Hello Everyone,

This is my first “Project Car” I don't claim to know everythingand I apologize ahead of time for that. I am rebuilding just about everythingin this car Engine, Transmission, Rear End, Suspension, whole car harness, EVERYTHING.This thread will be build log and pics once I get started but for right now Iwill be listing all the parts I would like to put in this and am happy forsuggestions, questions Ext. (no engine or transmission swaps… Sorry 360s)

I recently purchased a 1979 Dodge Aspen: 318 V8, 904 Torqueflight,8.25 Rear end, decent Body and Frame (frame hole already fixed) Redone interiorall for $3800. This will be my dally driver in WI from April/May to October butas everyone else will agree what’s the fun without POWER & SMOKE! I do havea limited budget and I would like to reuse as much as possible (IE not a showcar) but this will take me about a year to accomplish so I’ll be working on onething at a time.

Engine:

• Stock318: Hot Tank/Jet Wash, Magnaflux, Resurface, Parallel & Square, Align-honeMain Bearing, Bored .030 Over, Hone w/ Deck Plates and Pressure Tested.
• Stock Crank: Grind Crank, Magnaflux, Chamfer Oil Holes, CrossDrill Main Journals.
• Stock Rods, WaterPump, Fuel Pump, Oil Pump, Pan Ext.
• Edelbrock SuperVictor Ported Intake
• LA StyleINDY "X" Heads W/ 1.92" INT, 1.620" EXH
• (HUG 20301A)
• SB1.5 Rocker Arm Kit W/ Shafts
• (HUG 15023)
• SBRocker Hold Down Stud Kit
• (HUG 7440)
• SBHyd Flat Tapped Cam 228/232 -108ºLSA
• LIFT.353"/.357"
• (HUG SEH2832AL-10)
• ARP12pt Eng & Acc Kit Fasteners
• (ARP 544-9501)
• KB HypereutecticFlat Top Piston Set 3.940"
• (KBP KB167.030)
• SealedPower Moly Ring Set 3.940"
• (SEA E178K030)
• HighPerformance Hydraulic Lifters
• (HUG 5003)
• Fel-ProGasket Kit Set
• (FEL-KS2108)
• 7.500"X 5/16" DIA X .049" Wall Pushrod
• (HUG 5479M)
• MSDIgnition Kit (Distributer, Coil, 6 Box, Wires, Spark Plugs)
• HolleyUltra Double Pumper 750 CFM
• (HLY-0-76750RD)
• Flex-a-liteWide Blade Flex Fan
• (FLX-1308)
• HaydenFan Clutch
• (HDA-2747)
• MoparPerformance Valve Covers & Breathers
• (DCC-5007611 & DCC-4529880)

If I forgot anything let me know.

A-904 Torqueflight Transmission is going to be rebuilt by a “LocalGuy” for me with specifications:

• 3000RPM Stall Torque Converter
• CompleteMaster Overhaul/Race Kit
• ReverseManual Valve Body
• OtherParts Are Good?

8.25 Chrysler Rear End:

• USAStandard Gear Ring and Pinion Set 4.11:1
• (SPZ-36011)
• USAStandard Gear Spartan Locker
• (SPZ-17037)
• YukonGear & Axle Master Overhaul Kit
• (YGA-14204)

Suspension:

• FirmFeel F Body Suspension Package 3

If you have gotten this far thank you very much for your time, Can’twait to start this ****!

 

Welcome. I like it, there's only one thing I might change.

With the transmission and rear gear it should shock the chassis and with the power from the engine top end the stock crank and rods are now the weak link.

With all the money being spent I would seriously look for a steel crank and minimum 360 rods.

This is the type of build I'm considering next, many won't agree with strokers more popular now. I just like the days of all the big 3 manufacturers 300 -350 c.i. high rpm screamers making lots of power with less weight. It is far easier today with better heads available and modern camshaft design.

Good luck, I'll be watching.

 

Welcome to forum, I like the 70s F body's.

 

I know, the stock Crank and Rods are not as beefy as I would like but I have a budget for this winter and anything more then about $4,200 is going to be too steep especially because I still have to take care of sending the block in to get machined... However, I am not dumb and took a look around, would these be a option:

SCAT PREMIUM PRO COMP 4340 "I" BEAM RODS (BUSHED)
(2-ICR6123-2124)
Eagle ESP Cast Steel Crankshafts
(103403310)

I really don't think Ill be making over 450 hp and to tell you the truth I am betting on it because this whole car will fall apart especially the 8.25 rear end (cant for the life of me find a good used 8.75 for cheep) if I make more then that. Not to mention I beat everything I ever drive.

 

I like the rods but cast crank I'd stay with the OEM crank.

My thinking on this is hold off spending money on the top end, buy a forged steel crank and build a solid foundation now. The top end parts can easily be changed later when the funds become available.

 

I used a 60s B body 8 3/4 in my Volare.

 

So you really don't think the OEM crank will handle that? ok... as for the rear end I've checked craigslist, all the surrounding scrap/junkyards 50 miles + I just haven't had any luck.

 

http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar...-/201189587116
this is the only one I have found forged in my price range. I am kinda a stickler for new but do you think this is worth it?

 

You will have to find a yard that handles the older stuff, the late model yards just crush the old cars. Look for a complete axel then rebuild the center with the gears and diff you want. In the long run its worth the effort.

There is a two day Mopar event a Cedar Falls Raceway next weekend, I'll ask around and see if I can come up with something.

 

That would be amazing thank you!

 

Alright I took your advice Coronet 500, And your right btw With the way I drive my cars Forged Internals would be a safe bet but I would have to swap the Hughes Engine 360 Indy X heads for my stock 318 heads. I am just curious if Ill have any issues with the stock valve train with that cam and High compression Ill get out of the flat top forged pistons? Now don't get me wrong Ill put those heads and valve train on later but I have build the engine before I do anything else (the Aspen will be in storage not the engine). I have my budget planned out till June; transmission, rear end, rewire, suspension.


Thanks for your help!

 

The 318 heads won't take more than .450" lift, guides can be cut down easily with a comp cam tool. Springs won't take much more than a stock cam. Rockers will be OK, pushrods good to 5500 rpm.

All that said how about one of the Summit brand cam kits, 110 dollars cam and lifters for now with a cast iron 4 barrel manifold.

 

Yeah I did see that But what sucks is its cheaper by like $800 to get the Hughes Engines Stroker Kit for close to $2000. Then I can get new springs, Bigger Valves, Rocker Kit, Rocker hold down Kit, Retainers, Locks and push rods for the same price as the original parts list, which would fix the head problem But I really dont want a stroker due to the fact that this will be a daily driver.

 

Sounds great to me, but I think I would just get a 360.

 

 

Alright I think I've decide what to do Ill scrap using aftermarket 360 heads and just build a 390 with bigger valve, overported 318 stock heads. I will be pulling the motor the 28th and the 29th of this month so expect lots of pictures.

Thank you all for the help so far, expect a lot more posts and questions!

 

There are better heads to start with than your 318 heads, 360 heads have much larger ports. Buy the time you get vales, springs, keepers, and retainers do a valve job, surface the heads etc. your going to have a large chunk of the aftermarket heads covered.

$low down your build and get the heads!