65 Fury III issues
12-06-2011, 02:38 PM
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65 Fury III issues
Been having a heck of a time trying to figure out whats wrong with my ride. Whenever the car is running, my interior lights, tail lights, and head lights have been dimming in and out. Also the car loses spark and has trouble starting, usually i have to wait anywhere between 5- 30 mins before the car starts back up. Sometimes it will stay running and then at other times it with stall back out right away. Ive pulled the alternator and tested it on our bench tester at work and it passed as a working alternator. Ive also replaced the voltage regulator, ignition coil, spark plugs, ballast resistor and yet nothing has helped the problem. I also tightened up the belts on the alternator and that didnt help either...
This has become a big headache and dont know what else to do, any suggestions would be awesome!
Also when I turn the key to the on position( w/o starting the motor), i can hear something clicking/running and my alternator gauge will dip... Im lost
This has become a big headache and dont know what else to do, any suggestions would be awesome!
Also when I turn the key to the on position( w/o starting the motor), i can hear something clicking/running and my alternator gauge will dip... Im lost
12-06-2011, 04:21 PM
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12-06-2011, 05:04 PM
#4
First thing to suspect is a voltage drop problem, and first component to suspect is the bulkhead/ firewall connector.
Get yourself a meter. You can buy one that's "good enough" and Radio Shack or any parts store for 25-30 bucks, and anyone doing their own work should already have one.
One troubled path nowadays is the dark blue "ignition run" wire which supplies the ignition systm and regulator IGN terminal, and on newer cars, also supplies the electric choke if used, and maybe a couple of other items.
To check this path, which is battery -- fuse link--bulkhead connector--ignition switch connector--through the switch--back OUT the ign switch connector, and back OUT the bulkhead connector on the dark blue, --and to the coil resistor and regulator.
So turn the key to "run" with engine OFF. Put one meter probe directly onto your battery positive post, the other probe on the regulator "IGN terminal, or the ign switch side of the coil ballast resistor.
IF you have points type ignition, FIRST make sure the points are CLOSED. To do this, put one probe on the coil NEG terminal, the other on ground. You should get a fairly low reading. If you get battery voltage, the points are open, so bump the engine until the voltage goes low
With the probes as originally described, you are looking for a very low reading. over .2V (two TENTHS of a volt) is getting "up there", and 1/2 volt is too much.
This indicates you have a poor connection in that path, and the bulkhead connector is the no1 culprit
AFTER you get this fixed, check your charging voltage.
Do so by putting your meter directly onto the battery posts. IT should be no lower than 13.5, no higher than 14.5. This is with the engine warmed up (which also warms the regulator) and with the battery "normalized" and all accessories off
Notice if you are still getting pulsation up or down in the meter reading, and check agaiin with lights, heater, etc, on.
Now check for voltage drop in the GROUND side of the regualtor circuit.
With the engine running as above, to simulate "low to medium cruise" RPM, stick on probe of your meter right on the battery NEG post. Stick the other on the metal case of the regulator, be sure to "stab" through any paint, rust, or chrome.
Once more, you are looking for a VERY low reading. OVER .2V is too much and indicates a poor ground in the regulator circuit.
My 67 Dart, before I rewired it, had 1/2/v drop in the blue wire supplying the regulator
Now, turn on as much load as you can, lights, heater, etc.
Stick one probe on the battery positive post, the other probe on the alternator output stud. You should have no more than around 1/2-1 volt drop here. Once more, if you have much voltage there, the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR OR something in the ammeter circuit is bad.
Get yourself a meter. You can buy one that's "good enough" and Radio Shack or any parts store for 25-30 bucks, and anyone doing their own work should already have one.
One troubled path nowadays is the dark blue "ignition run" wire which supplies the ignition systm and regulator IGN terminal, and on newer cars, also supplies the electric choke if used, and maybe a couple of other items.
To check this path, which is battery -- fuse link--bulkhead connector--ignition switch connector--through the switch--back OUT the ign switch connector, and back OUT the bulkhead connector on the dark blue, --and to the coil resistor and regulator.
So turn the key to "run" with engine OFF. Put one meter probe directly onto your battery positive post, the other probe on the regulator "IGN terminal, or the ign switch side of the coil ballast resistor.
IF you have points type ignition, FIRST make sure the points are CLOSED. To do this, put one probe on the coil NEG terminal, the other on ground. You should get a fairly low reading. If you get battery voltage, the points are open, so bump the engine until the voltage goes low
With the probes as originally described, you are looking for a very low reading. over .2V (two TENTHS of a volt) is getting "up there", and 1/2 volt is too much.
This indicates you have a poor connection in that path, and the bulkhead connector is the no1 culprit
AFTER you get this fixed, check your charging voltage.
Do so by putting your meter directly onto the battery posts. IT should be no lower than 13.5, no higher than 14.5. This is with the engine warmed up (which also warms the regulator) and with the battery "normalized" and all accessories off
Notice if you are still getting pulsation up or down in the meter reading, and check agaiin with lights, heater, etc, on.
Now check for voltage drop in the GROUND side of the regualtor circuit.
With the engine running as above, to simulate "low to medium cruise" RPM, stick on probe of your meter right on the battery NEG post. Stick the other on the metal case of the regulator, be sure to "stab" through any paint, rust, or chrome.
Once more, you are looking for a VERY low reading. OVER .2V is too much and indicates a poor ground in the regulator circuit.
My 67 Dart, before I rewired it, had 1/2/v drop in the blue wire supplying the regulator
Now, turn on as much load as you can, lights, heater, etc.
Stick one probe on the battery positive post, the other probe on the alternator output stud. You should have no more than around 1/2-1 volt drop here. Once more, if you have much voltage there, the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR OR something in the ammeter circuit is bad.
12-07-2011, 07:48 AM
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Yea i forgot to add that I replaced the battery also with an optima yellow top, still problem persists.
@roadrunner, thanks for the info, I appreciate it because I am stumped and wiring is not my strong point, I will have to check it out
@roadrunner, thanks for the info, I appreciate it because I am stumped and wiring is not my strong point, I will have to check it out
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