Dizzy help
06-10-2009, 11:19 PM
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Dizzy help
I've replaced the worn oil pump drive gear, now I have to line up the dizzy. I cant afford a manual now, what is the position that I should "clock" the dizzy and the rotor at? The motor is at tdc#1, #1 cyl valves are closed, where should the vacuum on the dist. point? I can set it to the no 1 cyl,but theres a couple of ways I can do it by moving the dizzy one way or the other. Where do I start?
Last edited by scotts74birds; 06-10-2009 at 11:22 PM.
06-11-2009, 02:47 AM
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Hope this helps Scotty. I posted the whole process for everyone.
1. Remove #1 spark plug and pull the coil wire off
2. Place your finger over the spark plug hole
3. Have an assistant bump the motor over until you feel air pushing your finger off the hole.
4. Use a socket (1.25" usually) and manually bring the engine dampener mark to zero.
5. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor should be pointing in the general vicinity of #1 cylinder.
6. Note the location of the vacuum canister.
7. Remove the distributor and write your name on it with a Sharpee.
8. Do not rotate the engine, leave it right where it is.
Installation:
1. Clock the rotor so it's pointing at #1 cylinder and hold the housing so the vacuum unit or cover plate is in the approximate position as in #6 above.
2. Drop the distributor in and jiggle the rotor and housing slightly until it drop into the oil pump drive, be sure that it drop all the way down.
3. Determine the correct rotation of your distributor, SB Mopars rotate clock wise, 383/400/440 all rotate counter clockwise.
4. Look at the reluctor (Star wheel on your distributor shaft) see #6 above and turn the housing to the approximate location, one of the paddles on the reluctor should now be very close to the magnetic pickup center. Adjust it now so it lines up dead center on that contact point.
5. You now have set the distributor to zero timing and the rotor should line up centered on the cap contact for #1 plug wire. You can use a Sharpee to mark the housing so when you position the cap it's easy to confirm that #1 cap terminal is directly in line with the rotor.
6. Of course at Zero timing the motor will have a hard time starting so we need to advance it to about 15*-20* , so if we think about this the position we have it set at the distributor should have already fired #1 plug so study your rotation and think about which direction it rotates and turn the housing so that it indicates that the distributor has already fired #1. On a Clockwise distributor (SB) you would turn the housing COUNTER CLOCKWISE a BB you would turn the housing the opposite direction. Always remember that "Rotation Retards" so to advance the timing you turn it counter rotation.
7. How far?
Just rotate the distributor to about 1/8 to 3/16" past the contact point with the reluctor paddle, this will put enough timing in the motor to fire it off, even close will fire the motor and allow for final tuning with a good timing light. see #6 for correct direction to rotate the housing.
8. Snug down the clamp just enough so you can grab the cap and turn the distributor with a strong arm, we just don't want it to slip when we're trying to start it and time it.
9. Turn the key and light it off, bring it up to temp and set the initial timing as per your specs. We recommend that you also bring it up to about 100-200 RPM above where we set the total at and with a dial back light check to be sure that it doesn't exceed the total timing we have determined as Max timing for your application.
10. Your all done, tighten down the distributor clamp, double check it and "Happy Motoring"
Caution:
Poor wires or a bad cap will load your body with about 25,000 volts at idle. Be sure the entire system is in top condition before grabbing a handful of ignition wires, failure to do so may cause your head to slam into the hood and or painful bruising of the elbow when it makes rapid contact with the inner fender.
1. Remove #1 spark plug and pull the coil wire off
2. Place your finger over the spark plug hole
3. Have an assistant bump the motor over until you feel air pushing your finger off the hole.
4. Use a socket (1.25" usually) and manually bring the engine dampener mark to zero.
5. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor should be pointing in the general vicinity of #1 cylinder.
6. Note the location of the vacuum canister.
7. Remove the distributor and write your name on it with a Sharpee.
8. Do not rotate the engine, leave it right where it is.
Installation:
1. Clock the rotor so it's pointing at #1 cylinder and hold the housing so the vacuum unit or cover plate is in the approximate position as in #6 above.
2. Drop the distributor in and jiggle the rotor and housing slightly until it drop into the oil pump drive, be sure that it drop all the way down.
3. Determine the correct rotation of your distributor, SB Mopars rotate clock wise, 383/400/440 all rotate counter clockwise.
4. Look at the reluctor (Star wheel on your distributor shaft) see #6 above and turn the housing to the approximate location, one of the paddles on the reluctor should now be very close to the magnetic pickup center. Adjust it now so it lines up dead center on that contact point.
5. You now have set the distributor to zero timing and the rotor should line up centered on the cap contact for #1 plug wire. You can use a Sharpee to mark the housing so when you position the cap it's easy to confirm that #1 cap terminal is directly in line with the rotor.
6. Of course at Zero timing the motor will have a hard time starting so we need to advance it to about 15*-20* , so if we think about this the position we have it set at the distributor should have already fired #1 plug so study your rotation and think about which direction it rotates and turn the housing so that it indicates that the distributor has already fired #1. On a Clockwise distributor (SB) you would turn the housing COUNTER CLOCKWISE a BB you would turn the housing the opposite direction. Always remember that "Rotation Retards" so to advance the timing you turn it counter rotation.
7. How far?
Just rotate the distributor to about 1/8 to 3/16" past the contact point with the reluctor paddle, this will put enough timing in the motor to fire it off, even close will fire the motor and allow for final tuning with a good timing light. see #6 for correct direction to rotate the housing.
8. Snug down the clamp just enough so you can grab the cap and turn the distributor with a strong arm, we just don't want it to slip when we're trying to start it and time it.
9. Turn the key and light it off, bring it up to temp and set the initial timing as per your specs. We recommend that you also bring it up to about 100-200 RPM above where we set the total at and with a dial back light check to be sure that it doesn't exceed the total timing we have determined as Max timing for your application.
10. Your all done, tighten down the distributor clamp, double check it and "Happy Motoring"
Caution:
Poor wires or a bad cap will load your body with about 25,000 volts at idle. Be sure the entire system is in top condition before grabbing a handful of ignition wires, failure to do so may cause your head to slam into the hood and or painful bruising of the elbow when it makes rapid contact with the inner fender.
Last edited by Polaradude; 06-11-2009 at 02:51 AM.
06-12-2009, 02:49 PM
#4
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Right, so say you paid absolutely no attention to the position of the vacuum can and the rotor position when the dizzy was pulled. you say the vacuum should be pointing to the drivers side, and with the engine at tdc #1, the rotor should be pointing WHERE?
06-12-2009, 07:38 PM
#6
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but right as far as the vacuum pointing towards drivers side? I can clock the rotor to point wherever I want as long as I put the wires right
06-13-2009, 11:58 AM
#9
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Line up the TDC mark to zero on the COMPRESSION stroke, then;
I guess if you wanted to make it look like the book, the #1 would be pointing to the #1 cylinder and the clips for the hold down would be inbetween the #1 and #8 terminals and the # 6 and #5. This would also orient the vacuum can like the book. The hard part of doing this is the spiral cut of the gears and the lining up of the oil pump drive shaft. You have to judge where the rotor is going to point after it drops down all the way. (spiral cut gears). but then some times the oil pump shaft wont engage and you gotta "bump" the starter to get it to drop in all the way. Thats when you discover that the rotor isnt pointing to the right spot. Start all over again.
I guess if you wanted to make it look like the book, the #1 would be pointing to the #1 cylinder and the clips for the hold down would be inbetween the #1 and #8 terminals and the # 6 and #5. This would also orient the vacuum can like the book. The hard part of doing this is the spiral cut of the gears and the lining up of the oil pump drive shaft. You have to judge where the rotor is going to point after it drops down all the way. (spiral cut gears). but then some times the oil pump shaft wont engage and you gotta "bump" the starter to get it to drop in all the way. Thats when you discover that the rotor isnt pointing to the right spot. Start all over again.
06-13-2009, 01:00 PM
#10
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thanks for mentioning the spiral gear part. yes, you'll find that when it drops in the rotor turns. you have to move it ahead a bit to have it drop where you want it. and yes again to the bumping the starter to get it to catch the oil pump drive. it's a pain but should drop down in a turn or two, just don't tighten down the hold down too much. if you changed the distributor o-ring, you get to watch to make sure it doesn't get pinched too :-0
06-13-2009, 01:51 PM
#11
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The Dist can only go in two diff ways...
If it pops and is tough to start, ect, its 180 off. Switch it, put it back in, cap on, she'll be ready to go.
I find that the easiest way after you find TDC.
If it pops and is tough to start, ect, its 180 off. Switch it, put it back in, cap on, she'll be ready to go.
I find that the easiest way after you find TDC.
06-14-2009, 11:40 AM
#13
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It has the slotted end, fitting into the oil drive gear I had to replace. Sorry to take so long, have my daughter this weekend. I'll hit this hard tomorrow and we'll see what happens. Thank you all for the help
06-14-2009, 09:54 PM
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I'm a sparky by trade, so at 8, she was bending conduit. At 11 she was wiring recessed lights. Now shes 13 and everything dad does is boring or gay.
06-15-2009, 05:05 AM
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lol, it sounds normal. now go talk to her friends and embarrass her!
the important thing is the time spent together. ask her to show you how to do things like electronic gadget stuff. she'll feel good to teach you things and it will pass some time.
the important thing is the time spent together. ask her to show you how to do things like electronic gadget stuff. she'll feel good to teach you things and it will pass some time.
Last edited by richinny; 06-15-2009 at 05:08 AM.
06-16-2009, 04:24 PM
#17
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Thanks all, got the dizzy stabbed and lined up, Now for the intake. Its s 383 so I have the valley pan, the head and intake gaskets are glued on to the pan with gaskacinch. How do i prepare the heads and intake manifold? Dry and clean? Gaskacinch ? Want to do this once! Also, what are torque specs for the rocker arm shafts? thanks
06-16-2009, 05:54 PM
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Thanks buddy. Now, how do I seal the intake and not f$ck it up like last time!
Last edited by scotts74birds; 06-16-2009 at 06:39 PM.
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