64fury

Anyone have any experiance adjusting the shift cable on the 727? Mine is acting like the travel in the cable is too short, with the cable at is max travel and the shifter in L1, if you try to shift into Park you run out of cable about 1/4 too soon, same happens if you set it up in park and then go to L1, the shifter will come up 1/4 inch short of the L1 dent!

64fury

It's a floor shifter Doc!

64fury

i got side tracked with the mass of electrical gremlins and other distraction!

This tranny shift issue is a weird one, with it being a 64' I can't put a after market shifter in. I believe the issue is the shifter it's self, or the cable is the wrong length.

Everything lines up and underneath, I've had the pan off, and the rosster coomb meets up with the correct dents inside the tranny it's at the shifter end where things don't jive! But whats happening is with the cable all the way back you can't engage L1 it comes up less than 1/4 inch short of the dent, like the cable was too short. but if push the cable all the way forward with out making any adjustments, it won't hit park as the cable now appears to be too long!

I'm going to take another swing at it this week and will try to post a few pictures if I can!

64fury

No! The car is an original floor console car, only the sport furys had them in 64' the rest were push button. I ran the ID # on the tranny it is the original to the car was built as a floor shifter and had a 426 infront of it.

There is a kit I know of that will allow a 66' and up tranny to be converted over to push button, but not one that will convert a pre 66.

I think one of four things has happened

1. somewhere along the 44 year life of the tranny so far, someone put a push button valve body in the non-push button housing and tried to make it work with the factory floor shifter and cable. (maybe when they switched the 426 for the 383)

or 2. it's the wrong cable

or 3. at some point the shifter was replaced with a 66 or up unit with a longer throw.

or 4. I'm an idiot and don't know how to adjust the cable!

potions as i see them right now.

a. play with the shifter and cable some more to see if I can get things to mesh.

b. change out the valve body for a 64 non-pushbutton one and a new cable

c. try to find another 64' floor shifter and cable and change them out.

d. install a post 66 tranny and a B&M shifter and solve all the issues once and for all.

The last one may sound drastic but may be the cheapest in the long run.

64fury

When I had the pan off, and looking underneath the VB had two prongs that lined up with the NSS, one in park the other in Neutral. Although the NSS is the short single post type from a push button, the fact it does not make contact with the VB makes me think the VB ISN'T from a push button

64fury

It appears I'm not getting full cable travel, but cant figure out why?

64fury

Yeah I've got he console off at the moment, the cable dosn't appear to be going fully into the sleeve, the parking lock cable slides in all the way, but the shifter stops about 1/4" short.

64fury

Thats what I believe but I'm not 100% sure, all the non push button VB's I've seen have a third arm at the rear, something this one does not have.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...03482066fkVxGI

This link has a picture of a PB, then a Console and late model VB, as you can see mine really dosn't look 100% like any of them and is kinda halfway between the PB and console types!

64fury

This is the VB I 'should' have, as you can see the one I have also looks nothing like it!

64fury

Here http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html

64fury

Can anyone ID the year of the console shifter in the picture below?

I think I'm looking in the wrong place, not the VB but the shifter!

As you can see from the two pictures the dents on the shifter I have are spaced much wider apart than the those on the picture of the 64' which may account for some shifter issues I'm having!

My Shifter:

The other picture from the 1962 to 1965 mopar site:

64fury

Well I got a pair of correct shifter from e-bay, while they are different than the one that was in the car, they did not solve the issue.

Next I'm waiting on a new cable from Imperial Services, if this dosn't cure the issue I don't know what will?

The tranny has been ID as a 64' console shift unit, built in dec 63', the VB is also id as a 64' console shift unit, the shifter is from a 64' console shift. The tranny has been checked out by the local mopar guys and according to them the tranny is solid, it;s the shifter that was the issue, but installing the correft shifter hasn't solved anything!

BuckNeccid

Something else you can do is change the shift arm on the tranny. An arm with the hole closer to the body of the tranny will make the cable "seem" longer due to the angularity, and will shift farther with the same throw of the cable. If you want to do it on the shifter, you could dril another hole a little lower where the cable mounts.

Rooty

The Park cable you can do nothing with - it's length and travel are predermined. The shifter cable on the other hand is set at the tranny where it enters the case. Adjustment is very sensitive. Here's the exserp from the manual:
1- Place the selector lever in Park
2- Back the adjustment wheel off on the cable ( counter-clockwise) until two or three
threads are showing on the guide behind the wheel.
3- Lube the cable housing with tranny fluid, insert into the case, push inward on the cable making making sure the lock spring engages the cable.
4- Have an assistant hold shifter in 1 (low) position. Pull the cable outwards (about 2 pounds force) to bottom the assembly in the low detent. While holding the cable outward, turn the adjustment wheel clockwise until it just contacts the case squarely.
5-Turn the wheel counterclockwise just enough to make the next adjustment hole in the wheel line up with the screw hole in the case. Counting this hole as No. 1 continue rotating the wheel counter clockwise until the fifth hole lines up with the screw hole in the case.
6- Push the adjusting wheel and cable in tight against the case and install the screw
and tighten to 75 inch-pounds.

Done but you may find that due to cable stretch or newness a turn one way or the other may be needed. It is easiest to adjust with the pan off as you can verify the shifts on the rooster tail visually. This is something you do once so do it right. The seals and o-rings should be replaced less seepage occurs here and the hole in the case should be buffed using 1500 sand paper dipped in tranny fluid. If all else fails you can buy the complete shifter with cables from me as I use a B&M Quick Silver. Unfortunately you do not have this option as Park on yours is done via the second cable and you would require a newer tranny to get single cable shift and an internal parking pawl. On yours, passing gear only occurs with the pedal to the floor unlike newer trannys the kick down on part throttle. Never change shift arms from OE spec because the swing radius at the shifter matches the pivot radius at the tranny shifter lever.

kikgas01

It was fine and all at once, it just started doing this as well. 65 300, 383 4bbl, console shift. I know nothibg about these trannys and considering selling my nice car because of this issue

RacerHog

KIKGAS1..... Find a good old Mopar repair Dude to fix that problem.....
Buuuuuut... If you want to off that ride.... $500.00 you deliver and I'll take it....
Hope you get it fixed.... Those are nice rides.... I use to drive a 1967 Dodge Monaco 500....