Well I wanted to go from 2 bbl to 4 bbl on the 68 newport. I was given the oem 4 bbl manifold and 4 bbl holley 4160 that usually came on the 4 bbl 383 packages. Is there any special adapters I would need for the kickdown or throttle as far as brackets or anything like that.

 

Depends on what carb it has ? Big Holley two bbl ? There may be enough adjustment
Other wise you need to change the bracket that bolts to the manifold and the rod that goes to the carb for a four bbl version

 

it currently has the carter 2 bbl on it

 

your opening a can of worms. keep the 2 bbl.

 

I don't get it Moe, your always saying do it like Chrysler did it and that's whats happening here, I see no can of worms.

 

so just make a list of ALL the parts that are diff from 2 bbl to 4 bbl. ill bet 90% of mopar guys really know how many pt that is . THAT is my point. you CAN do a proper converson, but i have seen only ONE. if you can do a proper one iam glad for you. like i have said most guys dont know that when chrysler does something it is a SYSTEM, not a cam and carb.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Throttle-...03da39&vxp=mtr

 

i have seen the ststem, that looks looks a very good system. and the price looks good to. i would use it if i need to. the mistake most people do is using 2 bbl cable and bracket and trans linkage, and try to make it fit a 4 bbl carb. the pull pin on a 4 bbl is more forward and to the left. all so i suspect that some 383-440 manifolds dont have a flat spot for a A / C bracket. just a suspection. have seen it only once. just something to keep in mind. find am old parts book and look at the 2 bbl and 4 bbl parts there IS a difference.

 

In my opinion only....I would not waste my time putting a 4 BBL Intake and Carb, on to a Factory 2 BBL Engine that is still using the 2 BBL Camshaft.
Insufficient Cam events on the 2 BBL Camshaft.... to make any "use" of the 4 BBL.

 

Depending on what parts you get.................

The bores on older manifolds might interfere with larger bore carbs, requiring some sort of spacer / adapter

Older manifolds built for the earlier AFB have the "narrow" bolt pattern. AFBs normally come drilled for BOTH "narrow" and "wide" (Holley) patterns. If you are putting a Holley on such a manifold, it requires an adapter

I'm not afraid of this..........I've spend all my life doing backyard crap. But if you are a little less mechanical, or have a little less junk box you might paint yourself into a corner.

Some carbs/ some manifolds combinations can generate interesting interference issues, like part of the throttle arm hitting the choke housing, or interfering with EGR valves, and so on.

 

For the kickdown, you can just use a coupler and a piece of redi-rod ("All-Thread") to lengthen it, if there isn't enough adjustment in your 2bbl setup. You may have to change the throttle cable...4bbl one might be longer.

 

There is a specific adapter for Mopar use. Bolts to the carb linkages. Gives the correct throw for kickdown and placement of throttle
not mandatory with manual.
Maybe he is planning a cam swap later !!!

 

I your opinion what type of cam would you recommend, nothing crazy mild is good. Also would I need to change the lifters as well, I do already have a double roller timing chain I bought a while ago.

 

How about a Comp Cams XE 256 H.

Yes you MUST use new lifters on a new cam, might want to put new valve springs in as those 45yr old ones have probably seen there last days.

 

I have the factory gears in the rear end can I leave that for now? Also the Edlebrock 2086 Top End package its $2000, if I were to go that far I am looking at major alterations to the rest of the car as far as the rear and trans. I really only want to do the carb, cam, intake, lifters and the springs but there is so much stuff out there and I am still learning. Jegs has many kits but I am lookng for something to where I don't have to change the stall converter. I only wanted to get to around what the 4 bbl newports had which was around 330. I have the headers and am buying the dual exhaust from tti. Also I will be replacing the mounts as well which I already have. I appreciate the help from everyone.

 

Not true!

Years ago, while rebuilding a 383 Magnum, I installed a temporary 383/2bbl, drove it for a while then, installed the factory Magnum 4bbl intake and carb...
Made lots of difference!
The 2bbl will run out of fuel in the upper RPM range, the 4bbl extended the RPM range, and the car actually ran very well!
It wasn't a race car but, the difference was very noticeable!

 

Well here is the Intake and carb, it is a holley 4160 square bore, and the intake is a spread bore but I found a holley adapter plate so it will fit. Here is the comp cams kit I was going to buy also:
Here are some pics:

 

just my opinion toss the holley. get an O.E.M. AFB or AVS. AND do NOT use hose from the pump to carb. DO make steel tubing for that. unless you want a fire.

 

That will work just fine !!!!!
Run It !!!!

 

I do have a question about the comp cams kit it says it requires the heads to be machined is it necessary or a suggestion. Also I was thinking about a edlebrock 1405 600cfm for that intake also, not sure about the holley, still have to rebuild and I bought it for $40 so might have some other problems inside still have to crack it open.

 

TVLynn...do you or does anyone else here have the part# for the adapter you mention?I am swapping 2bb for a stock correct number factory 4bbl (4401s AVS/#2806301 manifold)on '68 Newport.

 

These are what I bought a jegs tech gave me the part numbers, http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8007/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1481/10002/-1