Engine movement limiters AGAIN
04-07-2010 | 09:59 AM
#1
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Engine movement limiters AGAIN
What do you guys use to limit the front to rear movement, when taking off and stopping, on your high performance cars.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
04-07-2010 | 10:14 AM
#2
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Long Island, NY
OHD -
I went to neoprene motor / trany mounts and the engine does not move. The downside is that more vibration is transferred to the cabin. Guessing the engine is putting out about 525 HP (based on previous ETs), and since she's a cruiser these days, no need to lock it down any tighter.
Maybe I'm missing something (not the first time). but anything with zero flex usually translates in to a broken part ...
Archer
I went to neoprene motor / trany mounts and the engine does not move. The downside is that more vibration is transferred to the cabin. Guessing the engine is putting out about 525 HP (based on previous ETs), and since she's a cruiser these days, no need to lock it down any tighter.
Maybe I'm missing something (not the first time). but anything with zero flex usually translates in to a broken part ...
Archer
04-07-2010 | 01:21 PM
#4
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 486
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From: Amarillo, Tx
What do you guys use to limit the front to rear movement, when taking off and stopping, on your high performance cars.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
Pics would help, and also how can you tell its moving fore and aft? Seems a motor plated motor wouldn't have fore/aft movement enough to matter.... what type of vehicle is this in? Just needing more facts before trying to guide.....IF these are factory pieces (engine plates) they shouldn't have any movement and I would doubt that the vehicle in question can generate the G-Forces necessary to allow movement. ( NO BS intended)
04-07-2010 | 03:04 PM
#5
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: DeLeon Springs, Florida
What do you guys use to limit the front to rear movement, when taking off and stopping, on your high performance cars.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
04-07-2010 | 04:51 PM
#6
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I have about 1050HP+ in a 3000lb doorslammer leaving HARD on 32X14.5X15 slicks.
The motor flexes a .375 aluminum front plate (cracked last one) and .100 thick steel mid plate. The trans is mounted on a poly mount to keep from grenading the GF5R case or disc when the engine shifts.
The engine movement lmiters I have used on other cars before either bolted to the motor mount bosses then to the frame or from the pan rails to the frame.
I want to go from the pan rails to the front k member this time. I am waiting for a "kit" to arrive now, will probably look it over and re engineer it with stronger lighter components (titanium)....
PS
This is a very common problem that many many over look, when you either take off or slow down the chassis goes or stops and the engine and trans, being dead weight, want to stay put and not change along with the rest of the car.
It is the reason for numerous auto trans tailshaft or main body splits/cracks/failures, and lots of dropped drive shafts....on manual trans cars it just tears up the clutch and trans mounts.
These can help any car shift more solidly and stay straight in a straight line acceleration/stop attempt, be it a 20 sec slant six or a 4 sec 300 plus miles per hour TF rail...
They are now being installed on stock cars from the factory...but use energy absorbing cylinders instead of solid steel bars.
The motor flexes a .375 aluminum front plate (cracked last one) and .100 thick steel mid plate. The trans is mounted on a poly mount to keep from grenading the GF5R case or disc when the engine shifts.
The engine movement lmiters I have used on other cars before either bolted to the motor mount bosses then to the frame or from the pan rails to the frame.
I want to go from the pan rails to the front k member this time. I am waiting for a "kit" to arrive now, will probably look it over and re engineer it with stronger lighter components (titanium)....
PS
This is a very common problem that many many over look, when you either take off or slow down the chassis goes or stops and the engine and trans, being dead weight, want to stay put and not change along with the rest of the car.
It is the reason for numerous auto trans tailshaft or main body splits/cracks/failures, and lots of dropped drive shafts....on manual trans cars it just tears up the clutch and trans mounts.
These can help any car shift more solidly and stay straight in a straight line acceleration/stop attempt, be it a 20 sec slant six or a 4 sec 300 plus miles per hour TF rail...
They are now being installed on stock cars from the factory...but use energy absorbing cylinders instead of solid steel bars.
Last edited by OHD; 04-07-2010 at 04:53 PM.
04-07-2010 | 04:59 PM
#7
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the "attaching points" are not flexing, the mid part of the plates between the attachment points are.....
I have been bringing this topic up for 3-4 years now and some have realized and come up with very creative "limiters" that work great for their applications. Seems nobody has the same piece of crap I do, so I can copy theirs, though.
There are several kits commercialy available but all made for Chev and Fords
I have been bringing this topic up for 3-4 years now and some have realized and come up with very creative "limiters" that work great for their applications. Seems nobody has the same piece of crap I do, so I can copy theirs, though.
There are several kits commercialy available but all made for Chev and Fords
04-07-2010 | 06:04 PM
#8
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 486
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From: Amarillo, Tx
the "attaching points" are not flexing, the mid part of the plates between the attachment points are.....
I have been bringing this topic up for 3-4 years now and some have realized and come up with very creative "limiters" that work great for their applications. Seems nobody has the same piece of crap I do, so I can copy theirs, though.
There are several kits commercialy available but all made for Chev and Fords
I have been bringing this topic up for 3-4 years now and some have realized and come up with very creative "limiters" that work great for their applications. Seems nobody has the same piece of crap I do, so I can copy theirs, though.
There are several kits commercialy available but all made for Chev and Fords
Ran across this by doing a Google search , although it looks as though this one bolts to the bolt hole of one of the motor mount bosses.....http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-208.htm
Although these are listed as a piece for the s-197 chassis mustang you may be able to 'adapt' it for your car....
Last edited by MrOldart2U; 04-07-2010 at 06:49 PM.
04-08-2010 | 08:10 AM
#10
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Those were used as patterns for the new plates. They cracked around all the fastner holes and started showing stress in the middle.
I know why now I need to find where to attach the limiters to prevent it.
I looked a topsportsman car last night that used them off the can, another one used them off the rear/side of the trans. rear area instead of the block area.....more room...
04-08-2010 | 08:13 AM
#11
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Ran across this by doing a Google search , although it looks as though this one bolts to the bolt hole of one of the motor mount bosses.....http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-208.htm
Although these are listed as a piece for the s-197 chassis mustang you may be able to 'adapt' it for your car....
Although these are listed as a piece for the s-197 chassis mustang you may be able to 'adapt' it for your car....
04-09-2010 | 12:51 PM
#12
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https://www.appliedracing.net/index....cfe48859f1437d
here are few examples of the available kits,,,,
for those not aware of the movement...IN EVERY CAR......
here are few examples of the available kits,,,,
for those not aware of the movement...IN EVERY CAR......
04-09-2010 | 01:45 PM
#13
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,173
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From: Goffstown, NH
https://www.appliedracing.net/index....cfe48859f1437d
here are few examples of the available kits,,,,
for those not aware of the movement...IN EVERY CAR......
here are few examples of the available kits,,,,
for those not aware of the movement...IN EVERY CAR......
04-09-2010 | 06:07 PM
#14
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I saw 2 rails today with the attaching brackets welded onto the blowshields (trick titanium cans) and another with limiters attached to the trans mouting bosses..
all going to the frames for the other ends.. more creative guys stuff.
getting there....
My motor has to be semi centerlined (1.25" offset) so hard mount to frame is out...
all going to the frames for the other ends.. more creative guys stuff.
getting there....
My motor has to be semi centerlined (1.25" offset) so hard mount to frame is out...
04-09-2010 | 06:11 PM
#15
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I can tell you where Banning Dodge placed their limiters on ALL their hemi cars YEARS AGO... front of heads down to core support bracing...
I can not do that with no motor mount KB blocks mounted with elephant ears. Plus I use HUGE ProSystem oil pumps...
04-09-2010 | 11:56 PM
#17
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Vernon, BC. Canada
Properly designed cars making serious hp have no problems using just a front plate.PS. next time you get a plate made have it made with aircraft grade aluminum. It will go thru thousands of flex cycles (launches) and not crack, just watch the flex of the wings of a plane next time your on one.
Last edited by toad490; 04-10-2010 at 12:31 AM.
04-10-2010 | 04:29 AM
#18
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: DeLeon Springs, Florida
PS. next time you get a plate made have it made with aircraft grade aluminum. It will go thru thousands of flex cycles (launches) and not crack, just watch the flex of the wings of a plane next time your on one.[/quote]
Hey Toad, you are right... I see that every week and at first it scared me to death.... They move A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Toad, you are right... I see that every week and at first it scared me to death.... They move A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!
04-10-2010 | 12:08 PM
#19
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,204
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
What do you guys use to limit the front to rear movement, when taking off and stopping, on your high performance cars.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
The car I am putting together needs them to keep the engine in the exact same place ALL THE TIME. We are using front and rear plates that it flexes when taking off/stopping.
most mopars came with a hook (after 66 i believe) that connected from the k-frame to the motor
this was put there in response to chevy's rat motor mounts constantly breaking
if you car did not come with this, just line up where the motor's mounts would be, and where that would line up to on the k-frame
drill the k-frame
and attach the bolt through it
04-13-2010 | 03:37 PM
#20
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My plates are 6062 aluminum rear is 4130 moly steel. The sheer length makes them flex.
I cut everything off the K frame that was not being used (all motor mount stuff and brackets)
I am looking into using my trans mount (I had to custom make if for the GForce trans, that goes s to s and all the way back to the rear end) and the bellhousing trans mount face to put r&l limiters. I will know something in few weeks when I get back to it.
I cut everything off the K frame that was not being used (all motor mount stuff and brackets)
I am looking into using my trans mount (I had to custom make if for the GForce trans, that goes s to s and all the way back to the rear end) and the bellhousing trans mount face to put r&l limiters. I will know something in few weeks when I get back to it.
04-13-2010 | 05:45 PM
#21
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From: Vernon, BC. Canada
04-14-2010 | 07:42 AM
#22
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what's up with that OHD?????
17 and 20 inches short? Waterpump to side of engine compartment is large span.
They are 6062 material, 7 series is too brittle. That is what I picked up. I buy direct from the bulk aluminum wholesale supply house. Where I get all my aluminum for projects. Exit 16 off 97 in MD.....
17 and 20 inches short? Waterpump to side of engine compartment is large span.
They are 6062 material, 7 series is too brittle. That is what I picked up. I buy direct from the bulk aluminum wholesale supply house. Where I get all my aluminum for projects. Exit 16 off 97 in MD.....
04-14-2010 | 09:04 AM
#24
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Vernon, BC. Canada
04-14-2010 | 09:28 AM
#25
thinkin with me dipstick
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 930
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From: sw desert
ok, i've sat back and watched - seen the "questions" and responses - now can someone please fill me in, and with no dickery intended, is there a point to this thread?
Last edited by johnthegoalie; 04-14-2010 at 04:50 PM.
04-14-2010 | 05:52 PM
#26
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Vernon, BC. Canada
About as much as there is to this one.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...ead.php?t=1441
or this one
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108978
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...ead.php?t=1441
or this one
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108978
