What carb should I buy? 67 Fury III 383
04-08-2010, 06:00 AM
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What carb should I buy? 67 Fury III 383
I've decided to replace the carb on my Fury. I think I want a 650 cfm carb with an electronic choke. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to put on it? Edlebrock, Holley? I'd like to find a used one that has been rebuilt but if I can find a good deal on a new one I just might make the purchase. Should I go ahead and replace the intake since I'm replacing the carb?
04-08-2010, 06:30 AM
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Personally, I prefer the Edelbrock AFB style carburetor. The AFB-type carburetors are more drivable (work better at middle rpm) than Holleys, which perform best when wide open. If you are running a stock manifold, you might as well replace it if you feel up to the task. If you are running an auto tranny and highway gears, a regular Edelbrock Performer is a good option. If you are running headers, and a steeper gears (3.55 or higher) then the Performer RPM might work better. A favorite manifold of mine (if you can still find one) is the old Torker; it was a single plane manifold that made surprising power across the entire rpm band.
04-08-2010, 07:08 AM
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I agree with Sangetsu the Edelbrock AFB carb is the better for your application I do not think that you have to change the intake, for the car is large and not a race car. The Edelbrock is also alot easier to toon for the street than a Holley. Good luck on the carb swap
04-08-2010, 07:49 AM
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I agree with Sangetsu the Edelbrock AFB carb is the better for your application I do not think that you have to change the intake, for the car is large and not a race car. The Edelbrock is also alot easier to toon for the street than a Holley. Good luck on the carb swap
04-08-2010, 07:55 AM
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Personally, I prefer the Edelbrock AFB style carburetor. The AFB-type carburetors are more drivable (work better at middle rpm) than Holleys, which perform best when wide open. If you are running a stock manifold, you might as well replace it if you feel up to the task. If you are running an auto tranny and highway gears, a regular Edelbrock Performer is a good option. If you are running headers, and a steeper gears (3.55 or higher) then the Performer RPM might work better. A favorite manifold of mine (if you can still find one) is the old Torker; it was a single plane manifold that made surprising power across the entire rpm band.
04-12-2010, 12:48 AM
#6
Putting the Holley v AFB question aside for a moment, the decision of carb size should be based on the intended useage of your car (in this case street), the anticipated rev range and the amount of mods done to the motor.
The higher the revs, the more need you'll have for the 750 over the 650.......but on an unmodded motor this will allow you to reach your desired rpm though it would probably be pointless since your motor would have stopped making power a long time ago. A guy in an identical car who'd shifted earlier would have been long gone.
In this case, a lower rpm range will ultimately make for a quicker car -eliminating the need for the larger carb. Therefore, the smaller carb would be the better choice. The bonus would be that out of the hole, the smaller carb would give better low and midddle range torque and be faster than the big carb here too.
Bottom line: the 650 is the better bet on an unmodded street motor. This would also hold true if you fit headers and make no other mods since the gains would be noticable but not enough to warrant the bigger carb yet.
The AFB is a great carb and most likely the best bet for your application. The Holley is more widely understood and in most people's view, easier to tune. If you're willing to take the time learning your way around the AFB (which incidentally will most likely work well straight out of the box) you'll be happy with your choice.
The higher the revs, the more need you'll have for the 750 over the 650.......but on an unmodded motor this will allow you to reach your desired rpm though it would probably be pointless since your motor would have stopped making power a long time ago. A guy in an identical car who'd shifted earlier would have been long gone.
In this case, a lower rpm range will ultimately make for a quicker car -eliminating the need for the larger carb. Therefore, the smaller carb would be the better choice. The bonus would be that out of the hole, the smaller carb would give better low and midddle range torque and be faster than the big carb here too.
Bottom line: the 650 is the better bet on an unmodded street motor. This would also hold true if you fit headers and make no other mods since the gains would be noticable but not enough to warrant the bigger carb yet.
The AFB is a great carb and most likely the best bet for your application. The Holley is more widely understood and in most people's view, easier to tune. If you're willing to take the time learning your way around the AFB (which incidentally will most likely work well straight out of the box) you'll be happy with your choice.
04-14-2010, 07:19 AM
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The reason I favor the AFB over the Holley is it's flexibility. I've tuned many Holley carburetors, but setting one up for street driving is more difficult than setting one up for the track. Holleys work best at idle and wide-open, but suffer a little in between. The AFB uses a mechanical needle valve jet system which offers better mid-range drivability.
If your car is a '70 or earlier with a square bore intake, the AFB will fit without modification. If you have a '71 or later with the spread-bore manifold, you will need an adapter.
The most common AFB is 625 CFM in size, though a 750 cfm size is now also available.
You don't need a bigger carburetor, even if you run headers. Keep in mind that larger carburetors are intended for higher rpm use. I doubt your engine sees anything above 5000 rpm, so getting a bigger carburetor will not help. Large carburetors suffer from having poor power and torque at lower rpms, which is why they are used on cars with steep gears, and manual transmission/high stall converter speed auto applications.
An AFB (or Holley 600) will give you power from idle until 5500 rpm or so, which is all you need. A 750 will give you less power from idle to 3000 rpm, but past 3000 rpm, it'll make a little more. Being that 99% of your driving will be below 3000 rpm, the smaller carb will simply work better.
Your next mod should be rear-end gears. If you do a lot of highway driving, find a set of 3.23 gears, if you do more street driving and want more acceleration, get a set of 3.55 gears. If you plan on doing more engine modes (pistons, cam, etc.) and really want to move, find a set of 3.91 gears.
If your car is a '70 or earlier with a square bore intake, the AFB will fit without modification. If you have a '71 or later with the spread-bore manifold, you will need an adapter.
The most common AFB is 625 CFM in size, though a 750 cfm size is now also available.
You don't need a bigger carburetor, even if you run headers. Keep in mind that larger carburetors are intended for higher rpm use. I doubt your engine sees anything above 5000 rpm, so getting a bigger carburetor will not help. Large carburetors suffer from having poor power and torque at lower rpms, which is why they are used on cars with steep gears, and manual transmission/high stall converter speed auto applications.
An AFB (or Holley 600) will give you power from idle until 5500 rpm or so, which is all you need. A 750 will give you less power from idle to 3000 rpm, but past 3000 rpm, it'll make a little more. Being that 99% of your driving will be below 3000 rpm, the smaller carb will simply work better.
Your next mod should be rear-end gears. If you do a lot of highway driving, find a set of 3.23 gears, if you do more street driving and want more acceleration, get a set of 3.55 gears. If you plan on doing more engine modes (pistons, cam, etc.) and really want to move, find a set of 3.91 gears.
12-09-2010, 10:56 PM
#9
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Personally, I prefer the Edelbrock AFB style carburetor. The AFB-type carburetors are more drivable (work better at middle rpm) than Holleys, which perform best when wide open. If you are running a stock manifold, you might as well replace it if you feel up to the task. If you are running an auto tranny and highway gears, a regular Edelbrock Performer is a good option. If you are running headers, and a steeper gears (3.55 or higher) then the Performer RPM might work better. A favorite manifold of mine (if you can still find one) is the old Torker; it was a single plane manifold that made surprising power across the entire rpm band.
I had a 383 Magnum in a Fury and installed a Torker using the stock Carter AVS mechanical secondaries carb. The difference was amazing! I'd do it again!
The Edelbrock carb and manifold get my vote.
12-12-2010, 10:04 PM
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If you are looking to do it on a budget it is possible. I have a little 318 just put the Edelbrock intake and 600 carb on it.Then got a new distributor to get rid of the points. Super happy with it and the throttle response is grate. Payed $200 for the carb used-new on ebay found the intake on craigslist for $80 and the Procomp Electric distributor was $60 on ebay so in all $340.
Summit racing Has Edelbrock Performer Remanufactured Carburetors for $235 a friend has used them in the past and it worked well.... just bolt and go for us.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9906/
Summit racing Has Edelbrock Performer Remanufactured Carburetors for $235 a friend has used them in the past and it worked well.... just bolt and go for us.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9906/
Last edited by luke; 12-12-2010 at 10:06 PM.
03-27-2011, 05:46 PM
#11
as for the intake;
What do you have now? If a two barrel then you need to change it to a four barrel to use suggested carbs. Find a good used one, or go
after-market and get one specifically for your intended rpm range. Should be idle to 3000 rpm.
What do you have now? If a two barrel then you need to change it to a four barrel to use suggested carbs. Find a good used one, or go
after-market and get one specifically for your intended rpm range. Should be idle to 3000 rpm.
05-02-2011, 11:40 AM
#12
The reason I favor the AFB over the Holley is it's flexibility. I've tuned many Holley carburetors, but setting one up for street driving is more difficult than setting one up for the track. Holleys work best at idle and wide-open, but suffer a little in between. The AFB uses a mechanical needle valve jet system which offers better mid-range drivability.
If your car is a '70 or earlier with a square bore intake, the AFB will fit without modification. If you have a '71 or later with the spread-bore manifold, you will need an adapter.
The most common AFB is 625 CFM in size, though a 750 cfm size is now also available.
You don't need a bigger carburetor, even if you run headers. Keep in mind that larger carburetors are intended for higher rpm use. I doubt your engine sees anything above 5000 rpm, so getting a bigger carburetor will not help. Large carburetors suffer from having poor power and torque at lower rpms, which is why they are used on cars with steep gears, and manual transmission/high stall converter speed auto applications.
An AFB (or Holley 600) will give you power from idle until 5500 rpm or so, which is all you need. A 750 will give you less power from idle to 3000 rpm, but past 3000 rpm, it'll make a little more. Being that 99% of your driving will be below 3000 rpm, the smaller carb will simply work better.
Your next mod should be rear-end gears. If you do a lot of highway driving, find a set of 3.23 gears, if you do more street driving and want more acceleration, get a set of 3.55 gears. If you plan on doing more engine modes (pistons, cam, etc.) and really want to move, find a set of 3.91 gears.
If your car is a '70 or earlier with a square bore intake, the AFB will fit without modification. If you have a '71 or later with the spread-bore manifold, you will need an adapter.
The most common AFB is 625 CFM in size, though a 750 cfm size is now also available.
You don't need a bigger carburetor, even if you run headers. Keep in mind that larger carburetors are intended for higher rpm use. I doubt your engine sees anything above 5000 rpm, so getting a bigger carburetor will not help. Large carburetors suffer from having poor power and torque at lower rpms, which is why they are used on cars with steep gears, and manual transmission/high stall converter speed auto applications.
An AFB (or Holley 600) will give you power from idle until 5500 rpm or so, which is all you need. A 750 will give you less power from idle to 3000 rpm, but past 3000 rpm, it'll make a little more. Being that 99% of your driving will be below 3000 rpm, the smaller carb will simply work better.
Your next mod should be rear-end gears. If you do a lot of highway driving, find a set of 3.23 gears, if you do more street driving and want more acceleration, get a set of 3.55 gears. If you plan on doing more engine modes (pistons, cam, etc.) and really want to move, find a set of 3.91 gears.
05-04-2011, 01:23 AM
#13
HOLLY makes some 2bbl carbs, But you will need an adapter I think. If you want a 4bbl I would change the intake.
05-06-2011, 01:40 AM
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hey not to thread jack here but i have a brand new weber carb in the box that i think will bolt up but has anyone run webers on anything besides a super 6 slant setup? is it even possible on a 318? ive got a 318 with 2b carb and was thinking the pattern looks the same as my weber...
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