Mopar Forums - Installing stock replacement leafs....which holes do I use?

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Installing stock replacement leafs....which holes do I use?

Which front mounting holes were used in the stock configuration?

Also, I have an adjustable snubber and even on the lowest setting, it appears to be touching :think:

How far does it need to be wheels down?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER (Post 100626)

The upper holes from your post. If the snubber is touching you can always go with the regular snubber. I still haven't looked at a 68 b body but I think yours are further back than stock. Hopefully someone can take a look or post pictures of the stock ones from a 68/69 be body to compare.

This is the factory snubber from an 8 3/4 chunk out of my '68 Charger. I see them pretty regularly on ebay.

If I remember from a previous post your front spring hangers look aftermarket to me. The factory ones only have one mounting hole; with the ones you have I'd use the top hole.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moparod (Post 100635)

This is the factory snubber from an 8 3/4 chunk out of my '68 Charger. I see them pretty regularly on ebay.

Even on the lowest setting my current adjustable snubber is still much taller than that :o

Quote:

If I remember from a previous post your front spring hangers look aftermarket to me. The factory ones only have one mounting hole; with the ones you have I'd use the top hole.

I picked up new front mounts for the stock replacement springs as the mounts for the Super Stock leafs are set back 2 inches and will not work.

I tried the upper holes on the new mounts, but it's too low, so I'll be relocating them to the lower hole in the morning.

The height you see in these photos is with all the weight sitting on the pinion snubber :o

With the snubber removed completely, it actually sits about 1.5-2" lower (too low)

I'm jealous of your shop, and the fact that it's warm enough to leave the overhead door open.

I dont suppose you could post a picture of the snubber and the underside of the car where the snubber comes into contact? Something doesnt sound right.

Factory normal snubbers only come into contact with the stop under the seat when the car is almost dragging the gas tank on the ground.

Factory raised snubber at lowest position would leave the car sitting low in the back end but not dragging on the ground.

The raised adjustable snubber with the car at normal height in the rear should bang on the bracket under sudden load. Like 3000 rpm cold starts.

The normal snubber is there to prevent the gas tank from dragging on the ground in the even of a spring failure.

One of the things you will almost never see is the paint on the underside of seat where the rubber bumper comes into contact even on the r/t cars because its not close enough to do so. Anyone who claims to hit bang the snubber on a regular snubber car either has broken or sagged out springs or an engine in the trunk of the car as it just wont happen.

Like I said something is fishy here seriously. Of course if the snubber you have is customized and sits higher than 3 inches from base of plate to top of rubber at it's lowest setting that is a different story. Dont forget the back end of the car goes up and down quite a bit with just a half in difference on the height of the snubber.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacilynn_s (Post 100658)

I dont suppose you could post a picture of the snubber and the underside of the car where the snubber comes into contact? Something doesnt sound right.

Here's a shot of the adjustable snubber on the lowest setting

http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...berrubbin1.jpg

I put some grease on it so you can see the contact point

http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...berrubbin2.jpg
http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...berrubbin3.jpg
http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...berrubbin4.jpg

Quote:

Factory normal snubbers only come into contact with the stop under the seat when the car is almost dragging the gas tank on the ground.

Factory raised snubber at lowest position would leave the car sitting low in the back end but not dragging on the ground.

The raised adjustable snubber with the car at normal height in the rear should bang on the bracket under sudden load. Like 3000 rpm cold starts.

The normal snubber is there to prevent the gas tank from dragging on the ground in the even of a spring failure.

One of the things you will almost never see is the paint on the underside of seat where the rubber bumper comes into contact even on the r/t cars because its not close enough to do so. Anyone who claims to hit bang the snubber on a regular snubber car either has broken or sagged out springs or an engine in the trunk of the car as it just wont happen.

Like I said something is fishy here seriously. Of course if the snubber you have is customized and sits higher than 3 inches from base of plate to top of rubber at it's lowest setting that is a different story. Dont forget the back end of the car goes up and down quite a bit with just a half in difference on the height of the snubber.

Umm, as far as I know, the snubber is there to prevent axle wrap under hard acceleration (much like standard traction bars, only using the body instead of the front of the leafs to stop it from wrapping)

I've never heard of it being there to prevent the tank from dragging in the event of a spring failure, but I guess it couldn't hurt :think:

Anyways, I'm pretty sure I'm on the right track.....

Last night, I had mounted the new springs on the upper mounting holes.

Measured from the lip of the quarter to the center of the hub and came up with ~12 inches.

Thing is, this was with the pinion snubber in place.

After removing the snubber, I measured again and it dropped about 1.5-2 inches, meaning all the weight was sitting on the snubber (not good)

So, this morning I relocated the springs to the lower mounting holes and measured again with the snubber off and came up with ~12 inches.

Then I mounted the snubber with grease, measured again and the height remained at ~12 inches, so at least all the weight isn't resting on the snubber, however, after putting her back up in the air, it was clear the snubber was still making contact (as shown in the photo above).

I figure after I get a new stock snubber, I should be in the clear :cool:

I was actually thinking about cutting of the square receiver tube on the adjustable snubber mount, then just drilling a hole for the snubber bushing, but I figure I can include it in the package when I sell the super stock springs :rolleyes:

Snubbers are NOT hard to find just get another one.

I know most people think that its only a torque thing but I got chewed out on that before by someone I respect. There is rubbers above the axle in the wheelhouse on frame too but the axle tends to rest on the snubber first. Need an example go look at a dart that rotted out (common problem as the springs come through the trunk floor.) there is about 4 inches of clearance between the gas tank and hte ground as the rear end rests solely on the pinion snubber. Its why they made the extended ones for cars that torqued.

Look at it another way. Why would Chrysler put a pinion snubber on a 7 1/4 in a dart with a slant 6? Why did the trucks not have one?

From your pic the tubing looks well too thick so I think its an after market one. I said earlier that the original ones were thin tubing. If you want to know how thin go look at the square tubing on a stop sign. But that could be the angle of the picture.

Installed and OEM snubber today :)

http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...onSnubber1.jpg
http://www.fuelslut.net/ihost/files/...onSnubber2.jpg

I put some grease on the OEM snubber to see if it makes any contact at all.

Ride is much softer now :cool:

That being said, I do find it easier to spin the tires now, so getting out of the hole isn't as quick as before :o

The problem is that snubber is meant to be used with the super stock springs I used one on my 67 but I cut most of the rubber cushion off