Ok so I have a 1966 charger 383 and it has been sitting 30 years. It ran when it was parked. And ideas of what I should do to get it started. I've got this do far. Change oil. Fresh gas in a clean pale instead of gas tank. Soak carb. 1 tsp of oil in each cyl. Cycle the oil through the engine (idk how).

 

Put a big socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt and see if it will turn over by hand first. If not shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and then try it again the next day. If it won't turn over by hand then it won't with the starter.

 

Why a socket and not just my hand?

 

Cause it ain't going to happen with your hand.

 

The only difference between what Brem says and me is I'd put some sort of oil, ATF, Marvel, or even engine oil in the cylinders BEFORE you try and do anything. Don't go overboard, and when you get it turning over, spin it with the plugs out on the starter to expell as much of the oil as you can.

What have you done about ignition?

 

So it's safe to try and start it if it turns over and after I put oil in the cylinders and turn it over without plugs? Or should I do that then drain all oil and do a oil change. I Heard the oil I put in the cyl would contaminate the fresh oil. I just want to avoid a dry start.

 

Also would a half shot glass full of marvel in each spark plug hole do? And then fresh gas not out of the fuel tank of coarse. Fresh plugs. Soak the carb. Change the fuel filter, change oil,Fire it up ?

 

MY procedure on resurrection of a 'barn' find.


Do as was suggested with the oil in cyls Then:

1. with good known battery installed, turn key to run, and check for voltage to the coil/dist. Check points to make sure they arent 'stuck'.
2.hopefully you have a helper to help watch things as you proceed, but if not thats ok also. Check Trans fluid for fluid on the stick. reading doesnt matter at this point just so it has a reading on stick
3.spin engine with starter now, plugs out for easier cranking, and to spit the oil out of cyls, also helper can verfiy everything is turning that should be ie water pump alt power steering pump, and can also verifiy it has spark.Crank until the oil pressure gauge has a reading or the light flickers and goes out. (that makes sure you have gotten the oil circuit 'primed')
4. Re-install plugs, check for coolant and top off, If you had spark continue on if not find out why not.
5. I would 'prime' the carb by dribbling about 3 oz of gas into the vent tube of the carb, to help it start faster. (who knows after this time the fuel pump may not pump)
6. Start engine, and dont rev it. let it idle as best as it will to let it pump up the lifters circulate the oil and water to start warming .
7 After making sure you have water circulation let it idle for appx 5 minutes during that time check the trans fluid, top off if necessary, but dont let it run more than 10 minutes at first.
8. let it set for appx 10 minutes to do a 'heat soak' cycle aqnd restart, pay close attention for water circulation and any water leakage from ANYWHERE. Freeze plugs WILL an DO rust thru setting for so long. check all other fluid levels looking for leaks
9. you can now do a slow rev but not a redline rev just a git along rev still watching for leaks. ie hoses, t-stat housing, power steering hoses/seals, oil leaks from pump filter area.
10. Do what is now necessary to enjoy driving your 66 and to work out the 30 year in the making gremlins that will pop up.

 

I hate to oppose ya brem but it IS possible to 'break' one lose with the starter... Ask me how I know?

 

Any tips to not getting electrocuted? I've had it happen one too many times on these old engines.

 

Excuse me I'll be right back, I have to go 'break one loose'!

 

Hmmm eletroshooted huh? Stay away from the secondary side of the ignition system. lol j/k I re-read my post and I see that I didnt say HOW to verify voltage to coil/points. Test light in hand clip on - (neg) battery touch the probe to the + side of coil should have light. (or test with meter if thats what you have) but remember in RUN you wont have a full 12v probably in the 8-9.5v range, due to the ballast resistor. Turn off key, remove dist cap, check that the points are OPEN, if not you may be able to rotate the rotor enough against the advance to open them, or if not rotate the engine slightly by hand until points open. Turn on key again touch probe to the opened side of the points. (outer part of points) you have light/voltage, good replace rotor if removed and the cap. THEN pull the center wire (coil wire in the middle of cap) and place it on a good grounded surface. ie intake valve cover etc. You may have to twist the wire some coming out of the coil for it to "lay" just right then proceed as I outlined above. This is the "verifying for spark" part of #3.... If you have cranked it as i stated and you are getting spark put the coil wire back in the cap least you forget for the initial "fire in the hole". BTW if you arent getting any juice to the places that I said to check then STOP and report back. Maybe we can get it corrected so you can continue if unsure how to trouble shoot.

 

I sure wish 440roadrunner would chime in about now.... LOL!!!