My Plymouth Fury as Daily driver?
03-22-2013, 09:48 PM
#1
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
My Plymouth Fury as Daily driver?
Hi everyone
I've a Plymouth Fury 1974 V8 360 and I was thinking this could be a great daily driver but the car has been sitting for about ten years but usually some weeks the last owner drive it for a couple minutes. What I should consider to use it as my daily driver car?
Thanks
I've a Plymouth Fury 1974 V8 360 and I was thinking this could be a great daily driver but the car has been sitting for about ten years but usually some weeks the last owner drive it for a couple minutes. What I should consider to use it as my daily driver car?
Thanks
03-23-2013, 04:41 AM
#3
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Hi! I want my plymouth as my daily driver because is too much comfortable and I like too much this car, is beautiful. I don't worry about the gas mileage of the 360 V8 but I want to know what should I check in the car before to start using it as a daily driver
03-23-2013, 08:00 AM
#5
2 check lots actually.
Front end, lubricate the hood hinges, rollers for the hood springs, hood latch.
check the ball joints both upper and lower for play or wear. Remove, clean and then grease the wheel bearings.
Check the brake calipers if they are stiff going in or the rubbers on them look damages replace.
Check brake hoses for cracks. If cracked replace.
Check brake lines for rust. If just light coating of rust thats fine if they look thick with rust replace.
Drain radiator and block of antifreeze. There is two plugs just above the engine crossmember that have a 9/16 head. Remove these to drain the block. FLush with water. While your at it flush out the heater core by removing the hoses from the front of the block that go to the firewall. Flush back and forth till clean. While your under the car check the frost plugs on the side of the block they should appear smooth with no bumps or rust pits. If rusty or pitted replace now.
Checking the fan belts and power steering belts. There should be no cracks. If cracked replace dont risk it.
360 is probably a 2 barrel holley carb. These are pretty much not rebuildable because of the power valve in the bottom that is NOT available. Replace with a carter 1 1/2 BBd carb as it bolts right on.
The thermostate housing is aluminum unless someone replaced it. They leak. Get the cast iron one from parts place. Its $20 and trust me it saves a major headache. For summer use a 180 thermostat Winter 195.
Check rad hoses if they are bulged from oil replace dont risk it.
Check rad near the bottom of rad touch the fins with your fingers if they distigrate bring rad in to get recored. Yes you can get a cheap replacement aluminum rad but the copper 2 core is better just dont let them paint it. Bring it home to paint with a gloss black enamel.
Look at the steering box. If the underside is leaking there is a seal kit available to fix that. You have to remove the pitman arm with a special puller. You cannot just impact the puller to remove it will snap apart you have to actually tighten and tap the pitman arm to get it off. The seal is held in with a c clip with clip removed turn the steering wheel over one way and it will shoot off. Clean up area and install new one. They cost $30.
Transmission is a 727 however a simple filter and gasket kit has the pan gasket for both a 904 and 727 usually. Change the fluid. The rear seal on the transmission you can get from Chrysler directly with the dust boot. If you have done it before this is also a very good time to clean out the valvebody and replace the shifter seals. If you havent done it before don't try it without a manual.
The rear end is an 8 1/4 or 9 1/4 the vent for the axle is a tube from the top of carrier going to the passenger side. These love to fill with dust, dirt , gravel and rust. Clean out thouroughly with a coat hanger and compressed air. IF plugged your axle seals and pininon seal pops out. Check ujoints front and back of play and if they have grease fittings grease. If no fittings and they seem loose replace. Take care with the clips and make sure it sits in the yokes flush.
Brakes up front are 10 disc or 11 disc depending on package. New pads are not expensive. The calipers should not move excessively between the two arms of the spindle. If they do there is shims available.
Rear brakes are drum. Make sure the parking brake cables are free and working. Replace if too rusted or broken. The self adjuster also has a cable replace them.
Most likely the car will have 11 X 2 or 11 X 2 1/2 drums finned in the rear. They are available new. The edge of the drum should be 1/4 thick or better. If your drums are good sandblast them and paint them with 1200 cast iron paint. Pay attention that the groove where the backing plate runs in is clean. Before painting use a propane torch on the inside where the shoes run and bleed out any fluids. Simply run the torch over the surface back and forth lightly, your just heating them up to get warm not hot. Fluid will come out wipe with a paper towel. Some of this is brake fluid, rear end oil, or water. It will cause brakes to grab if not removed.
The axle seals should not be leaking any fluids. If they are its a chore on these to change them. Remove the back plate off carrier. Remove the center pin keeper bolt and pin. Push axles in and remove the C clips. Change axle seals. With the pin out do not rotate the axle as the spiders will move. Do not be fooled at parts store there is a gasket for the cover.
Clean and lubricate the door hinges, door latches. remove the door panels carefully and service the windows. The tracks for the windows themselves should be clean and not have grease. The window regulator however is greased. So are the joints on the arms.
The controls for the car will depend on if you have airconditioning or not. A/C cars have a vacuum controlled push button. It is a good idea to pull the buttons out after you have pressed them in. If no a/c the cables generally need to be removed cleaned, and then lubricated with a fine machine oil. Reinstall making sure that the cables are clipped in the spots correctly.
I prefer to remove the entire airbox myself, remove the heater core and test them for leaks, remove and clean out any old collection of leaves and or mouse nests.
Seat tracks can be lubricated however I prefer to remove and clean them before I do so.
Rear seats are a treasure trove of goodies. Namely the build sheet that is stuck to the bottom of the seat at factory.
I prefer to remove the carpet from the car and steam clean it myself. It also gives me a chance to see how much rust is under the carpet. If its not bad wire wheeling and painting 3 solid coats of paint works wonders.
Light bulbs should be checked all over the car and replaced. This includes the back of the dash cluster.
Speedometer cables. If you have cruise control you can remove the cables from under the hood. The inside of the cable is a spun braided cable. This should be cleaned and lubricated lightly with white litium grease and installed. The cruise unit wiring tabs like to corrode. Cleaning these will sometimes make a previously non working cruise unit work perfectly. Other times the unit's diaphrapm is bad. While there is non new available you can have these vulcanized at some shops.
You did ask if there was stuff to check and that is a list of stuff I usually do.
Front end, lubricate the hood hinges, rollers for the hood springs, hood latch.
check the ball joints both upper and lower for play or wear. Remove, clean and then grease the wheel bearings.
Check the brake calipers if they are stiff going in or the rubbers on them look damages replace.
Check brake hoses for cracks. If cracked replace.
Check brake lines for rust. If just light coating of rust thats fine if they look thick with rust replace.
Drain radiator and block of antifreeze. There is two plugs just above the engine crossmember that have a 9/16 head. Remove these to drain the block. FLush with water. While your at it flush out the heater core by removing the hoses from the front of the block that go to the firewall. Flush back and forth till clean. While your under the car check the frost plugs on the side of the block they should appear smooth with no bumps or rust pits. If rusty or pitted replace now.
Checking the fan belts and power steering belts. There should be no cracks. If cracked replace dont risk it.
360 is probably a 2 barrel holley carb. These are pretty much not rebuildable because of the power valve in the bottom that is NOT available. Replace with a carter 1 1/2 BBd carb as it bolts right on.
The thermostate housing is aluminum unless someone replaced it. They leak. Get the cast iron one from parts place. Its $20 and trust me it saves a major headache. For summer use a 180 thermostat Winter 195.
Check rad hoses if they are bulged from oil replace dont risk it.
Check rad near the bottom of rad touch the fins with your fingers if they distigrate bring rad in to get recored. Yes you can get a cheap replacement aluminum rad but the copper 2 core is better just dont let them paint it. Bring it home to paint with a gloss black enamel.
Look at the steering box. If the underside is leaking there is a seal kit available to fix that. You have to remove the pitman arm with a special puller. You cannot just impact the puller to remove it will snap apart you have to actually tighten and tap the pitman arm to get it off. The seal is held in with a c clip with clip removed turn the steering wheel over one way and it will shoot off. Clean up area and install new one. They cost $30.
Transmission is a 727 however a simple filter and gasket kit has the pan gasket for both a 904 and 727 usually. Change the fluid. The rear seal on the transmission you can get from Chrysler directly with the dust boot. If you have done it before this is also a very good time to clean out the valvebody and replace the shifter seals. If you havent done it before don't try it without a manual.
The rear end is an 8 1/4 or 9 1/4 the vent for the axle is a tube from the top of carrier going to the passenger side. These love to fill with dust, dirt , gravel and rust. Clean out thouroughly with a coat hanger and compressed air. IF plugged your axle seals and pininon seal pops out. Check ujoints front and back of play and if they have grease fittings grease. If no fittings and they seem loose replace. Take care with the clips and make sure it sits in the yokes flush.
Brakes up front are 10 disc or 11 disc depending on package. New pads are not expensive. The calipers should not move excessively between the two arms of the spindle. If they do there is shims available.
Rear brakes are drum. Make sure the parking brake cables are free and working. Replace if too rusted or broken. The self adjuster also has a cable replace them.
Most likely the car will have 11 X 2 or 11 X 2 1/2 drums finned in the rear. They are available new. The edge of the drum should be 1/4 thick or better. If your drums are good sandblast them and paint them with 1200 cast iron paint. Pay attention that the groove where the backing plate runs in is clean. Before painting use a propane torch on the inside where the shoes run and bleed out any fluids. Simply run the torch over the surface back and forth lightly, your just heating them up to get warm not hot. Fluid will come out wipe with a paper towel. Some of this is brake fluid, rear end oil, or water. It will cause brakes to grab if not removed.
The axle seals should not be leaking any fluids. If they are its a chore on these to change them. Remove the back plate off carrier. Remove the center pin keeper bolt and pin. Push axles in and remove the C clips. Change axle seals. With the pin out do not rotate the axle as the spiders will move. Do not be fooled at parts store there is a gasket for the cover.
Clean and lubricate the door hinges, door latches. remove the door panels carefully and service the windows. The tracks for the windows themselves should be clean and not have grease. The window regulator however is greased. So are the joints on the arms.
The controls for the car will depend on if you have airconditioning or not. A/C cars have a vacuum controlled push button. It is a good idea to pull the buttons out after you have pressed them in. If no a/c the cables generally need to be removed cleaned, and then lubricated with a fine machine oil. Reinstall making sure that the cables are clipped in the spots correctly.
I prefer to remove the entire airbox myself, remove the heater core and test them for leaks, remove and clean out any old collection of leaves and or mouse nests.
Seat tracks can be lubricated however I prefer to remove and clean them before I do so.
Rear seats are a treasure trove of goodies. Namely the build sheet that is stuck to the bottom of the seat at factory.
I prefer to remove the carpet from the car and steam clean it myself. It also gives me a chance to see how much rust is under the carpet. If its not bad wire wheeling and painting 3 solid coats of paint works wonders.
Light bulbs should be checked all over the car and replaced. This includes the back of the dash cluster.
Speedometer cables. If you have cruise control you can remove the cables from under the hood. The inside of the cable is a spun braided cable. This should be cleaned and lubricated lightly with white litium grease and installed. The cruise unit wiring tabs like to corrode. Cleaning these will sometimes make a previously non working cruise unit work perfectly. Other times the unit's diaphrapm is bad. While there is non new available you can have these vulcanized at some shops.
You did ask if there was stuff to check and that is a list of stuff I usually do.
03-23-2013, 09:15 AM
#7
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Wow That's a lot of work but I'll do it. I want to start with brakes, windows and cooling system work but I've a question related to the radiator. Actually the radiator doesn't has antifreeze only has water, must I only replace the water or should I do something more?.
The 360 V8 originally came with a 4 BBL carburetor but the last owner change it to a 2 BBL.
I've other question: I'm from south america, in my country I never saw other plymouth fury. In case that I need a body part, how hard could be to import it from the U.S and where can I buy it online?
The 360 V8 originally came with a 4 BBL carburetor but the last owner change it to a 2 BBL.
I've other question: I'm from south america, in my country I never saw other plymouth fury. In case that I need a body part, how hard could be to import it from the U.S and where can I buy it online?
Last edited by josehf34; 03-23-2013 at 09:18 AM.
03-23-2013, 02:47 PM
#9
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
In my city the lowest temperature I've seen is 12 C but I'll put antifreeze. Should I do something more on the radiator due to it had water inside?
I want to install a MSD ignitiion kit, some people told to me that this Kit could give me a better performance and better IDLE
I want to install a MSD ignitiion kit, some people told to me that this Kit could give me a better performance and better IDLE
03-23-2013, 02:53 PM
#10
Mopar Fanatic
Hi, If it sat for 10 years with only water in the cooling system I'd really look hard at the freeze plugs, look for corrosion around the edges of them. They're just thin metal and that's a long time with no corrosion protection.
03-23-2013, 05:08 PM
#11
In my city the lowest temperature I've seen is 12 C but I'll put antifreeze. Should I do something more on the radiator due to it had water inside?
I want to install a MSD ignitiion kit, some people told to me that this Kit could give me a better performance and better IDLE
I want to install a MSD ignitiion kit, some people told to me that this Kit could give me a better performance and better IDLE
Does your car have lean burn or regular electronic ignition on it? If the air cleaner has a box mounted to the side of it its lean burn.
I'm not crasy about msd ignition kits myself. Seen more than a few of them burnt out or just running like crap coming into my shop. I usually end up replacing them, the coil, sparkplug wires with a new mopar performance electronic ignition kit.
Antifreeze is not just about preventing the car from freezing but boiling over as well.
03-23-2013, 05:57 PM
#12
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Does your car have lean burn or regular electronic ignition on it? If the air cleaner has a box mounted to the side of it its lean burn.
I'm not crasy about msd ignition kits myself. Seen more than a few of them burnt out or just running like crap coming into my shop. I usually end up replacing them, the coil, sparkplug wires with a new mopar performance electronic ignition kit.
Antifreeze is not just about preventing the car from freezing but boiling over as well.
I'm not crasy about msd ignition kits myself. Seen more than a few of them burnt out or just running like crap coming into my shop. I usually end up replacing them, the coil, sparkplug wires with a new mopar performance electronic ignition kit.
Antifreeze is not just about preventing the car from freezing but boiling over as well.
is This the Mopar Ignition kit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRONIC-I...f8db44&vxp=mtr
03-23-2013, 08:25 PM
#13
Hi! I can see some corrosion into the radiator but I don't see corrosion in other parts
I don't see any box near to the air filter box but I attached a engine photo on this message, maybe you can find that box.
is This the Mopar Ignition kit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRONIC-I...f8db44&vxp=mtr
I don't see any box near to the air filter box but I attached a engine photo on this message, maybe you can find that box.
is This the Mopar Ignition kit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRONIC-I...f8db44&vxp=mtr
You however need the upper rad hose for sure from the picture and at a guess the lower if the upper looks like that. Overall it looks to be in good condition under the hood. neglected yes but good otherwise.
With a little bit of work you could make that engine compartment look super good. A careful taping of the air cleaner decal and then sanding the rest of the paint so that its smooth before painting it gloss black would work wonders. The engine looks completely original including the orange wires the cars came with those years. If someone had changed the engine the air cleaner would be different.
The engine can be touched up with chrysler blue paint and a paintbrush(Small artist brush). The engine has to be cleaned, the areas that have rust scuffed and the engine warmed up so that the paint fill flow.
Things like the ac pump can also be painted with black paint and a paintbrush. It will look much nicer and doesn't really take that long to do.
I am curious why someone put all that gm wire wrap on the wires. Looks sick with that on.
Last edited by jacilynn_s; 03-24-2013 at 05:31 AM.
03-24-2013, 05:26 AM
#14
Mopar Lover
the Technician i spoke with at Mallory informed me the most common reason for after market systems failing was mixing wrong parts... especially coils. also running solid core wires on incompatible systems.
03-24-2013, 09:00 PM
#15
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Yep that is a kit however you don't need it. See the black box on the firewall on the passenger side. Your car came with it from factory.
You however need the upper rad hose for sure from the picture and at a guess the lower if the upper looks like that. Overall it looks to be in good condition under the hood. neglected yes but good otherwise.
With a little bit of work you could make that engine compartment look super good. A careful taping of the air cleaner decal and then sanding the rest of the paint so that its smooth before painting it gloss black would work wonders. The engine looks completely original including the orange wires the cars came with those years. If someone had changed the engine the air cleaner would be different.
The engine can be touched up with chrysler blue paint and a paintbrush(Small artist brush). The engine has to be cleaned, the areas that have rust scuffed and the engine warmed up so that the paint fill flow.
Things like the ac pump can also be painted with black paint and a paintbrush. It will look much nicer and doesn't really take that long to do.
I am curious why someone put all that gm wire wrap on the wires. Looks sick with that on.
You however need the upper rad hose for sure from the picture and at a guess the lower if the upper looks like that. Overall it looks to be in good condition under the hood. neglected yes but good otherwise.
With a little bit of work you could make that engine compartment look super good. A careful taping of the air cleaner decal and then sanding the rest of the paint so that its smooth before painting it gloss black would work wonders. The engine looks completely original including the orange wires the cars came with those years. If someone had changed the engine the air cleaner would be different.
The engine can be touched up with chrysler blue paint and a paintbrush(Small artist brush). The engine has to be cleaned, the areas that have rust scuffed and the engine warmed up so that the paint fill flow.
Things like the ac pump can also be painted with black paint and a paintbrush. It will look much nicer and doesn't really take that long to do.
I am curious why someone put all that gm wire wrap on the wires. Looks sick with that on.
I want to change the valvle covers for this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Perfor...e5efe6&vxp=mtr and use this air filter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1221/media/images
Is a great new know that my car already has an good ignition system but, isn't necessary to check something on the box located in the firewall?
I want to change the ignition cables and all the engine hoses. What can you recommend to me about this things?
PD: I'm worried about the alternator status, it works well but how can I check if I need to replace it in a near future?
Thanks for all your help
03-25-2013, 03:24 AM
#16
The air cleaner you have is good no need to replace it with the piece of junk you linked. The valve covers you have also have the wire looms to hold the wires. Changing to those valve covers is imo a waste of time as they look like crap.
The box on the wall is fine. You can go with the orange box if you want but the gain is minimal.
The alternator itself is pretty much bulletproof. However the brushes in it tend to wear out after 20 years. They are available new and are easy to change. On the back of the alternator are two cermamic holders in white at the center of the back. They have either a small phillips head screw or 1/4 head screw. Remove screw pull out ceramic being careful to not loose any washers or parts. Pull brush out from ceramic and replace with new one reinstall.
Rad is short for radiator.
THe air cleaner you linked has a plastic base that either cracks, warps, or otherwise doesn't fit properly. The aluminum valve covers tend to leak because they lack a notch for the valve cover gasket to sit in. For a daily driver both will cause you problems you don't need.
If ignition cables you mean the spark plug wires I would definatly recommend Chrysler for a few reasons. They fit properly and are cut the right length. They work properly. And they fit into the wire looms properly. Honestly if your wires do not have any bumps or bulges on them, do not have ends pulled off, or wrecked rubber ends leave them alone. A big mistake people make is replacing them when they don't need too. A good way to check wires is to start the car late at night away from any lights and open the hood. If you see a light show happening they need replacing otherwise leave them. The original wires on my driver really are original to the car 20 years later they work perfectly fine with no light show.
The box on the wall is fine. You can go with the orange box if you want but the gain is minimal.
The alternator itself is pretty much bulletproof. However the brushes in it tend to wear out after 20 years. They are available new and are easy to change. On the back of the alternator are two cermamic holders in white at the center of the back. They have either a small phillips head screw or 1/4 head screw. Remove screw pull out ceramic being careful to not loose any washers or parts. Pull brush out from ceramic and replace with new one reinstall.
Rad is short for radiator.
THe air cleaner you linked has a plastic base that either cracks, warps, or otherwise doesn't fit properly. The aluminum valve covers tend to leak because they lack a notch for the valve cover gasket to sit in. For a daily driver both will cause you problems you don't need.
If ignition cables you mean the spark plug wires I would definatly recommend Chrysler for a few reasons. They fit properly and are cut the right length. They work properly. And they fit into the wire looms properly. Honestly if your wires do not have any bumps or bulges on them, do not have ends pulled off, or wrecked rubber ends leave them alone. A big mistake people make is replacing them when they don't need too. A good way to check wires is to start the car late at night away from any lights and open the hood. If you see a light show happening they need replacing otherwise leave them. The original wires on my driver really are original to the car 20 years later they work perfectly fine with no light show.
03-25-2013, 04:53 AM
#17
Mopar Lover
Wow that eddy air cleaner has a plastic bottom eh?...
Well i.m so glade i got the black powder coat version of that air cleaner...right.
Good thing i got the "other" Mopar performance valve covers too, or i would have oil leaking down the sides of the heads wow what a mess.
Well i.m so glade i got the black powder coat version of that air cleaner...right.
Good thing i got the "other" Mopar performance valve covers too, or i would have oil leaking down the sides of the heads wow what a mess.
03-25-2013, 07:49 AM
#18
Wow that eddy air cleaner has a plastic bottom eh?...
Well i.m so glade i got the black powder coat version of that air cleaner...right.
Good thing i got the "other" Mopar performance valve covers too, or i would have oil leaking down the sides of the heads wow what a mess.
Well i.m so glade i got the black powder coat version of that air cleaner...right.
Good thing i got the "other" Mopar performance valve covers too, or i would have oil leaking down the sides of the heads wow what a mess.
If your valvecovers are not pissing oil consider yourself lucky. The ridge is an indent that stock valve covers have it compresses the gasket a little bit more in one spot and sticks to the valve covers without puking towards the inside. The only way around that is to use the rubber metal gaskets on the valvecovers which are not that easy to get a hold of.
Side note however is that most stock valve covers on small blocks with power brakes have a small flat spot under the booster. Only really important on the trucks though.
03-25-2013, 11:59 AM
#19
Mopar Lover
Its the adapter for afb and 2 barrel not needed on thermoquads or elderbrock carbs.
If your valvecovers are not pissing oil consider yourself lucky. The ridge is an indent that stock valve covers have it compresses the gasket a little bit more in one spot and sticks to the valve covers without puking towards the inside. The only way around that is to use the rubber metal gaskets on the valvecovers which are not that easy to get a hold of.
Side note however is that most stock valve covers on small blocks with power brakes have a small flat spot under the booster. Only really important on the trucks though.
If your valvecovers are not pissing oil consider yourself lucky. The ridge is an indent that stock valve covers have it compresses the gasket a little bit more in one spot and sticks to the valve covers without puking towards the inside. The only way around that is to use the rubber metal gaskets on the valvecovers which are not that easy to get a hold of.
Side note however is that most stock valve covers on small blocks with power brakes have a small flat spot under the booster. Only really important on the trucks though.
i actually could use that small flat spot on my booster know what your talking about...I keep the turn-buckle tight!
i am looking for a double diaphragm booster from a smaller Chrysler.
And my bad i thought he was re-installing the 4 bbl.. i'm aware of the adapter i used one for a while, lasted until i pitched it.
03-25-2013, 07:33 PM
#20
Double diaphram on a fifth ave? Are you dying to kiss the windshield?
I think what you want is the 7 in single diaphram from the dart. Most are 8 in but there is 7 in. I dont really feel like going outside to measure the booster on my car but I think its like 10 inches across.
I think what you want is the 7 in single diaphram from the dart. Most are 8 in but there is 7 in. I dont really feel like going outside to measure the booster on my car but I think its like 10 inches across.
03-26-2013, 04:44 AM
#21
Mopar Lover
I have been told that a double diaphragm would not make braking any harder.
this came from several separate posts on the M-body page Farleys Diplomat page.
Now you say it will not add power to the master cylinder?
i haven't made any purchases yet so now you send me off to research more.
this came from several separate posts on the M-body page Farleys Diplomat page.
Now you say it will not add power to the master cylinder?
i haven't made any purchases yet so now you send me off to research more.
03-28-2013, 03:39 PM
#22
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Hi everyone.
I want to ask something...
What the experts think about the electronic water pumps and replace the original Radiator Fan to an Electronic Radiator Fan??
On the last week I cleaned the car and I want to give a treatment to the original paint because the paint is Black but it starts to be like a dark blue. What can I do to try to restore the original color?
I want to ask something...
What the experts think about the electronic water pumps and replace the original Radiator Fan to an Electronic Radiator Fan??
On the last week I cleaned the car and I want to give a treatment to the original paint because the paint is Black but it starts to be like a dark blue. What can I do to try to restore the original color?
04-04-2013, 08:10 PM
#23
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Hi again!!
I'm looking for an inside part but I can't find any like this, can anyone help me to find it? In the attachment is a photo of the part
I have the follow trouble with my car: no light inside works not even the dash lights!! Where are located the fuses of this car.
I love this boat but I'm a little worried about the rust
I'm looking for an inside part but I can't find any like this, can anyone help me to find it? In the attachment is a photo of the part
I have the follow trouble with my car: no light inside works not even the dash lights!! Where are located the fuses of this car.
I love this boat but I'm a little worried about the rust
Last edited by josehf34; 04-04-2013 at 08:15 PM.
04-05-2013, 05:49 AM
#25
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
04-05-2013, 06:05 AM
#26
i know of 4 cars at least to get those from around here but that wont help you.
I should also warn you that fuse panels can also be under the dash in a plastic plate below the steering column, bolted or hanging under the dash on drivers side as well as in the glove box. At the moment I just can't remember where they are on that model. I think the glove box but I could be wrong.
I should also warn you that fuse panels can also be under the dash in a plastic plate below the steering column, bolted or hanging under the dash on drivers side as well as in the glove box. At the moment I just can't remember where they are on that model. I think the glove box but I could be wrong.
04-05-2013, 11:41 AM
#27
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
i know of 4 cars at least to get those from around here but that wont help you.
I should also warn you that fuse panels can also be under the dash in a plastic plate below the steering column, bolted or hanging under the dash on drivers side as well as in the glove box. At the moment I just can't remember where they are on that model. I think the glove box but I could be wrong.
I should also warn you that fuse panels can also be under the dash in a plastic plate below the steering column, bolted or hanging under the dash on drivers side as well as in the glove box. At the moment I just can't remember where they are on that model. I think the glove box but I could be wrong.
I have other question: The lever to open the hood isn't working, I pull it but it don't do anything I guess the cable of this system just broke. This is a normal cable or I need to buy a replacement from a website like summitracing?
Thanks everyone
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03-22-2012 03:19 AM
stazja01
Do-It-yourself Section
3
05-18-2011 02:41 AM
