Hello all,

I have a 1966 A100, with a random 318 built from spare parts. Probably 60k miles since I built it, with no significant problems. All late 60's to early 70's parts, except for the brand new carburetor. (Chinese junk off ebay)

The problems started with the inability to go over about 60 mph on flat land, lower on hills. It didn't really run out of power. It felt more like it was running out of gas. I had half the throttle left, but it would sputter and start to die if I gave it more. It had fully normal power up to the point where it started to die. It's a project van, not a daily driver, so I wasn't in a big hurry to figure it out. The top speed slowly dropped until it wouldn't go 45, where I finally started doing something about it.

Since then, I've replaced the cap. rotor, coil, carburetor, fuel pump (electric), and all 3 fuel filters, including the one in the tank, which I completely drained in the process. I also hot wired the ballast resistor. Not only did it not improve, but it kept getting worse. On Wednesday, it gave out completely. Wouldn't go past 20 mph for a while, then suddenly shut off like a switch, and wouldn't even try to start. It just spun, and wouldn't catch. That's when I replaced the points. It instantly improved enough that it would go 60 again, but still had the same problem above that. Then it deteriorated much faster. As of last night, it now idles rough, it drives exactly like it would with the choke stuck (it's not), it won't go past 10mph, it has no power at all, and it stalls in a minute or so. It then won't restart until it cools down. (no, it's not running hot) I put in my last replacement part (condenser), and it didn't help.

It's an A100, so I can adjust the timing as I drive. Nothing obvious changes from about 5B to 15A, except it's more likely to start with more advance. I can also watch the fuel filter, and it's getting gas. But when it died last night, the gas was milky white. I assume I got water in there somehow, so I drained and refilled it. No noticeable improvement, but I'm sure that could take some time. It just seems like too much of a coincidence that I burned out the points, then got water in the gas, one day apart. That's only the second set of points, and first wet gas, in 15 years. It certainly wasn't the gas when this all started.

So my question is, what am I missing? What else is there? I've replaced almost the entire fuel and ignition systems. I've told myself "this must be it" a dozen times this week, but it keeps getting worse. Today, I'll change the plugs and wires, dump in some HEET, and hopefully let it burn through a couple gallons of clean gas. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm completely out of ideas.

 

could a fuel line be touching or lying across something hot? sounds similar to my vw bug when it used to get vapor lock... other than that, i guess i'd try an elec dizzy/ignition and see.

 

The fuel lines are as far away from heat as they can get. All the line in the engine box is rubber, so I ran it a few different ways, with no changes.

I found some of the problem. For reasons I can't begin to understand, the new points won't hold a gap. I don't mean years, or months... It was closing from .02" to ~.003" in 5-10 miles. I re-gapped it, it ran for a while, then back to useless. There's just no way to get that screw tight enough, or grease the cam enough, to make it stay put. But it got me home, 6 miles and 2 re-gappings later. I cleaned up the old points the best I could, and put them back in. After finally burning off whatever the water left in the system, it's back to doing 45, with a little hesitation. It still cuts out above that. Hopefully it holds. For now, I'll count it as a win, even though I'm not quite back to where I was on Tuesday. But at least it'll move under it's own power. I guess the points and the water were just a really weird coincidence. I'll get to the plugs next weekend. I'm tired of thinking about this.

 

You mention that the points won't hold the gap. Are the points moving or is there play in the distributor shaft? Have you hooked a dwell meter to it and see how steady that reading is? When you have the timing light on it, is the timing pretty steady?

 

As far as the points go I’ve heard that the new Chinese parts are junk. The material that the plastic rub block is manufactured with is to soft and can wear quickly, try a good set of points.

 

that's exactly what happened to my fury way back when. wouldnt stay set for a whole block lol. that's why i went elec, ugh.

 

I had the same trouble with my old Ford tractor. I converted it to electronic and its never run better,

 

Is the fuel pump mounted back near the fuel tank? Electric pumps are better pushers and not good pullers! mechanical pumps are better pullers, just an FYI .... Also Check the fuel pressure.
Make sure the coil is getting the correct voltage.... If it needs the resister? put it back inline.... Could be overheating the Ignition Coil....
Check the Distributor and make sure the shaft bushing is not worn out, and the advance plate is not stuck.

On a side note, Check to see if the timing chain has allot of slop in it?

Clean and fresh fuel in the system is always best for chasing issue....

Best of luck... Cheers

 

have you tried swapping out to a known good distributor? I wouldn't trust anything aftermarket.

 

Step 1 I wouldn't hot wire the ballast resistor.
Step 2 Milky fuel is most likely water but could be air getting sucked in through a line (check that)
step 3 3 Fuel filters (why so many?) It may be reducing pressure. A carb needs little pressure under 8 lbs. is good.
step 4 Jumped timing. Put #1 at TDC and place your harmonic balancer at zero on the timing tab. If it is move it backwards checking how many degrees you have to
move the harmonic balancer before you get rotation in the distributor. You can do this by going clockwise and back. 1 1/4 inch socket