more out of 5.9l 360 magnum

Old Jan 21, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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more out of 5.9l 360 magnum

I am wondering what upgrades I could do to my 5.9l mopar 360 magnum 405hp version for more performance without breaking the bank?
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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The advertised duration is 288/292, do you know the lift?

The first answer is camshaft.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 04:28 AM
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All I know is what's on here.
http://www.moparproshop.com/inc/sdetail/6202/4515
engine came with the car
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:18 PM
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Won't break the bank with nitrous, might break something else though.

First find out cast or forged crank and ring end gap.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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What is the rest of the car set up with ??
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:02 PM
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Not looking to run nitrous just a powerful street car. Manual transmission steering and brakes 8 3/4 rear end redone front end. 72 duster
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:20 AM
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I really believe you are at the upper end for 360 HP and streetability. All the stuff in/on that engine is just what I would want/build and the cam I might have gone a step below.

More than 400hp from a 360 is now getting into the forged crank drag race engine category. Have you any driving performance data, E.T. or seat of the pants feel to gauge wanting more power.

The next step would be solid roller cam with high cost or turbocharging that compression could make difficult.

Personally 400hp in a small street car would make me very happy.

Dan.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:27 AM
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Thanks for the input I was just curious what I could do later on unless there was some cheap easy stuff I could do now. I am very happy with it and the fact that it'll pin you to the seat if you hit the gas. All I'm doing to it now is getting new headers, still trying to figure out the best size.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:34 AM
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Would a carb spacer do anything
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 07:36 AM
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I didn't suggest head work or blueprint like the guys at B Bodies 'cause I got the impression you didn't want to dig in that deep. I said minimum 1 3/4" for headers, I'd be looking at 1 7/8" stepped or 2" for future improvement as it seems like you may want more.

I think you said it came with an 850 cfm carb and the engine builder recommended a 750? Which ever carb you find, with or without carb spacer, works best the best performance gain you will see is with fine tuning of your air/fuel mixture and igniton timing. If it has the MP distributor you might want to look into one of distributors that has the GM style advance weights under the rotor. My son has one in his Ford and it's a breeze to change springs and limiting bushings to fine tune the ignition curve.

At this point carb spacers could be tried and with an O2 sensor you could get it to it's peak while logging fail/success data.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 10:20 AM
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The guys on a bodies recommend an edelbrock air gap with holley 750 and 1" open carb spacer. Over the m1 with demon 850. What are your thoughts?
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:19 AM
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What about tti 1-7/8 race headers
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 01:40 PM
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You didn't say what gears ??? For that kind of money it should have a forged crank..
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Idk on the gears at the moment. Is there an easy way to find out
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bully62
Idk on the gears at the moment. Is there an easy way to find out
Mark the tires and driveshaft. Put it on stands and in neutral, spin the tires one revolution while counting the driveshaft revs. There's your ratio. By the way, those are some big headers for only 360CID, I don't think those are limiting your power, nor is the camshaft. The heads have got to be the cork, pull 'em and have at it. Also, I'd drop a holley 750dp on it in an instant, so much fun.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 05:30 PM
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Dyno test, similar engine, 770 vacuum secondary.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...block-intakes/
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