Headers in a Mopar 440
#1
Headers in a Mopar 440
I have a question for anyone that has encountered this while installing headers. When I removed the manifold studs I noticed that all of the holes go into the water jacket, so that when I put the headers in the bolts will also go into the water jacket, so what do I need to do to seal the bolts?
I appreciate any feedback on this. -Thanks
I appreciate any feedback on this. -Thanks
#5
I have not put them in yet, but I assumed that the studs I pulled out were sealed well. Also I have not dealt with the holes going into the water jackets before, so I want to proceed with caution just in case there is a problem that could occur.
#9
When I pulled the studs out they were all corroded and rusty on the ends. I asked another friend of mine about what he does in these situations, and he said he uses Boiler putty, have you ever heard of that?
#11
My mechanic recommended that, been working on Mopars since the 60's. I only asked him yesterday, also he said that the rtv may melt and go into the coolant, have you done this before?
#13
Whats the temp rating on the quality you would use for that? I melted through high temp spark plug wires with these headers, had to get those real high temp sleeves put on the wires to prevent melting, so I am always leery of products that do not have specific temperature ratings or are under 1200-1500 degree.
#14
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Any automotive-grade RTV should work fine. I think the typical blue or black is 4-500 degrees. The gold or bronze(which some have used to seal actual exhaust leaks - not me though) .... is 8-900 degrees - I believe.
Now what would an exhaust stud see(deep in the head like that) as far as temp? .... ?? ... maybe 400 degrees.
Now what would an exhaust stud see(deep in the head like that) as far as temp? .... ?? ... maybe 400 degrees.
Last edited by Doc; 08-07-2008 at 06:10 PM.
#15
Hey Commando i would recomend using the Loctite RTV 5920 Copper Silicone ,, it is non corrosive like diolectric grease and withstands temps 700 degrees and would put it on the threads about 1/8 of an inch above bottom / i use it all the time and never have leaks
#16
Thats true Doc, it has the temperature of the coolant, and there is some space between it and where the exhaust ports are.
I will look into that Challenger, sounds like a good product. What do you mean by bottom, do you mean the end of the bolt?
Another reason I am being cautious, is that they all go into the water jacket, not just the end ones. (I may have said that already)
I will look into that Challenger, sounds like a good product. What do you mean by bottom, do you mean the end of the bolt?
Another reason I am being cautious, is that they all go into the water jacket, not just the end ones. (I may have said that already)
Last edited by Commando; 08-08-2008 at 06:16 AM.
#22
Anti seize is about the opposite of loctite. It tries to prevent the interaction of dissimilar metals that cause the quick, thick corrosion and almost impossible disassembly of parts. We use it a LOT on locomotives, and it do work. Even tho it's way more expensive, I'd use the copper based anti seize due to the prolonged hi temps, and the cost of your heads. Someone earlier asked about Bolier Putty. Basically the same thing as Oakum, plumber's putty, etc. It's a waxy type stuff that was used way back when and is good for a lot of things, but I dont think I would use it to seal threads going into a head.
#23
hey C go up 8 post and remember what i said about the Loctite RTV 5920 and you can use it like antisieze or if you are going with the aluminum heads then you can just use regular antisieze ... you can get the gray stuff from your local hardware or if you know a cat dealer in your area get there copper based antisieze ( catterpillar as in dozers / loaders / graders and earthmovers )
#25
hey guys sorry about the mad smilie i didnt put it on there on my last answer i dont know how it got there hummm must be gremlins and 78 , the cat dealer used to give us that antisieze like crazy but even they are cutting back on things they give out as even a hat is hard to come by , boy this economy sucks but at least the gas prices were at 1.89 today and my diesel is 3.29 guess we are still using more diesel these days
#28
I got another question regarding these headers, has anyone every used fireplace paint on headers before? I think that it would be the best as I already paid 300 for paint that burned off.
#29
I know of shops around me that will do ceramic coating for half that price. You should have gotten a high temp primer and paint in the rattle cans. As long as the headers were completely clean, the paint should have stuck.
I'm not sure about firplace paint but if you do, make sure that you clean off all the old paint. Sand blasting is a great way. Then clean them with mild soap and water.
#30
They did a high heat ceramic coat, supposed to be 1700 deg, think it was only 1200. The paint came off in the obvious places, the tops of most pipes, and is now "protected" by rust. I will definitely hit them with a sand blaster, and wash them. The fireplace paint is the highest temp paint I have found, plus the high heat cures it, so I think if it can hold up in a fireplace which is much hotter then an engine it should be good.