Help with engine unhooking to transmission.

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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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Help with engine unhooking to transmission.

I have a 1965 Dodge Coronet 440 with a 318 in it. Im pulling the engine but I am stuck on taking the engine out itself.
I have taken off all connections to the engine, took off all motor mounts and transmission bolts. I have taken out 6 bolts from the transmission to the engine.
But it seems like there is something else I need to do.
If anyone can help me that would be great.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate....
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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The converter bolts are a possibility, although the converter will come out of the trans with the engine. You may have corosion on the dowel pins on the bell housing holding it together. Some PB blaster on the dowels and genital prying may be necessary
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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If I'm not mistaken does the transmission have to be in neutral to rotate the engine via crank pulley bolt to access those four bolts? Also there should be an inspection cover that you need to remove at the bottom of the bell housing to get access to the flex plate. It's a half moon shape on my 727 TF.

JW
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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We bust 440's apart all the time. If you remove the bottom dust cover on a small block or big block auto tranny they will seperate. The torque convertor will pull out of the tranny. Mr340 is correct. Take the dust cover off and rotate the motor to take the four bolts out.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 05:05 PM
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You really really should not yank an engine out with the TQ on the engine. Could be hard on the mating areas/ splines/ seal in the trans.

When you are under the car unhooking everything else, remove the starter and dust cover. Stick the trans in any gear except park, and you can rotate the converter so you can remove the 4 drive bolts. EASY. If you are leaving the trans in the car, "rig" some method of retaining the TQ in the trans Even something simple like a c clamp on the bottom of the bell, or bend a scrap chunk of strap iron bolted to one of the bell holes, etc.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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I agree with all except having to put the tranny in any gear but park. Doesn't the flywheel and torque converter rotate anytime the engine is running, including park? The drive shaft will not turn in park but the flywheel should rotate. Am I missing something here?
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by fivepoint
I agree with all except having to put the tranny in any gear but park. Doesn't the flywheel and torque converter rotate anytime the engine is running, including park? The drive shaft will not turn in park but the flywheel should rotate. Am I missing something here?
You are correct, "brain fart" on my part
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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I couldn't spin that motor fast enough by hand to engage the torque convertor. They also make a special hook tool that hooks on the teeth of the convertor which gives you leverage to turn it while your underneath the car. I always use a long breaker bar and turn it with the big harmonic balancer bolt.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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You still there, Chris? That was GOOD advice. Another thing I learned about pulling a motor, If the front wheels come off the ground, STOP!
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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and you wanna put a 454 in there?
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Old May 28, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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Don't be prying on MY Genitals!

Originally Posted by TVLynn
The converter bolts are a possibility, although the converter will come out of the trans with the engine. You may have corosion on the dowel pins on the bell housing holding it together. Some PB blaster on the dowels and genital prying may be necessary
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Old Jul 26, 2014 | 03:48 AM
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It is almost certainly the torque converter bolts. You can still remove the engine with the converter bolted in, but the snout of the torque converter must be straight.

When removing an engine ot transmission, I start by unbolting the torque converter.

Before putting the engine back in, make sure to install the torque converter in the transmission.
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