Mr. Elmore

Yes I have a 1973 Dodge Charger 318. The front brakes are disk brakes and the back are drum brakes. I recently purchased the car and was told that the car had been sitting awhile. Despite the gas tank being messed up, it is running really well. It had shot breaks when I bought it, so I homed out the cylinders (in the break drum) and put new springs, anchors, shoes and pads on the drums. I also put a new master cylinder on the car. New rubber lines are on the car also, I SEE NO LEAKS AT ALL!! I have break pressure when the car is off, but when I turn the car on then I loose pressure, ( I have enough pressure to slowly go down a steep hill- ridding the brakes, but not stop on a dime).The break pedal is really spongy when the car is running, but gets tight when car is killed. (see brakes#2)

Mr. Elmore

I was doing the job with some one who claims to have a great deal of experience, but he does the brake bleeding when restoring breaks differently than what I'm used to. The way that I am used to bleeding breaks is to pump the pedal Three times and HOLD, while the man with the wrench turns the bleeder valve 1/4 inch FOR JUST A SECOND AND QUICKLY TIGHTEN THE VALVE; Then when the valve is tight, release break pedal pressure/ pump break 3 times, hold, quick turn on bleeder valve on the next tire. I repeat this method till I get a steady stream of fluid out of every valve within the quick turn of the bleeder valve. I usually finish the second time around the car and have never had a problem with any other car brakes.........(see brakes#3)

78D200

Sounds like you could have a bad brake booster. When you stop and the car is not running (after it has been running), the brakes are good again? If so, they I would look into the hose that pulls vacuum for the booster and go from there. I have seen the plastic elbow be the problem before as well.

78D200

I gravity bleed the brakes and go from there. If they still need bleeding, I tell the person "down", I crack the screw, let the air/fluid out, tighten it back up, tell them "up".

By pumping the brakes, you are working the air in the line back and forth causing far more air bubbles than are needed. It still works either way though.

Mr. Elmore

The older guy helping me with this says that you must SLOWLY pump the break pedal, and turn the valve (while the pedal is being pushed down) and wait for the fluid to come out before re-tightening, then repeat. (this didn't work!!!!) He told me the problem is something mechanical failing.///// I asked what the "donut thing"-that is behind the master cylinder and the device that is connected to the master cylinder was; And my help couldn't explain to me what these two things do to stop the car, but assured me that if I bought a new one of each that it would fix my problem!
PLEASE SOME ONE HELP, is my way to do breaks the correct way to bleed breaks or is this other way the right way. Our do we both have it wrong? Also what other components do I need to STOP LIKE A GOAT or do I just need to get new help????????

78D200

A person with the proper experiance would help.

Read your other threads about the brakes as I responded to them. (I also changed the color of your post due to how hard it was for me to read.)

There are multiple ways to bleed brakes. How you discribed it in the other thread and how I do mine are the most commonly used. Since it is your car, you should be doing it your way.

The "dounut thing" behind the master cylinder is a brake booster. It basically multiplies the amount of force that you apply to the pedal to the braking system since teh braking system that you have requires much more force than any human could apply (disc brakes require a lot of force).

Also, did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it into the car, or at least after you installed it? If not, that could be part of your problem.

sweeperking

78d200 is correct about bleeding the master cylinder, this is a must and has to be done first or you will get nowhere. As far as your brake booster goes, it could be an issue but worry about it later the brake bleeding is first. After the master cylinder is blead go to the wheel farest away from master cylinder (R/R) have a partner, one time push the brake pedel to the floor and hold. While on the floor crack open the bleeder screw momentarily and reseat. Slowly release brake pedal and reapply to the floor, again only one push and again when on the floor crack open bleeder and reseat. Do this multiple times per wheel till all air is gone (this may take awhile be patiant). The order to do it in is R/R L/R R/F L/F. After the brakes are blead and you got a firm pedal, check out the brake booster.You can do it two ways the easiest is put your foot on the brake pedal and hold, start the car, if the booster works you should feel the pedal go down slightly maybe an inch or so. Next would be to disconnect the vacuum line to the booster and connect a vacuum pump to it, pump it up to apply max vacuum and see if it holds, your checking for a leak in the diaphram here. Hopes this help alittle and if not well I practiced my typing just got to work on spelling (TeHe). Oh and by the way I have been doing the above brake bleeding procedure for about 30 years or so and it works on all (except ABS brakes, this procedure would NOT apply)

Scott-- (your friendly neighborhood sweeperking)

sweeperking

One thing I for got to mention above, while bleeding each wheel frequently check fluid level in the master cylinder and keep it full. If it runs out while bleeding you have to start over. If you have trouble getting a firm pedal while bleeding look for leaks.