Converting to electronic ignition question
01-21-2008, 05:26 PM
#1
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Posts: n/a
Converting to electronic ignition question
Hi, I have a 1979 dodge aspen 318 2 barrel with the spark control computer. Recently the ignition system has been acting up so I decided to convert to the ecu ignition. Instead of buying the kit, I decided to make my own out of unused parts of another aspen(parts are new). My question is that should i be using a dual ballast, and where do my start and run wires run from, to? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
01-25-2008, 11:25 PM
#4
I did find this page:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/lea...rn-article.htm
So far as timing, I would say yes, for at least two or three reasons.
First, those systems tended to run very retarded, because of smog/emissions laws.
Second, the advance was controlled by the lean burn system
Third, the new system is controlled by the old fashioned advance weights, and vacuum, just like the points systems.
Depending on compression ratio, camshaft, and fuel quality, you can tolerate different amounts of advance, and you will have to experiment.
I'd start with at least 5BTC, maybe as much as 10
I used to degree the balancer, so I could wind the engine and check for full advance with the vacuum disconnected. Again, depending, maybe 35-40deg or so.
First, you should make sure TDC is correct on the wheel. This is easy. Take an old sparkplug, clamp in a vise, and saw around the outside crimp just behind the hex. Take a punch or bolt, and drive the guts out, and cut/file off the ground electrode. Now weld, braze, or epoxy an nut into the plug shell and run a bolt in so it sticks out some amount, not important, say, 1 1/2" or so. You might have to adjust this. Put a second nut on the back to "jam" and lock the bolt.
Here's a picture I "stole" off the ol www. Looks exactly like my old one:
Now, CAREFULLY feel around in no1 cylinder through the plug hole, with a probe, like a piece of coathanger. Make sure you have "room." Install the stop you have make.
Take a wrench on the front balancer bolt, and CAREFULLY turn over the engine SLOWLY, till the engine stops on your bolt. Make an accurate pencil mark on the WHEEL right under the TDC mark on the timing plate.
Now, rotate the engine the OPPOSITE way, until it stops again. Make a SECOND mark on the wheel right under TDC on the plate.
When you get done, you will have two new temporary marks on the wheel.
Here is a page by Isky cams, that shows doing this with the head removed. The only difference is, you are using a stop through the spark plug hole
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html
For more info, Google stuff like TDC, "positive stop"
IF YOUR FACTORY MARK on the wheel is accurate, it wil be EXACTLY between the two marks you just made. You can check this with carefull measurement, or just a pair of dividers.
Degreeing the wheel is easy. Get yourself in a good mood. There are a couple of checks you can make to be sure you are accurate.
First, get a very flexible tape measure, like your Mom would use for sewing, and CAREFULLLY measure all the way around the outside of the wheel. Do this VERY carefully, relax, and do it TWICE.
Now you can calculate the "degrees per inch" of the wheel.
Let's say the wheel was 18 inches
You divide 18 / 360 = .05"
That means that a mark placed .05" away from the TDC mark on the wheel will be 1 degree on the wheel
10 degrees would be 10 X .05 = .5"
Now, you can check your math. Take a pair of dividers, and mark off with the tape onto your dividers, the figure you have come up with for 10 degrees, in this case .5" (1/2 inch)
With your dividers, mark off this distance from TDC on the wheel.
Now, to check your work, carefully, with a wrench on the front balancer nut, rotate the engine CAREFULLY until it is EXACTLY on TDC.
Your brand new mark you made on the wheel should be DIRECTLY UNDER the 10 deg. mark on the timing plate!!
Once you are sure you have done this correctly, now you can take your dividers, and carefully mark off every 10 degrees, and when you get done, if you want, you can mark off every 5, too, then scribe and file them permanent.
Now, when you want to know if the advance system is working, you can SEE it right on the wheel, all the way up to 50-60 degrees. Older Fords had the wheels marked up to 30 deg. I've never figured out why Ford stopped at 30
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/lea...rn-article.htm
So far as timing, I would say yes, for at least two or three reasons.
First, those systems tended to run very retarded, because of smog/emissions laws.
Second, the advance was controlled by the lean burn system
Third, the new system is controlled by the old fashioned advance weights, and vacuum, just like the points systems.
Depending on compression ratio, camshaft, and fuel quality, you can tolerate different amounts of advance, and you will have to experiment.
I'd start with at least 5BTC, maybe as much as 10
I used to degree the balancer, so I could wind the engine and check for full advance with the vacuum disconnected. Again, depending, maybe 35-40deg or so.
First, you should make sure TDC is correct on the wheel. This is easy. Take an old sparkplug, clamp in a vise, and saw around the outside crimp just behind the hex. Take a punch or bolt, and drive the guts out, and cut/file off the ground electrode. Now weld, braze, or epoxy an nut into the plug shell and run a bolt in so it sticks out some amount, not important, say, 1 1/2" or so. You might have to adjust this. Put a second nut on the back to "jam" and lock the bolt.
Here's a picture I "stole" off the ol www. Looks exactly like my old one:
Now, CAREFULLY feel around in no1 cylinder through the plug hole, with a probe, like a piece of coathanger. Make sure you have "room." Install the stop you have make.
Take a wrench on the front balancer bolt, and CAREFULLY turn over the engine SLOWLY, till the engine stops on your bolt. Make an accurate pencil mark on the WHEEL right under the TDC mark on the timing plate.
Now, rotate the engine the OPPOSITE way, until it stops again. Make a SECOND mark on the wheel right under TDC on the plate.
When you get done, you will have two new temporary marks on the wheel.
Here is a page by Isky cams, that shows doing this with the head removed. The only difference is, you are using a stop through the spark plug hole
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html
For more info, Google stuff like TDC, "positive stop"
IF YOUR FACTORY MARK on the wheel is accurate, it wil be EXACTLY between the two marks you just made. You can check this with carefull measurement, or just a pair of dividers.
Degreeing the wheel is easy. Get yourself in a good mood. There are a couple of checks you can make to be sure you are accurate.
First, get a very flexible tape measure, like your Mom would use for sewing, and CAREFULLLY measure all the way around the outside of the wheel. Do this VERY carefully, relax, and do it TWICE.
Now you can calculate the "degrees per inch" of the wheel.
Let's say the wheel was 18 inches
You divide 18 / 360 = .05"
That means that a mark placed .05" away from the TDC mark on the wheel will be 1 degree on the wheel
10 degrees would be 10 X .05 = .5"
Now, you can check your math. Take a pair of dividers, and mark off with the tape onto your dividers, the figure you have come up with for 10 degrees, in this case .5" (1/2 inch)
With your dividers, mark off this distance from TDC on the wheel.
Now, to check your work, carefully, with a wrench on the front balancer nut, rotate the engine CAREFULLY until it is EXACTLY on TDC.
Your brand new mark you made on the wheel should be DIRECTLY UNDER the 10 deg. mark on the timing plate!!
Once you are sure you have done this correctly, now you can take your dividers, and carefully mark off every 10 degrees, and when you get done, if you want, you can mark off every 5, too, then scribe and file them permanent.
Now, when you want to know if the advance system is working, you can SEE it right on the wheel, all the way up to 50-60 degrees. Older Fords had the wheels marked up to 30 deg. I've never figured out why Ford stopped at 30
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 01-25-2008 at 11:30 PM.
01-26-2008, 08:11 PM
#6
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Posts: n/a
I just got done setting the timing. I think it is where its supposed to be. I uploaded a video of it on youtube, you should check it out. Let me know how it sounds.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=CDSsXaGxiu4
http://youtube.com/watch?v=CDSsXaGxiu4
01-30-2008, 06:30 PM
#7
Really hard to tell from the video--which is very dark, by the way--but from what I can tell, it sounds at least close. Sounds like it fires right up.
I'm glad to see you guys carrying on. I'm only '59, but I'm developing health problems, and have arthritic problems. I certainly no longer have the money it takes to keep up one of these.
I'm glad to see you guys carrying on. I'm only '59, but I'm developing health problems, and have arthritic problems. I certainly no longer have the money it takes to keep up one of these.
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