Complete rewire for 66 D200 camper special
Complete rewire for 66 D200 camper special
Hey guys so I recently bought this truck form the second owner. It has needed a little work but nothing to serious yet. My problem is that the second owner did a complete hack and slash job when he wired in an after market fuel gauge, vacuum gauge, new blinker switch, and a pos little stereo.
So to the question...
I want to do a complete tear out and rewire of the entire interior so I know everything is wired correctly and I know what works and what doesn't.
Does anyone have any diagrams, advice, or anything at all to contribute? I have done hundreds of stereo installs but this is on a whole other level and I can't find anything about it to help me
So to the question...
I want to do a complete tear out and rewire of the entire interior so I know everything is wired correctly and I know what works and what doesn't.
Does anyone have any diagrams, advice, or anything at all to contribute? I have done hundreds of stereo installs but this is on a whole other level and I can't find anything about it to help me
Sorry, disagree. The bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit on all these old girls suffers from the same problems. If I was going to re-wire an old Mopar, and was not concerned about exact restoration details, there is no-way-in-hell that I'd keep the bulkhead connector, nor the ammeter circuit.
Investigate "American Autowire" for a somwhat more reasonable priced alternative to Painless or Ron Francis. If you can round up repair materials for the various proprietary connectors, such as terminals, just take your time and do it.
This MAD article is the defacto bottom line on the problems with bulkhead connectors and the ammeter circuit in all the old Mopar cars and trucks
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Also consider getting a fused relay box under the hood like most modern cars and pickups use. I found one out of a Plymouth Voyager which I use in my car, and use the relays to run ignition/ regulator, headlights, fuel pump, etc, so that no big current has to go back and forth into/ out of the car interior, and there is now no longer heavy loads on the ignition switch, headlight switch, etc.
There are also "in between" ways of dealing with the problem. You can run wires right through in place of the connectors, keeping it looking fairly factory. Some of the connectors, like the wipers, may not need to be eliminated, just cleaned up and checked over.
And if you are going to keep the pu all stock, with a 35--45 amp alternator, you might be able to repair/ clean the ammeter circuit and be OK there as well. But that ain't fer me!!!!
Investigate "American Autowire" for a somwhat more reasonable priced alternative to Painless or Ron Francis. If you can round up repair materials for the various proprietary connectors, such as terminals, just take your time and do it.
This MAD article is the defacto bottom line on the problems with bulkhead connectors and the ammeter circuit in all the old Mopar cars and trucks
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Also consider getting a fused relay box under the hood like most modern cars and pickups use. I found one out of a Plymouth Voyager which I use in my car, and use the relays to run ignition/ regulator, headlights, fuel pump, etc, so that no big current has to go back and forth into/ out of the car interior, and there is now no longer heavy loads on the ignition switch, headlight switch, etc.
There are also "in between" ways of dealing with the problem. You can run wires right through in place of the connectors, keeping it looking fairly factory. Some of the connectors, like the wipers, may not need to be eliminated, just cleaned up and checked over.
And if you are going to keep the pu all stock, with a 35--45 amp alternator, you might be able to repair/ clean the ammeter circuit and be OK there as well. But that ain't fer me!!!!
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