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67 big block dart

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Old 01-28-2011, 12:07 AM
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67 big block dart

For christmas my wife bought me a 67 dart with a 400 ci engine in it needs some work looks like a kid was trying to set it up for bracket runs. A few rigs that i have never sen before mostly electrical has the original coil with a real rig on it. this was a dart 270 with a 318 when built. the 400 has headers aftermarket aluminum radiator no shroud has electric fan which burned up first day i had car. electric fuel pump offenhauser 360 intake with a holley double pumper not sure what size. has orange ecu installed but going to that stock coil. brand new accel coil in box in back seat. body is straight minor rust under back window. but pans are all solid. i just had back surgery and cant even play yet anyone on jersey shore wanna give me some ideas e-mail me here. it has been 10 yrs since last car a 67 dart gt with a 360 was last i built.
Old 01-28-2011, 01:26 AM
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Tha car has a 400ci big block now right? It's early and I have a hard time processing things sometimes.

How are you going to be using this car? Belt driven fans are reliable. Electric fans reduse the amount of drag on the motor.
Old 01-28-2011, 07:31 AM
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Personally I think the flex o lites are junk. I would either go with a nice stock fan blade OR a good electric fan. Don't go to advance auto or somewhere and buy one. Order a GOOD ONE from summit or jegs or somewhere like that. If you don't spend at least 100 bucks on an electric you'll never get the cooling you need. Trust me I know from experience.
Old 01-28-2011, 04:19 PM
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Look at Jegs or Summit and measure your radiator.. Order the electric fan and shroud conbination that best fits your radiator... Make sure if you need a pusher( fan on the outside of the radiator) or puller (fan on the inside of the radiator) and then use a temp control switch to turn it on and off... You will not be sorry you did this....
Old 01-28-2011, 08:52 PM
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FEED BACK ON FAN

HAS A NICE SINGLE PASS ALUMINUM RADIATOR AND ALUMINUM TRANS COOLER. i AM NOT GOING TO BE RACING THIS CAR UNLESS SOME IMPORT PULLS ALONG SIDE AND WANTS TO PLAY. THE 400 HAS ENOUGH POWER FOR NOW BUT I WILL PROBABLY AT SOME POINT DOWN SIZE TO A SMALL BLOCK EITHER A 360 OR 340 BUT LIKE I SAID I WANT TO START DRIVING CAR NOW HAD BACK SURGERY LAST WEEK AND DONT KNOW HOW LONG UNTILL I WILL BE ABLE TO DO EVERYTHING I WANT TO BUT I MIGHT JUST PUT MECHANICAL ON FOR NOW THEN FIGUREOUT WHERE I AM GOING TO GO FROM THERE
Old 01-28-2011, 09:17 PM
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TES THIS CAR HAS A 400 IN IT RIGHT NOW WHOEVER STARTED THIS WAS HALF ASSED STARTED TOO MANY PROJECTS ON CAR BUT NEVER FINISHED THEM. aND MY FAVORITE PART IS THAT THEY PAINTED THE CRAGER SS WHEELS BLACK I COULD KILL THEM BUT NOT A BAD BUY MY WIFE DID THIS ON HER OWN TO SURPRISE ME FOR X-MAS
Old 01-29-2011, 04:36 PM
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welcome
Old 01-29-2011, 05:38 PM
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A 400 is a good start for a stroker motor! A 440 crank and a bore and your up to 480 cubes. Also requires special rods and balancing.
Old 01-29-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MercuryDon
A 400 is a good start for a stroker motor! A 440 crank and a bore and your up to 480 cubes. Also requires special rods and balancing.
That would require roughly .112.5" of boring, which won't work for a big block mopar.



I say go with a SEVEN (7) Blade fan AND an electric fan. You'll lose a bit of horse power with the 7 blade, but you'll never over heat with both.

Preventing over heating > Losing 5 hundreths of a second off a pass.

Last edited by blue 68 gts; 01-29-2011 at 06:49 PM.
Old 01-29-2011, 07:36 PM
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Are you sure this is a big block 400? You said it had a 360 Offenhouser manifold. That would be a small block manifold and physically will not bolt to any big block. I hope I don't offend you but just to make sure we are all on the same page, is the distributor in the front of the motor or the back? If it is a 400, then I would use it the way it is to get everything dialed in the way you like it. Once that is done 400s make great stroker motors. 440 crank will put it at 451.

Congratulations on the new car and you have an awesome wife for buying that for you.
Old 01-31-2011, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MReeves
Look at Jegs or Summit and measure your radiator.. Order the electric fan and shroud conbination that best fits your radiator... Make sure if you need a pusher( fan on the outside of the radiator) or puller (fan on the inside of the radiator) and then use a temp control switch to turn it on and off... You will not be sorry you did this....
X2

I would use a puller fan as a pusher fan can flatten out if the air going by/through it is faster than the fane speed. The shroud will also force the air to go through the radiator rather than around and through it. This will allow better cooling.
Old 01-31-2011, 07:50 PM
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welcome n enjoy
Old 02-01-2011, 04:14 PM
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offenhauser 360 is just style of manifold not referring to engine size. i am sure this is a big block front mount distributor actually it is a 73 400 ci
Old 02-01-2011, 05:55 PM
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Sorry I misunderstood. Sounds like a great car... I would just go through the car and make sure the big block swap was done properly and repair anything that was not done to your standards. I would stay with the big block and maybe just put a bigger one in at some point. The swap is already done so putting a 440 or a 451 stroked 400 in should be simple.
Old 02-18-2011, 12:06 PM
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67 Big Block Dart

To install 440 crank in 400 engine and gain stroke requires offset grinding the rod throws down to BBChevy size, use BBChevy rods, turn OD of crank counterweights down so crank will turn in block, bore block(after sonic testing) to 4.375". Or just call Crankshaft Specialists in Memphis, TN and order the kit. Kit may or may not need Mallory metal in crank counterweights. Its a little pricey, but it makes a ton of torque, because the pistons spend just a few more degree @ TDC.. I believe it makes more torque than the 4.15" crank that a lot of people run now. In a seasoned block, half filled w/Moroso filler, engines last 1500+ 1/8 mi. passes before the passenger side of the block pulls the middle of the cam bores apart. This does not usually ruin the stroker kit, so all you need is another block, that is if you listen carefully to your engine( valve train gets noisy, really quickly). If you are like most bracket racers, run it till it blows and oils the track just like a top fueler.
Old 02-19-2011, 08:27 AM
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You do not have to offset grind the crank. In fact 99% of them out there are using stock rod journals. All you need to do is have the Mains on the 440 crank turned down 400 size. Have them re heat treated as turning the crank that deep gets rid of the heat treating. You use the stock 400 rods which are very stout or buy after market rods. There are alot of companies that already sell the 440 cranks turned down and heat treated already. Some people like to turn the mains down to chevy size for more connecting rod selection and or lightening of the crank. Lots of companies also make pistons for this combination. I have a few friends that run them on street cars and have well over 30000 miles on them. Motors are still running fresh.
For the record the 440 crank in the 400 with a .o30 over bore puts you around 451ci. And yes balancing is required.
Old 01-14-2012, 12:33 PM
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Does any one know how much advantage you have using a low deck 400 block with a 3.75 stroke bored .030 O. S. , over a high deck 440 block same stroke? And bored same size as the 400. which would be .050 O S on the 440. Is the 550 gram piston used in the 451 stroker a big advantage over the 770 gram K B piston weight used in a 440? Where is does the extra torque come from in a 400 stroker compared to a 440 the same displacement?
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