1969 Chrysler Newport
#1
1969 Chrysler Newport
hi all..
I have a stock, 48,000 original miles 1969 Chrysler Newport with a 383 V8 2bbl carb. Not planning to make it a racer but I'd like to do a few power mods to it starting with the carburetor & manifold and was wondering if I can go as high as 750 cfm with the 4bbl carb or should I go no higher than 600cfm?
Eventually will install headers and performance exhaust, maybe even performance cams too.
I have a stock, 48,000 original miles 1969 Chrysler Newport with a 383 V8 2bbl carb. Not planning to make it a racer but I'd like to do a few power mods to it starting with the carburetor & manifold and was wondering if I can go as high as 750 cfm with the 4bbl carb or should I go no higher than 600cfm?
Eventually will install headers and performance exhaust, maybe even performance cams too.
#2
Welcome. 750 is on the high end for a 383 although it really depends on what type of carb. Spread bore, vacum secondaries things like that. Chrysler put alot of that size carb on even smaller displacement engines, the Thermo-Quad. Your future camshaft should play a big part of the selection process. How is your camshaft knowledge? Do you have any preference, Holley, Ed or Carter.
#3
thank you..
part of the reason I purchased this car was I wanted to learn how to work on them so I am a beginner. I have my eyes on Mopar Performance B/RB Hydraulic Camshafts (part #P5007697). I'll be going with Edelbrock carb & matching intake manifold.
part of the reason I purchased this car was I wanted to learn how to work on them so I am a beginner. I have my eyes on Mopar Performance B/RB Hydraulic Camshafts (part #P5007697). I'll be going with Edelbrock carb & matching intake manifold.
#4
If that's the 284,484 it's WAY to big for your car. You'll have no power brakes, terrible fuel mileage and driveability and it will be a dog out of the hole. Have a look at Comp Cams Camquest6 program, fool with that and have a look at some of their tech articles.
#5
How do you know the cars actually has only 48,000 miles? These cars odometers only went to the 10's of thousands and can look really good at 148,000 if taken care of . There are ways to verify mileage. First big tell is the break pedal. It will have signs of wear on the right side . As most people slide their foot off the pedal. Not calling you a lier just some folks don't know these older cars and you said you had no expierence with them.
Now down to brass tacks. Nobody mentioned this so I will throw it out there.
Don't forget the exhaust. Best place to start if in my opinion. A good carb and cam will do little if the motor can't expell the fumes. Headers are hard to get into a c-body but HP manifolds offer a great compromise on a street car. Even just putting a good 2" dual system on there would be an improvement. I usually start with the exhaust and then move on to the motor. First a complete tune up, just to get a base line. You might be surprised how much difference this can make. I would recomend a good valve job and shave of the heads to start. The stock trans and rear should be fine. If this is just a toy and not a daily driver, then rear gears and torque converter can be swapped for better take off from a start. This will however make high way cruising less fun as the motor will spin at a much higher rpm. Remember these are heavy cars and torque is more important than high rpm horse power. A good R.V. style cam would be a better choice. I would call a cam company and tell 'em exactly what you have and what your intensions are. They will be happy to set you up with what you need. Make sure to get thelifters, valve springs, and a new chain to go with the new cam. Have fun and enjoy that big barge. Might want to go to the c-body dry dock web site as well, they are c-body specific, and a great bunch of guys, just like here.
Now down to brass tacks. Nobody mentioned this so I will throw it out there.
Don't forget the exhaust. Best place to start if in my opinion. A good carb and cam will do little if the motor can't expell the fumes. Headers are hard to get into a c-body but HP manifolds offer a great compromise on a street car. Even just putting a good 2" dual system on there would be an improvement. I usually start with the exhaust and then move on to the motor. First a complete tune up, just to get a base line. You might be surprised how much difference this can make. I would recomend a good valve job and shave of the heads to start. The stock trans and rear should be fine. If this is just a toy and not a daily driver, then rear gears and torque converter can be swapped for better take off from a start. This will however make high way cruising less fun as the motor will spin at a much higher rpm. Remember these are heavy cars and torque is more important than high rpm horse power. A good R.V. style cam would be a better choice. I would call a cam company and tell 'em exactly what you have and what your intensions are. They will be happy to set you up with what you need. Make sure to get thelifters, valve springs, and a new chain to go with the new cam. Have fun and enjoy that big barge. Might want to go to the c-body dry dock web site as well, they are c-body specific, and a great bunch of guys, just like here.
Last edited by bboogieart; 07-11-2011 at 09:23 AM.
#6
thanks for the suggestions... the car is definitely original as can be with low miles, I purchased it from an estate sale, the orginal owner passed last year she was 97. She purchased the car new in 1969 but she got sick when she was in her 70's & could no longer drive. She stopped driving and left her car in her garage, never cranked since 1985!
#7
thanks for the suggestions... the car is definitely original as can be with low miles, I purchased it from an estate sale, the orginal owner passed last year she was 97. She purchased the car new in 1969 but she got sick when she was in her 70's & could no longer drive. She stopped driving and left her car in her garage, never cranked since 1985!
ics:ics::welcome2:ics:
#9
Found my 70' Newport much in the same way. Belonged to an old lady who bought it new from a Chrysler dealership in Brooklyn NY in 1970. She owned it until passing away last yr., then I scooped it up...with 62K miles on it. And the brake pedal looked good enough to eat off.
#10
You could really wake up that 383 with a MILD cam meant for low-to-mid-range torque, a nice carb (any company, really), headers and a true dual exhaust, if it doesn’t have it already. If you want a great big cam so the car lopes and all that, you’ve got to do some pretty major head work and, as mentioned, everything will suffer.
You’d be surprised what just a few hop-ups and a GOOD tuning will do.
You’d be surprised what just a few hop-ups and a GOOD tuning will do.
#11
You could really wake up that 383 with a MILD cam meant for low-to-mid-range torque, a nice carb (any company, really), headers and a true dual exhaust, if it doesn’t have it already. If you want a great big cam so the car lopes and all that, you’ve got to do some pretty major head work and, as mentioned, everything will suffer.
You’d be surprised what just a few hop-ups and a GOOD tuning will do.
You’d be surprised what just a few hop-ups and a GOOD tuning will do.
#13
69 newport
I have a 69 newport 383 i put 3 inc daul exhaust perfomance manifold and 650 edlebrock the car defenitly kicks for 4,000 pound plus car i bought of old man with 70,000 miles i 31,000 miles since i bought in 07 i can tell you its been an awesome ride its shame i'am selling my baby for more new toys. 383 and 727 are buliet proof
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Boompy
C-Body
11
02-13-2014 07:15 PM
Boompy
Part(s) Wanted
3
02-06-2014 02:53 PM