So I recently picked up a '69 Road Runner

Don't know much about Mopars as the only thing I've ever owned that was powered by Chrysler was my 440 Drag Boat



Anyways, here's a short video of the new Runner




Now, a bunch of questions:


1) How can I tell if it's a real RR or a clone?
Not that it really matters as it isn't numbers matching.

2) What is the original wheel and tire size?
She currently has 14's up front and 15's out back with a wide backspacing.
I'd like to go with Red Lines all around for daily driving, then throw these on for strip time.

3) What is the correct ride height for the front end?
It was deep in the weeds when I got it, but I cranked it up to where it now measures ~17.5" from the lip of the fender to the center hub.

4) Where's the best place to get original or reproduction parts?
I currently need a matching mirror for the passenger side (I don't care if it didn't come with one, I NEED it), RR door emblems, a matching pentastar for the fender, a driver's side armrest and a bolt/spinner nut for the driver's side quarter glass.

5) Where can I get a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster?
As she sits, the only thing that works on the cluster is the voltmeter.

6) What is the smallest alternator pulley available?
It currently has a March pulley setup that just won't charge at idle and won't begin to charge until 2000+ rpm's.

7) Where can I get a set of original rear leaf springs?
Right now she's sporting a set of super stock springs (according to the PO) and her **** is just way too jacked.
Looking for a more level ride height (or whatever it was stock)

 

Some photos of the RR


Before (stinkbug):





After (4x4):








I'll have to work on getting a new set of stock leafs, then I can bring her back down to Earth and throw some redlines on her


Motor shot:

 

whats the VIN?

 

RM21H9A13xxxx

 

Its a real RR.

If it's a real RR the first 2 letters of the VIN will be RM.

RM = Road Runner
RS = GTX

If it's not RM or RS its just a Satellite or Belvedere.

As far as the ride height and tire size I don't know. But I'm sure some of these guys on here will know.

Ebay is always a good place to look for parts and probably going to be your best bet on the lowest price. Craigslist... always keep an eye on craigslist. If you don't mind driving a bit go to adhuntr.com it searches craigslist but searches every place in the USA at the same time. It's a really useful site if you don't mind driving. And as hard as a lot of these mopar parts are to find your probably not going to get 50 million results.

As far as the wiring diagram goes call a few mechanics, they usually have a program that they use to print out wiring diagrams for when they need them. You may have to offer to buy it from them.

On the alternator pulley, a new alternator usually comes with a pulley. And there is a possibility the alternator is bad if you haven't had it checked already. Parts house can check it for you.

Leaf springs... again ebay. Or look on craigslist.

Looks like a really nice car you've got. Congrats on it.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the info

Looks like she's the real deal (RM), although, she was originally a 383 car.

I guess I should hit up Mopar Matt for parts as he has a ton of Mopars (as well as my old boat)


As for the diagram, I just found this buried in the stack of receipts

 

Are you responsible for the videos? Cause honestly I can't watch them with the horrible music going and I would actually like to hear the road and music of the engine.

The rear leaf springs usually have a total of 4 leaves the bottom two being used only under load. Most people jack up the rear via custom shackles in the rear. How long are the rear shackles?

On the back side of the dash is a voltage regulator. It plugs into the circuit board with three wide prongs on it. There is a site on the internet that shows how to put a resistor and a 7812 voltage regulator into one of these. 9 times out of 10 there is a melted wire back there from the fuse box which has a separate circuit supplying power or the pins are broken on the circuit board.

I have no idea what radiator is in there along with the customization of the engine compartment including the engine and drivetrain.

 

Yes

Sorry, but you'll have to turn the volume down for now.

Without the music, all you'd hear is the sound of flip flops and me heavily breathing and drooling over Matt's cars.

As for the second video, you'd get nothing but wind noise and the loud tick of a bad header gasket leak as noted in the description

Once I get things sorted out, I'll have proper sound.

Besides, Buckethead Rocks!!



I count 6 leafs and the shackles measure about ~4" from bolt to bolt.

Kinda hard to see, but they're pressed up against the chassis.






Good to know.

I'll mess around with it when I get back to the shop next week.


It has a Northern Aluminum radiator and needs a fan shroud (flex fan), but I'll have to measure it cause it looks pretty thick.

So far, the AutoGage temp gauge mounted under the dash hasn't gone past 185* even after idling for a while during midday heat, so I'm a bit skeptical

BTW, do these cars have an idiot light along with the stock temp gauge?

 

I would check with Dave AT Roseville Chrysler in Mi, he restores cars at the dealership & has a huge inventory or parts , good quality & pricing & great to deal with .

 

You definitely have the SS springs. I had them on my Cuda and it sat the same way. Rode so stiff seemed like the only suspension it had was the air in the tires. Mine was an old drag car, yours probably too. Stock springs are readily available, a buddy got mine for me through the dealer he works at.

 

Yes they do have an idiot light for oil. As for the springs remove a leaf see how it sits. Worse case you can order new sets from year one at a dodge dealer.

I have to ask what is that on the gas tank? From the pic it looks like a long tube of some sort that runs underneath.

 

Yeah, I'll most likely pick up a new set if they're not too pricey.

My plan is to run stock redlines, but will I be able to slap on the Mickeys for strip time with the stock ride height? (29x12.5)

You mean the fuel line?

 

fuel line should be from the front of the gas tank. The thing in picture went to the underside with a big patch of some sort on the tank. looks to be about 1/2 - 3/4 inch line. If that is a fuel line I would suggest replacing the gas tank with a new one and running the original 5/16 or 3/8 steel line along the frame up to the pump. Rubber or braided lines underneath a car don't last long from the road dust sandblasting them.

Two advantages. One line is less prone to damage tucked up against the car. And two your gas guage will work properly.

Note making the 3/8 fuel lines for these is a royal pain and requires really good tubing benders.

 

The tank has been modified for drag use (common with pro-street cars)

The idea is that it lets you run a minimum amount of gas while siphoning from the rear of the tank where all the gas would go when you floor it

It also has a drain plug which is pretty neat.

My biggest gripe with this (apart from being obvious to anyone driving behind you) is the use of rubber fuel hose

Not at all worried about the outside getting sandblasted, I'm actually more worried about the inside failing due to today's $h!tty ethanol fuel

Also, the fuel pump and giant filter take up quite a bit of space on the right side.

I might relocate them because I'd like to run over the axle tailpipes instead of the dumps before the axle.

 

Interesting. The street racers Ive seen don't put the hose underneath. They do run a tank in the trunk though. Not my thing really. I get the idea. I prefer stock myself.

@Moparted not sure what your on about but if it's in reference to fuel lines you should do some checking before insulting others. The hp factory cars came with 3/8 fuel lines along with the 3/8 sending unit.

 

The majority of the serious street racers around here either run a cell or a sump similar to what I have along with an external pump.

I prefer the stock look myself, but it doesn't really bother me that much since it's already done

Anyways, I got a request to make a video showing how the Hurst Pro-Matic shifter works, so here's one I threw together yesterday

 

I have a ProMatic2 in my '36. I swapped the ball for a T handle. I'm not running a manual valve body, just using it as a regular automatic shifter. Need to fab a new cover for since the one it came with is too wide for the hump. I was major pizzed when it arrived, frigging thing was made in China...

 

Some footage from last week.


Nuthin fancy, just driving around wasting gas.

As you can see from the quarter panel cam, the tire is fubar'd from spinning on the rim and bunching up the tube