Dakota to A Body Engine swap.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Dakota to A Body Engine swap.
Hello All,
Im new to the forum, this is my first post. I have a 1970 A Body, and want to swap a 360 and Trans from a wrecked R/T Dakota into it. I would like to keep it fuel injected and incorporate all the modern ECM and controls. I know this has been done before, just curious if anyone on here had, or if there was a website or other reference material in regards to wiring this thing and making it run. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Im new to the forum, this is my first post. I have a 1970 A Body, and want to swap a 360 and Trans from a wrecked R/T Dakota into it. I would like to keep it fuel injected and incorporate all the modern ECM and controls. I know this has been done before, just curious if anyone on here had, or if there was a website or other reference material in regards to wiring this thing and making it run. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thank You Sir. Ill give the links a look. The engine swap seems fairly straight forward (I had a 65 Dart with a 318 Magnum) and Im fairly certain I will have to cut the tranny tunnel to accept the overdrive trans. Its the wiring that has me concerned. Im sure I can figure it out, but if anyone has done it and learned all the hard lessons, I would sure like to hear from them. Thanks again!!!
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 681
Likes: 106
Not hard. Tedious and not for the unorganized. But don't let that discourage you. Its plug and play, with some pitfalls we can help you with here.
Physically the 360s are the same size wise. Almost all gaskets too.
Here are some things to think about:
The key to doing this from the start is to have the DAK running before you pull the motor. Keep all the sensors labeled and photo everything as a go by once you yank it.
You need the VIN # from the DAK and the inside OBD2 recepticle. You also need BOTH fuse boxes. It will be easier to add you rides electronics to the DAKs than vice versa. And the modern box will have room to spare for accessories. The VIN number is needed for computer reprogramming later if needed.
The 46RE tranny is just the 727 with an electronic overdrive added to the tail. It is very wide at the tail so you are correct with the clearancing you will need to do.
The oil pan gasket follows the pan selected not the Magnum block. You need an electric fan and a fuel pump..
Mark the distributor base and key it to the block before you yank it. The base controlled the fuel sync (injector firing timing) NOT distributor timing. Also if you have to pull the dizzy at install time the rotor points to num 1 cylinder INTAKE bolt under the AC unit not the num 1 cylinder.
If the motor has more than 50K pull the injectors and take them to a diesel shop for a good cleaning. The pcm is so good at keeping it running that injectors issues go unseen and don't trip a CEL. You can end up running a cylinder lean and burning a valve.
You need the under dash check engine light lead, OD "off" trigger, pedal brake light switch, etc....
As you can see keeping the DAK on site will be a HUGE plus..
Physically the 360s are the same size wise. Almost all gaskets too.
Here are some things to think about:
The key to doing this from the start is to have the DAK running before you pull the motor. Keep all the sensors labeled and photo everything as a go by once you yank it.
You need the VIN # from the DAK and the inside OBD2 recepticle. You also need BOTH fuse boxes. It will be easier to add you rides electronics to the DAKs than vice versa. And the modern box will have room to spare for accessories. The VIN number is needed for computer reprogramming later if needed.
The 46RE tranny is just the 727 with an electronic overdrive added to the tail. It is very wide at the tail so you are correct with the clearancing you will need to do.
The oil pan gasket follows the pan selected not the Magnum block. You need an electric fan and a fuel pump..
Mark the distributor base and key it to the block before you yank it. The base controlled the fuel sync (injector firing timing) NOT distributor timing. Also if you have to pull the dizzy at install time the rotor points to num 1 cylinder INTAKE bolt under the AC unit not the num 1 cylinder.
If the motor has more than 50K pull the injectors and take them to a diesel shop for a good cleaning. The pcm is so good at keeping it running that injectors issues go unseen and don't trip a CEL. You can end up running a cylinder lean and burning a valve.
You need the under dash check engine light lead, OD "off" trigger, pedal brake light switch, etc....
As you can see keeping the DAK on site will be a HUGE plus..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
