Valve Seals-440-Rookie
 

As the name suggests, I'm quite new to this.
My Dad and I bought a 69 Charger 2 years ago. 440, 13:1 comp,570hp, 727TQFLT
We started by adding disk brakes, and replaced the battery,then,replaced the fusible link (after blowing it)
We changed the oil, and here we are now.
It took alot of time to start it last summer, so My friend and I checked the plugs. They were wet with oil. We cleaned em up, sanded the gap between the plug and the other end of the arc thingy (give me some slack). it started up.
We then went under further investigation, to find that one of the plug cables had been partially burned through, from contact with a header. I took electricians tape, and wrapped it. Then we looked under the mat in the trunk, and found a TON of rust.
I took it to a much more experienced friend of mine, and he told me I needed new valve seals.

I was wondering, how to change valve seals. And if you spotted anything shaky with the story, please speak up! all experience and knowledge, is highly appreciated, Thank You!

Better let someone with exp fix it.

Valve seals are not difficult but I'm not a big fan of replacing parts to try and fix something. It can be a costly habit. Its not difficult but can be labor intensive to fix. Sounds like you already tackled some stuff that others wouldnt do, so try this fix too. Worst case scenario is you tow it to someone to fix and all you are out of is your time. I took my old mans intake off when I was a kid to fix a lifter and screwed it up. Towed it to the garage and the old timer there made me fix it after school and showed me how to do it. :duck: Then I was hooked.

I would make sure the seals are leaking first and I'm not sure you are there yet. Plus although seals will cause smoking issues and other problems the car should start.

The seals sit on top off the guide under the valve covers and you need to remove the retainer and lock on the spring. You also need to keep the valve from falling into the engine. The latter can be accomplished with stuffing rope into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole or using compressed air into the spark plug hole. Make sure the valves are closed or the air will come right out.

If a car sits for an extended period of time and the plugs are wet I would look at the carb first. The hard starting was clue. Often the bowls stays full with fuel at shut down and the gaskets can degrade causing fuel to fall into the intake and down into the chamber to the cylinders.

Make sure the plugs aren't wet from fuel puddling.

Next: Get it running. If the seals are bad she should smoke as the oil is sucked into the combustion process and burned uncleanly leaving grey blue smoke out of the tailpipe. Fuel is black / dark when unburned. The colors are not absolute as condensation and atmosphere effects color slightly but its a good guide. Water is white (steam).

Also bad valve seals will cause an intermittent puff of air out of the tailpipe due to failed total combustion. Its tough to hear but its there.

If this doesn't diagnose it for you try to PM coronet500. He has jedi powers when it comes to DIY diagnostic stuff.

Replace the burned wire. No tape on wires. Use wire ties to keep them away from the headers and try not to let wires touch one another. Remember wires carry electricity and electricity will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. Tape is a roadside fix at best. They make spark plug sleeve for tight fit applications that is burn proof. Get a new set. Keep the old set around for when you burn another one. I keep the longest plug wire in the set in my repair kit.