I HAVE A CHYRSLER 383 PROFESSIONALLY BUILT AND DYNO TUNED WITH QUICKFUEL SS780VS CARB, EDELBROCK PERFORMER #7186, CARB SPACER EDL 9266, HOLLEY MECHANICAL HP FUEL PUMP, MSD "READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR," PN8386, DOUGS HEADERS, AND COMP CAM 21-237-4.

ENGINE RUNS GREAT FOR 6 MILES, THEN BEGINS TO MISS AND STALL. NEED TO PUMP GAS TO RECOVER. EASY TO RESTART, BUT CONTINUES STALLING.

THEN PARKED HOT, AND RUN AT IDLE, IT STALLS AFTER A MINUTE WITH OBSERVED CONSTANT FUEL PRESSURE OF 7 LBS. AND ADEQUATE FUEL LEVELS AT THE CARBURETOR WINDOWS.

RAN WITH TANK OPEN, AIR CLEANER OFF, ENG TEMP 165 CONSTANT, AND CONSTANT IGNITION TIMING @ 16 DEGREES. THERE ARE INCHES OF CLEARANCE BETWEEN FUEL LINE AND EXHAUST SYSTEM.

WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THE STALLING ??

 

Got another ballast resistor you could try? That's where I'd start looking.

 

Thanks, I had a new one, but had a shorted ignition and fire since, then installed a fusable link. The ballast resistor may have been affected by the short.

 

this msd ignition kit is it complete, distributor, coil, ignition box?
or is your ignition system mixed ?
make sure that the coil is compatible with the distributor i have had this experience wrong coil with wrong distributor this happened to me in the past the coil over heated acted like carb but spark was weak and erratic and i had a short that was grounding through the coil and ignition box smoked a few boxes once i found the short problem solved and make sure the short is not effecting the coil in any way grounding through it bunt it
is the coil leaking oil
my mallory ignition is very specific in the coils that will work with it

 

Sorry, no change.

 

The MSD Ignition is the self contained "ready to run" without the remote module and I'm running a new ACELL Coil. I tried MSD on whether I should have a remote module with this ignition but still haven't gotten an answer. Probably should have their coil also, as you suggest.

 

Talked with MSD technical who suggested eliminating the ballast resister which actually serves no purpose for electronic ignition which requires the full 12 volts.

 

You sound like you know your stuff and have done the basics. I would recheck the items you assume as good.

1. re tune idle at the circuit with a vacuum guage when the motor is HOT. Do not tune for max rpm at idle tune for constant highest vacuum.
2. Recheck timing and dont hesitate to take some out and see how it responds. There is no typical timing for a custom built motor. There are baselines but combos all need different set ups.
3. Call quick fuel and get the fuel pressure they recommend.
4. Do you have a IR heat gun? If so shoot the coil and the carb and get readings.

 

Welcome!

 

welcome to the forum

 

PK 1:

Thanks for the contribution. Quickfuel recommends 6.25 psi to the carb. I know the coil is hot, but what is the nominal reading for the coil or carb ?

I have gone ahead and jumped the ballast resistor but I am concerned about overheating the coil.

As GORTS 5TH suggested, I will try a compatible MSD Blaster 2 coil and companion ballast resistor, #8200 with the MSD PN8386 Distributor. Specs indicate lower resistance in the MSD coil than the ACCEL #8140 currently installed.

Thanks all for the help.

PS: What's the trick to display of a Profile Picture ? File size ? File type ? Dimensions ?

 

https://moparforums.com/forums/f62/p...pictures-2128/

 

Installed companion MSD BLASTER 2, #8200 for good measure but also acted on advice from respondents and MSD Tech to bypass the ballast resistor since it was unnecessarily limiting full voltage the MSD PN 8386 "ready to run" ignition distributor.


Ordered Engine - CME 5/26/11
Receive Engine - 09/28/11
Start Engine - 02/21/12
Header Coolant leaks
Ebay Ignition Switch Fire
Purchase parts car
Install Fusable link
Stalling problems
Break right arm
By pass Ballast Resistor
Test run 10 miles in 85 degrees.
Today 06/30/12 @ 11:09 AM - Success, Engine done !

Thanks again to all !

A problem that acted like vapor lock to a problem of low voltage to the MSD full voltage ignition system. Next time trust the directions ?

 

I would bet it was the coil that fixed your problem..

 

So you broke your arm?

 

Yep I would say so... any hei type conversion/cdi needs a full 12 volts....

 

I soldered a jumper wire between the contacts of resistor to maintain the stock appearance of the wiring. Never seen a ballast resistor eliminated on a mopar before, regardless of ignition.

I bought the car originally with a PERTRONIX electronic ignition (not an HEI) using the stock distributor, coil and ballast resistor.

MSD must be an electronic ignition all its own or HEI the difference. The MSD "HEI" PN 8386 Distributor instruction diagram show the ballast resistor wired but then print a note stating to bypass it.

I'll be watching the coil for overheating and leaking.

 

If you do a GM type HEI conversion, the ballast is not used...The Pertonix EI is a drop in points replacement.Just by doing a search on the coil, in the install instructions, IF using the MSD 6 or 7 it is plainly diagrammed that the ballast is NOT used. (figure #3) But now you know, and I doubt you will have coil overheating, or oil leaking....