My '73 Satellite Wagon has 89K -- still runs pretty nice. If it sits for more than 24 hours, it'll take 2-4 cranks before it'll start. Mechanic didn't see a starter issue, and the plugs are new. Anything else to try? I suppose I shouldn't complain -- it always starts -- but I can't imagine that's going to last for long with so much effort each time.

Hoody

 

Welcome to the old mechanical chokes. Nothing like an electric choke. My 81 Gran Fury is the same way. Just much more when it's cold outside.

 

There are several things that can be related

General state of tune, and our old friend "smog."

If you have the timing set to factory specs, investigate, well, "not." (setting it to factory specs) You'll need to investigate the advance curve that's in the distributor to make sure you don't end up OVER advanced, but usually, you can jack the initial timing up a bit. Fer 'xample, if the factory sticker shows zero or something ATDC, try bumping it up AT LEAST 5*

The choke thermostat may be so old it's just sort of worn out of calibration.

Make sure the choke linkage, ALL of it, from thermostat to choke butterfly is free of gum, rust, etc, and moves freely

Make sure the choke is set correctly as per the shop manual

Make sure the vacuum "pull off" works. That's easy, just get it running, and pull the hose off the pull off unit. You should see the plunger spring back out, and then pull back in when you reapply the hose.

(Personally, I still to this day prefer plain 'ol manual chokes, and have converted a number of carbs to them. Sometimes this means cutting/ soldering/ brazing parts and fittings to the old linkage, and having a good "junk box." I used to have a method of converting Quadrajets which left the choke sort of "spring loaded" on the cable, so that when it fired, it would pull open a bit. Ran that setup on the old Landcruiser/ 340 for quite a while)

Not so much initial start, but warm up and beyond, is the heat riser system. There's a thermostatic butterfly in the passenger side manifold, make sure it's free when cold, and the thermostat works. It should "spring" back and forth with your hand.

Not so obvious are the crossover passages in the heads and intake, which can and do!! become clogged with carbon, which hurts cold climate operation.

And the heat stove/ tubing and air cleaner snorkel heat.

But the above is right. I think some of us (and I'm old enough to know better) have become "used" to jumping into our "New" EFI rigs (my oldest is an 86 Ranger) twisting the key for 1/2 second, and !! it runs !!

Are you using the "correct procedure" to "set" the choke? (Floor the throttle once, let up) Next time around, try flooring it TWICE on colder days, which SHOULD send an extra shot of fuel from the accel. pump.

SPEAKING of which, make sure the carb is not "boiling dry" when parked.

So one day when you have time, and the car has set all night, BEFORE you try and start, CHECK the accel. pump. Remove the air filter, use a flashlight if necessary, and carefully block the choke open so you can see.

Give the throttle a punch, and LOOK and see if the pump is working. It should start the pump shot the INSTANT you move the throttle.

If not, well........then............