Newbie from SoCal
#1
Newbie from SoCal
Hi all. From So California and getting my first Mopar project. 67 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible. Needs some (ok...a lot) of TLC. Will post picutres when I can.
Hoping to be able to get technical and emotional advice from you all.
First question I have is where do you get parts for these cars. I am used to working on A body GM, and parts are so readily available. Who are the best parts vendors?
Hoping for a fun experience!
Hoping to be able to get technical and emotional advice from you all.
First question I have is where do you get parts for these cars. I am used to working on A body GM, and parts are so readily available. Who are the best parts vendors?
Hoping for a fun experience!
#2
Having just completed a full nut and bolt restoration of my '65 300 Convertible (see my post under Member's Rides), I can tell you it is a little challenging finding parts for C bodies. Luckily my car was 99% complete to start and had all of the original convertible-only parts and one-year only parts. Trim clips and the like, at least for my car, are not being reproduced so I had to find mine from NOS parts vendors and wrecking yards like Memory Lane in Wilmington, CA. Here are a couple vendors that cater to the C body crowd:
Gary Goers
Brad's NOS
Mitchell Motor Parts
Atlas Obsolete
Collectors Auto Supply
I also found a lot of stuff on eBay. In your case, just do a search for 1967 Plymouth. There should be quite a bit of parts for sale there.
You should also check out some C body specific sites for restoration tips from hobbyists that have restored these cars as well as parts for sale. I found these to be very helpful in my restoration:
www.cbodydrydock.com
www.moparfins.com
www.cbodyhomeport.yuku.com
Good luck with your restoration. Having also restored a '64 GTO, I can tell you restoring your Fury 'vert will be more challenging, cost more and take longer than restoring a GM A body.
When you get a chance please post some pics of your car. Welcome to the world of C bodies!
Gary Goers
Brad's NOS
Mitchell Motor Parts
Atlas Obsolete
Collectors Auto Supply
I also found a lot of stuff on eBay. In your case, just do a search for 1967 Plymouth. There should be quite a bit of parts for sale there.
You should also check out some C body specific sites for restoration tips from hobbyists that have restored these cars as well as parts for sale. I found these to be very helpful in my restoration:
www.cbodydrydock.com
www.moparfins.com
www.cbodyhomeport.yuku.com
Good luck with your restoration. Having also restored a '64 GTO, I can tell you restoring your Fury 'vert will be more challenging, cost more and take longer than restoring a GM A body.
When you get a chance please post some pics of your car. Welcome to the world of C bodies!
#3
Rexus
Thanks for the speedy reply. Great info already.
This car seems to be all there, minus a few emblems, but one never knows til we get into them.
Here's a couple of picutres of it when I found it.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Great info already.
This car seems to be all there, minus a few emblems, but one never knows til we get into them.
Here's a couple of picutres of it when I found it.
#7
Inside fabric of top and bows are black. Interior is white with black carpet. I'm not sure if the colors are correct. I know it's been painted at least once or twice. If someone can tell me the color for it, that would be great. Paint code is ZZ1 and the trim code is H6W.
It actually ran and drove it on my trailer. Does seem to be straight and no rust. Car has factory a/c, pwr windows, steering, brakes, top, sport wheels, commando 383/325, auto, full console.
It actually ran and drove it on my trailer. Does seem to be straight and no rust. Car has factory a/c, pwr windows, steering, brakes, top, sport wheels, commando 383/325, auto, full console.
#8
It looks like ZZ1 is Gold Poly.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...mouth-pg01.jpg
Here's the decode from MyMopar.com:
CAR: Unknown Make and Model.
ENGINE: 383cid 4-bbl HP V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: Unknown tire code
BUILD DATE: May 03.
AXLE: 3.23 Rear Axle Ratio, Sure Grip
INTERIOR: High Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. White on Black Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Gold Metallic Paint.
OTHER: White Horizontal Accent Stripe.
MOLDINGS:
ABC OPTIONS:
A1: 26in Radiator
B0: Unknown Option
K8: Power Windows
R3: Unknown Option
S1: Air Conditioning
Y1: Black Convertible Top
Z2: Unknown Option
abc OPTIONS:
a6: Console
b4: Bucket Seats
d6: Unknown Option
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
j4: Moulding - Boldy Sill Narrow
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...mouth-pg01.jpg
Here's the decode from MyMopar.com:
CAR: Unknown Make and Model.
ENGINE: 383cid 4-bbl HP V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: Unknown tire code
BUILD DATE: May 03.
AXLE: 3.23 Rear Axle Ratio, Sure Grip
INTERIOR: High Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. White on Black Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Gold Metallic Paint.
OTHER: White Horizontal Accent Stripe.
MOLDINGS:
ABC OPTIONS:
A1: 26in Radiator
B0: Unknown Option
K8: Power Windows
R3: Unknown Option
S1: Air Conditioning
Y1: Black Convertible Top
Z2: Unknown Option
abc OPTIONS:
a6: Console
b4: Bucket Seats
d6: Unknown Option
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
j4: Moulding - Boldy Sill Narrow
#10
I found the same website and data plate decoder. I came up with slightly different results, probably placement of numbers difference. The results I got seem more acurate.
CAR: Unknown Make and Model.
ENGINE: 383cid 4-bbl HP V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: Unknown tire code
BUILD DATE: May 03.
AXLE: 3.23 Rear Axle Ratio, Sure Grip
INTERIOR: High Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. White on Black Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Gold Metallic Paint.
OTHER: White Horizontal Accent Stripe.
MOLDINGS:
ABC OPTIONS:
A1: 26in Radiator
B0: Unknown Option
K8: Power Windows
R3: Unknown Option
S1: Air Conditioning
X1: Tinted Glass (all)
Y2: White Convertible Top
abc OPTIONS:
d6: Unknown Option
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
j4: Moulding - Boldy Sill Narrow
Don't know how far. I will have to assess the car to see what it needs. Who ever did the red paint tried to do it right at some time. Looks like it was painted white or cream then back to red (all without remoiving old colors) so that means at least two paint jobs. The red is on all the jams and firewall, so going back to original with really be a job.
CAR: Unknown Make and Model.
ENGINE: 383cid 4-bbl HP V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: Unknown tire code
BUILD DATE: May 03.
AXLE: 3.23 Rear Axle Ratio, Sure Grip
INTERIOR: High Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. White on Black Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Gold Metallic Paint.
OTHER: White Horizontal Accent Stripe.
MOLDINGS:
ABC OPTIONS:
A1: 26in Radiator
B0: Unknown Option
K8: Power Windows
R3: Unknown Option
S1: Air Conditioning
X1: Tinted Glass (all)
Y2: White Convertible Top
abc OPTIONS:
d6: Unknown Option
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
j4: Moulding - Boldy Sill Narrow
Don't know how far. I will have to assess the car to see what it needs. Who ever did the red paint tried to do it right at some time. Looks like it was painted white or cream then back to red (all without remoiving old colors) so that means at least two paint jobs. The red is on all the jams and firewall, so going back to original with really be a job.
#11
I'm not certain how it is on '67's but the engine bay is all exterior color on '65's. Here are a couple of shots of the restored engine bay of my '65 300 'vert.
It looks like whoever painted the car last blacked out the lower portion of the firewall, inner fenders and core support. The black out treatment may be original for a '67, I'm not sure. Maybe someone on here or one of the other forums I suggested could shed some light.
It looks like a fun project. I prefer to take them all the way down and bring them back to factory original, within reason. Good luck with your project. I look forward to seeing photos of your progress.
It looks like whoever painted the car last blacked out the lower portion of the firewall, inner fenders and core support. The black out treatment may be original for a '67, I'm not sure. Maybe someone on here or one of the other forums I suggested could shed some light.
It looks like a fun project. I prefer to take them all the way down and bring them back to factory original, within reason. Good luck with your project. I look forward to seeing photos of your progress.
#12
Thanks. Looking forward to get started. I prefer originality also. That will be the preferred route I plan to take. We'll see. I have a question looking at your engine bay concerning the routing of the heater hoses. My hoses run threw what looks like some kind of heater control, and then to the heater core. There is what looks like a heater control valve in the firewall just below the blower motor that is not hooked up. Can you tell me what routing the hoses are on yours. Here's a picture of what I mean.
By the way, your engine bay look great. I hope mine ends up like that!
By the way, your engine bay look great. I hope mine ends up like that!
#13
Thanks. I took a lot of time restoring the engine bay to make sure it was as accurate as possible in relation to the original. I took a couple creative liberties but overall I am pleased with the result. As for the heater hose routing, I can explain how it is on my car and post a pic but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the way it is on your car. To be sure, and really before you start taking anything apart, I would recommend getting the Factory Service Manual for your car. This will be an invaluable tool during your restoration. These can be found on eBay.
The pic below is of the same area on my car that you posted of yours. My heater control valve is located under the dash in the interior of the car on the passenger firewall near the kick panel.
The two nipples to the right of the blower motor (to heater core): One receives a hose from the one of the heater hose nipples from the front of the engine. The second loops into one of the nipples on the second set of nipples below (heater control valve). The other nipple from the heater control valve receives the hose from the other heater hose nipple at the front of the block. I hope that wasn't too confusing.
The pic below is of the same area on my car that you posted of yours. My heater control valve is located under the dash in the interior of the car on the passenger firewall near the kick panel.
The two nipples to the right of the blower motor (to heater core): One receives a hose from the one of the heater hose nipples from the front of the engine. The second loops into one of the nipples on the second set of nipples below (heater control valve). The other nipple from the heater control valve receives the hose from the other heater hose nipple at the front of the block. I hope that wasn't too confusing.
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