Electronic ignition vs. distributor and points

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Old 11-05-2008 | 11:06 AM
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Electronic ignition vs. distributor and points

Guys,

Thanks for all the great information on this site. What a huge help with growing my knowledge base of mopars. I am in the proccess of tuning up my 318. A friend reccomended electronic ignition. What are the benefits? Does it make a difference with a relatively stock 318?
Old 11-05-2008 | 01:23 PM
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well, with electronic ignition, you will get a better spark, which means more power.
points are easier to trouble shoot, but once you get the electronic ignition all working, they are way better.
Old 11-05-2008 | 01:54 PM
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good info. Is this something I can do in my garage with some working knowledge of motors, or do I need a professional with electronic experience to handle this? What are the better companies and products for this application? Thanks again.
-C
Attached Thumbnails Electronic ignition vs. distributor and points-october_2008_002.jpg  

Last edited by 68 Sat; 11-05-2008 at 02:04 PM.
Old 11-05-2008 | 03:11 PM
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If I had a choice, I would go electric ignition over points. BUT... The stock dizzys couples with an orange box, a good coil and set of wires will give just as good performance as a electric ignition setup.

The old system is eay to diag and easy to set up and add on to.

A electric ignition system is more reliable, better on start ups and has a little easier time staying set for advancements.

Down side of points is you need to adjust them and can be a pain to replace.

Downside to electric ign is diag can be a pain sometimes.

If it was up to me, with a stock motor, I would upgrade the points system to make it a little better. With a performance motor that I'd be driving a lot and except a lot from it, I would go with an electric ign. system.
Old 11-05-2008 | 05:51 PM
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not too substancial
normally, points on mopars had a 10000 volt coil
i have a 42000 volt coil
it gives you a few more horsepower
more of a burn
Old 11-06-2008 | 04:03 AM
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You can get a wire harness brand new from bill evans.814-864-2622. its 125.0 for a motor harness, its the correct color coded wires and its set up where it plugs right into your bulkhead , and its ready for el. ign. you can get the orange box, the coil, new style voltage reg, and ballaast resistor from summit racing 1-800-230-3030. just measure the distance from the bulkhead conn. to the spot where you want youre orange box and let him know this when you order the harness. ive used several of his harnesses and have never had a prob.good luck. also if your car is still the single field alt. you need to upgrade this as well and tell him for this provision also. as for your dist/ you can reubuild it using parts from napa and saave a bunch of . they want like 170.00 for 1 at summit. just order a new reluctor plate and new vacume pull off for elec. and tke the old plate and pull off out of the housing and change them over, the housings are the same. or have someone who knows whats going on to do it for you. you need to set the airgap on the reluctor wheel at .12 thousandths.
Old 11-07-2008 | 01:55 PM
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wow rr thanks for that guys number and 68 sat go with the EI as you live in a cold state as it does help in the winters on starting but if your not driving it in the cold , heck i would still go with the EI you will see better performance out of your engine
Old 11-07-2008 | 05:01 PM
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once again you guys have been great. I just got the car back from the shop today. All tuned up and ready to go. Shes runnin like a charm.Thanks for all the great info.
Old 11-07-2008 | 08:07 PM
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what kind of oil are you running in it?
Old 11-09-2008 | 06:37 PM
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my friend and mechanic for 30 + years assures me that I do not need an oil with a zinc additive. If it makes a difference the engine had a major overhaul in 2003 which included hardened valve seats, cylinder head work, and a number of other things to ensure conventional oil would be ok. With that said I did toil over this decision after reading about the problems with conventional oil.
Old 11-10-2008 | 02:51 AM
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The zinc has nothing to do with the valves or head work. It's there to protect the cam. The spring pressure pushing the lifters against it have been wiping out cam lobes since the reduction of ZDDP additive. If you're using a roller cam, you're fine, if you wipe a cam, talk to your mechanic.
Old 11-10-2008 | 08:47 PM
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exactly
listen to BuckNeccid, and it happened to me with the cam


gergefla, does it stall when you rev it?
Old 11-11-2008 | 07:05 AM
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Does it stall if it just sits there with no interaction by you? Or can you drive it around and then it just stalls?
Old 11-11-2008 | 10:32 AM
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BuckNeccid,

I picked up some redline zinc additive today. I'm not taking any chances. Thanks
Old 11-11-2008 | 11:05 AM
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I just run Rotella T
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