drive shaft and torque converter questions

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Old 11-06-2010 | 09:57 PM
  #1  
timmie124's Avatar
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drive shaft and torque converter questions

ive been slowly swapping out my 318 for a 383 in my 73 plymouth satellite
last weekend i bought a 727 that came off of a 440 and it came with a torque converter with the teeth on it and 2 weights. so i go to my local engine shop to get a flex plate, he handed me a flex plate with out anything cut out. I've always been told you need a special flex plate that's cut out so the engine stays balanced. He told me i don't need any weights for that engine because its internally balanced. is this true? and if so do i need to get another torque converter because mine has weights on it?

and also how long is the drive shaft supposed to be?
or how do you measure to get a drive shaft?
specs
383 with a 727 and a 8.25 rear end
ill have a 8.75 or a Dana 60 in the next week or so
Old 11-07-2010 | 12:23 AM
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Grind the weights off of the torque converter with a dremel... or something. Take your time and it doesn't take long.

The 383 has a forged steel crank and "is" internally balanced.

I learned this first hand myself when I installed a '77 Torqueflite to a '69 383 Magnum in my first '68 Fury III and I think that I just ground the spot weld and "gently" used a hammer and chisel to pop the weights off.

As far as the drive shaft.... The yoke on the Dana 60 will be set up for the large u-joints and your u-joints are probably the small units.

So, you will need to have your drive shaft modified or find a drive shaft.
I'm not sure how to tell you to measure but, I believe that any '71 and up B body with a 727 drive shaft, should work.

The 8 3/4" may come set up for the smaller u-joints and should lessen your problems.

What I would do, is slide the driveshaft that you have, into the new transmission to the point that the rear trans seal and the "clean" spot on the front yoke are even.

Then check the distance from the rear u-joint to the companion flange.

If you're short... measure the distance from the rear u-joint to the companion flange on the rear end.
Old 11-07-2010 | 12:56 AM
  #3  
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From: couer d' alene id.
i agree with silverick, no weights i grind them off with a 4" grinder and a thin cut blade,
Old 12-10-2010 | 12:24 AM
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440roadrunner's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Silverick

As far as the drive shaft.... The yoke on the Dana 60 will be set up for the large u-joints and your u-joints are probably the small units.

So, you will need to have your drive shaft modified or find a drive shaft.
You should not have to do this. I don't have the part no's anymore, but Precision and I'm sure others make conversion joints----two caps are small joint, two caps are large joint.

right here:

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/arch...p?t-51097.html
Old 12-10-2010 | 01:55 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by 440roadrunner
You should not have to do this. I don't have the part no's anymore, but Precision and I'm sure others make conversion joints----two caps are small joint, two caps are large joint.

right here:

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/arch...p?t-51097.html
Sounds like a cool item!
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