converting manual over to a 4-speed
#1
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converting manual over to a 4-speed
has anyone here taken the automatic out and replaced it with a manual 4-speed?
I have a 70 roadrunner and I hate the automatic in it!
I have everthing to convert it over to a 4-speed and am looking for some directions? a manual? someone who has done it before? who can give me some suggestions or tips on where to begin?
Thanks
beep beep
tish
I have a 70 roadrunner and I hate the automatic in it!
I have everthing to convert it over to a 4-speed and am looking for some directions? a manual? someone who has done it before? who can give me some suggestions or tips on where to begin?
Thanks
beep beep
tish
#2
Just to be clear, when you say you have everything to do the conversion, do you have the Manual trans hump for the floor pan, the crankshaft with the pilot hole for the bushing for the trans, clutch and flywheel, the correct Z-Bar, clutch/break pedle assy...oh, and the trans is a given Also, the drive shaft may need to be changed ( Not remembering if I needed that when I was going to do it or not
Anything can be done if you are willing to put up with the headache, or pay enough to have it done. If someone is going to do it for you, make sure they know what they are doing. I'd hate to see your RR out of comission because someone fuxored the car for you...
j
Anything can be done if you are willing to put up with the headache, or pay enough to have it done. If someone is going to do it for you, make sure they know what they are doing. I'd hate to see your RR out of comission because someone fuxored the car for you...
j
#4
most 383s that were auto's came with the crank with the no pilot hole in it and you would have to put in a new crank but if its a 440 most of them were standard with the pilot hole being able to accept it ... i would check that to make sure it is ready for one before you go to far but other than that its pretty simple to do with alittle knowledge .... what all do you have to do the swap and like 70 said you need all of that to do the swap
1. make sure it will accept a pilot bearing
2. make sure the shifter has the correct hump
3. put in pedals
4. swap out trannies, dont forget the pilot bushing
5. put in shifter/linkage
6. put in transmount
7. and fit driveshaft
8. fill with oil
9. bang gears when driving
10. install line lock if you want
1. make sure it will accept a pilot bearing
2. make sure the shifter has the correct hump
3. put in pedals
4. swap out trannies, dont forget the pilot bushing
5. put in shifter/linkage
6. put in transmount
7. and fit driveshaft
8. fill with oil
9. bang gears when driving
10. install line lock if you want
#6
the piolt hole is for a brass bushing that fits into the end of the crank , then the front of the input shaft of the 4 spd fits into this when installing. its alittle more indepth then chally told you.to check for pilot hole in crank, when you get the auto out , look at the back of motor there will be ahole in the middle of the crank, you can stick your finger into that hole all the way up to your second knuckle. if you barley get your finger tip in it then its for an auto matic onley and youll have to knub the input shaft on your 4 spd. to do this cut 1/4" off the end of the input shaft, with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw, then use a hand file and smoooth the edges back down and round the tip back. when you get the trans in the car and bolted down , then mark your floor pan from under neath w/ white chalk where the shift ear is at on the s-spd, cause your gonna have to tak the trans back down so you can cut out the section of floor pan you just marked to get the shifter in. then youll have to weld or bondo in the 4 spd hump, pending on if its metal or glass. ounce this is done then reinstall the trans. then you have to place the z-bar appendage on the frame so you can mark it where to weld it on. this is the bracket that sets on the top of the frame rail next to inner fender weel, the z-bar goes from this to the bell housing where there is a crank ball that fits into the end of this.you have to use a small level to ensure that eh z-bar is level so that it wont bind and pop the clutch rod off. It is prolly a good idea, tha if a buddy of your has a 4 spd car, that you can borrow it for the weekend so yuo can see what you neeed to do step by step.
#7
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thanks rr69, that's been helpful I am working on it right now, first painting underneath with chassis black
any thoughts on the bellhousing bearing retainer diameter? and bore runout?
I do not have a Chrysler service manual right now, any body have one that can make some copies of where to check these measurements???
thanks for your help
any thoughts on the bellhousing bearing retainer diameter? and bore runout?
I do not have a Chrysler service manual right now, any body have one that can make some copies of where to check these measurements???
thanks for your help
#8
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year one offers pilot bushings for both style crankshafts the O.D. on the bushing for engines originally equiped with an auto is smaller (.915 instead of the.940'' for manual) so you wont have to machine your crank . their part number for this is MOP574C and at less than $4 seems like a good solution but I havent tried it myself. I'm sure you could find this elsewhere also. I hope this helps
#9
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thanks, i found a new bushing in with all my parts,
this is an after market bell housing, and I need to check . bellhousing bore runout and face squareness, but i do not have a dail indicator. Is there any other way to check? and how ctitical is this?
Thanks alot,
tish
this is an after market bell housing, and I need to check . bellhousing bore runout and face squareness, but i do not have a dail indicator. Is there any other way to check? and how ctitical is this?
Thanks alot,
tish
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theaspenator
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01-30-2008 07:30 PM