1969 Fury III, 318 2 bbl-727, have replaced everything from the starter to the ignition switch & i get nothing but a loud click from the starter when i try to start it...the starter cranks when i jump the 'ign' post on the relay to the 'sol' post...do i need to use an aftermarket starter button-type switch to solve this, it seems like a problem with the bulkhead connection. Any help is surely appreciated!

 

Here is how Mopar starting systems work:

The neutral safety switch is integrated with the firewall/ fender mounted starter relay:



Mountings vary to a minor degree, and standard shift cars had only one "push on" connector before the advent of clutch safety switches in '70

The big stud is a battery junction point, and one of the relay contacts.

The big square screw terminal is the other contact, goes down to the starter solenoid via a no12 or so wire

The two "push on" terminals are the relay coil, do not matter which is which

So any auto car, or any car with a clutch safety switch, has TWO push on terminals

The ignition switch has a "start" switch, traditionally YELLOW, comes off the switch, through the bulkhead, and to one of the "push on" terminals.

The other "push on" terminal goes down to the neutral safety switch on the trans, and is GROUNDED when in park or neutral.

1 So we know the starter works

2 The wire may be bad from the starter up to the relay. This does happen, vibration breaks the wire internally at the starter. So locate the relay pictured above, and use a screwdriver to short the "big stud" and the exposed "square" terminal. If the starter cranks, the wire is OK

3 Now see if the starter relay works, and if the neutral safety switch is good/ bad. First, hold the key to start while wiggling the lever in park. Next, shift to neutral and wiggle the lever a little Any noise from the starter means the switch is bad, the shift linkage out of adjustment, or the "comb" inside the trans is damaged, OR the connector / wiring to the switch is broke

4 Next, unhook the wire going down to the transmission from the relay, one of the two push on connectors (the relay terminals are interchangable) That is, you have the (typically) yellow from the bulkhead and the other wire going down. If you have trouble identifying the yellow, unhook BOTH "push on" wires, hook your test lamp to one, then the other, and see which one lights when the key is twisted to "start."

After you identify the "start" wire, hook back to the relay, disconnect the other, which goes to the trans.

NOW take a clip lead and clip the disconnected "push on" terminal ON the relay to ground.

See if the starter cranks with the key. If so, you have neutral safety switch troubles

If not, take your test lamp and connect to the yellow start wire, WHILE LEAVING it on the relay. Good to have an assistant. Twist the key to start. You should have a nice bright bulb, and you should hear the start relay click. You may not hear it inside the car.

If you get a nice bright light, double check the relay by moving your light to the "square" terminal--the one with the no12 or so wire which goes down to the solenoid.

Twist the key again and see if you get a good light.

If not, replace the starter relay.

If you do NOT get a nice bright lamp above, you have a bad connection in the bulkhead, a bad connection at the IGN switch, or the switch is bad.

 

Many thanks for the extensive diagnostic help. Turns out that it is surely a bad connection at the bulkhead, as i installed a simple 2-wire button switch between the 'IGN' & the 'SOL' posts on the relay & with the ignition swith at the ON postion, she cranks right over & starts with a push of the button switch.
A suitable temporary fix while we sort out the bulkhead wiring gremlin, as the pushbutton is hideous & no way will I drill a huge hole in the dash for mounting
Again, thanks for steering me on course to solve this!

 

You're welcome, post back with progress and test results, we'll help step you through this.

More and more, bulkhead connectors are getting to be a BIG problem on these old girls

Here's a good article on the subject

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

 

'69 Fury III is being repainted on Monday in original Bronze Fire after 6 weeks in the resto shop- will post some photos soon

 

Fusible link?

 

I recently had to replace the fusible link in my 70' Chrysler as it melted when a wire under the hood shorted out. No vendors make this part (that I could find) so had to make it from scratch. Big pain in the *** but after everything was done it was well worth the trouble.

 

go to advance auto, ask for parts from Dorman. they have fuseable links.