Tuning a 354 Hemi.

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Old 08-22-2011, 12:16 PM
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Tuning a 354 Hemi.

Need some input on an issue I'm having trying to get the 354 in my 56 New Yorker tuned up. I'm in the process of replacing the points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires, and plugs. I've replaced the points and condenser, made sure that the gap on the points is correct, reassembled everything. And now nothing, no spark. I ran a voltage meter on the negative terminal of the coil and it reads nothing. As I said I have checked the points gap and am certain they are correct. One thing that I've had issue with on the new parts is, I bought them from Advanced Auto and have returned several items because they are just wrong. Would it be possible that the new condenser is wrong? The points appear to be correct as they fit properly, and I'm able to set gap just fine. Any suggestions on what to check next. It was running before I put the new points and condenser in!
Old 08-22-2011, 03:47 PM
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You could have the condenser hooked up wrong to the points Grounding the 12V
Old 08-22-2011, 04:49 PM
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You either have the points set so that they are not opening closing, or something broken in the insulator for the terminal, a shorted (defective) condenser, or frayed feed through where the wire goes through the body of the distributor.

Easy to check. Open the points, and put a piece of cardbard, matchbook, etc to hold them open and INSULATE them. With the key in "run" see if you get a test lamp or battery voltage from the points side of the coil to ground.

If so, you have them gapped wrong---they must be gapped when the rubbing block is at the very peak of the distributor cam.

If the above test does NOT show voltage/ lamp, look further.

Disconnect the wire from the points and put your meter / lamp on the end of the wire. Should see voltage/ lamp. Wiggle the wire around to check for breaks/ frayed/ raw insulation

Next inspect your hookup terminal--is the insulator intact? You sure you didn't have the wire/ condenser ''layed over" in such a way that it was contacting ground?

These are incredibly simple, just an open/ close switch with a condenser to ground.

By the way, a points system will NOT run without a good condenser (capacitor) and new does not mean "good."

By the way, is this single/ dual points? If dual, you need to gap each set separately, again with the rubbing block on top of the cam.


Once I'd done about 5 sets of points, I quit using a feeler. You can read the dwell either on a scope or meter when cranking. I'd just set 'em "by eye," check the dwell, and adjust as necessary. When checking the dwell on dual points, you must block one set open and set them one at a time.
Old 08-22-2011, 09:32 PM
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I have installed brand new condensers that were bad out of the box.
Old 08-23-2011, 05:58 AM
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I think that I'll put the old condenser back in, as I know it was working before. The new condenser has a flat wire lead that looks like the original oem style. I placed a plastic sleeve around it before reassembling it but it's possible I may have grounded it. The distributor is a dual point setup, I do feel comfortable that they are opening and closing as they should and have verified the gap several times. Thank you every one for the responses.
Old 08-23-2011, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mjcolemo
I do feel comfortable that they are opening and closing as they should and have verified the gap several times. Thank you every one for the responses.
A couple of suggestions:

First, VERIFY that they are opening/ closing as I suggested with a lamp, or am I wrongly assuming you are simply looking at the points?

Also, I'd strongly suggest you pull the distributor out ----because--

these are a "tang" drive and will only fit two ways. This means that if you mark where the vacuum is pointing, and note where the rotor is pointing, it can only go back in two ways.

This will only take a minute, and will make it incredibly easier to deal with.
Old 08-24-2011, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 440roadrunner
A couple of suggestions:

First, VERIFY that they are opening/ closing as I suggested with a lamp, or am I wrongly assuming you are simply looking at the points?

Also, I'd strongly suggest you pull the distributor out ----because--

these are a "tang" drive and will only fit two ways. This means that if you mark where the vacuum is pointing, and note where the rotor is pointing, it can only go back in two ways.

This will only take a minute, and will make it incredibly easier to deal with.

I can definately agree with the suggestion to pull the distributor out. It is much easier to work on that way. I think that I've found the issue to be that the condenser was grounded. Now I have voltage showing on the negative side of the coil. I can hook up the dwell meter, block off one set of points and proceed with setting the points.
Old 04-29-2013, 07:34 PM
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i have a trick way to set chrysler duel point dist. that get the dwell right on 42. but it is to long to list here. if it just came down to it i could talk to you on the phone, once you learn it you wont forget it.
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