64 GT in progress
#1
64 GT in progress
Recently bought a 64 GT hardtop and have begun the long process of bringing her back to her previous glory. It will be a long road; I've got a little rust, tattered upholstery, tired slant, etc, etc.. But she will get there. Had one of these in the early 70's and really loved it - then traded for a 68 GT convertible, but never liked it as well. Wish me luck!
#5
Carb glitch (I think)
I have an idle/starting problem. If I come to a stop in gear and wait for a light, etc., the idle is initially smooth, then gets rough and stays that way until I go. Also, after more than 5 minutes or so of sitting while warm, takes a bit of cranking and gas pedal floored to start.
My theory is that perhaps my float valve is leaking fuel, causing too rich condition at idle, and residual pressure from the pump is pushing fuel out while I'm parked. If it's parked for 20 min. or so, no problem, starts just like a slant ought to.
Think I'm on the right track?
My theory is that perhaps my float valve is leaking fuel, causing too rich condition at idle, and residual pressure from the pump is pushing fuel out while I'm parked. If it's parked for 20 min. or so, no problem, starts just like a slant ought to.
Think I'm on the right track?
#6
Sounds like it might need a good overhaul to make sure all the setting are rite inside... Also It will act like that if you have the Idle set to high.. Make sure your tune up is in good order?
Rough Idle sounds like it has a vacuum leak somewhere.... Check all the hoses and plugs and or vacuum pods for leakage... Also Give the intake nuts a tighten up...
See if that helps....
Rough Idle sounds like it has a vacuum leak somewhere.... Check all the hoses and plugs and or vacuum pods for leakage... Also Give the intake nuts a tighten up...
See if that helps....
#7
idle glitch
Yeah, if I pull it apart far enough to replace the float valve, might as well buy the kit and do it right. I'm sure it needs it anyway. Actually, the whole engine needs an overhaul; though the compression is even around 150, there are kind of ugly noises coming from the bottom end - sounds like every bearing is - uh - just a touch loose... But I'm still on the fence as to whether to rebuild the slant or build a 360 that I can get for free.
The power of the 360 would be very cool, but there are a lot of hurdles to the swap; manifold, oil pan, center link, tranny, yada yada. I'm thinking maybe just redo the slanty and pump it up a little. It was always a sweet motor. What do you think?
The power of the 360 would be very cool, but there are a lot of hurdles to the swap; manifold, oil pan, center link, tranny, yada yada. I'm thinking maybe just redo the slanty and pump it up a little. It was always a sweet motor. What do you think?
#9
What oil you running in the 6 now?????? Try a 40W...
V-8 an nice convertion, But its a lot of work and you need a good size wallet to make it happen..... Go look at "Tin Cup" over on for A Bodys only... That a masterpiece....
Lynn is rite you might even turbo your slant...
V-8 an nice convertion, But its a lot of work and you need a good size wallet to make it happen..... Go look at "Tin Cup" over on for A Bodys only... That a masterpiece....
Lynn is rite you might even turbo your slant...
#13
Turbo slant?
Turbo sounds like even more $ than dropping in the 360; and the slanty would have to built pretty strong to handle the boost. I'm thinking more like adding compression, a mild cam, a 2 bbl and some good exhaust manifolds/headers. I only want maybe 200 hp at the flywheel - but no matter what, I want a nice smooth idle.
#15
on the slant 6 and 318s the small carbs that have 3 castings. sometimes have 2 screws that go from the top casting to the bottom casting. do NOT over tighten those screws. use two fingers and tighten to only sung. be sure the face's of the castings are flat. over tighten the screws will warp the castings.
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