Sander? Wire Wheel? Chemicals????
05-16-2009 | 11:25 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Sander? Wire Wheel? Chemicals????
Hello again guys. I was curious what others opinions are on removing the paint/primer for an old car are. I have been using a Makita 6 inch grinder wheel with a .020 knot wheel for my sand down, however at $15.00 per wheel, they dont seem to last long, ive used 3-4 wheels thus far, and im like 1/8 done with the car. Is there a simpler, more cost effective way? Im sure you guys have some real experience with this stuff, and its my first time....(be gentle). I have to say theres something almost zen like about sitting in the garage, Black Label Society cranked up, wearing my particle mask, goggles and earplugs..... yes even with the music cranked. (how else would I hear it unless you can FEEL it.... 
). And grinding like hell on this thing till the wee hours of the morning. However.... Im thinking im going about it all wrong.
I seem to be getting a smooth finish that really allows me to see what body work may need done, however at the same time doesn't the car need to me somewhat rough (like with sand paper) before sealer and primer get sprayed? Im coming out with a nice smooth surface.Im new to body work period, and im just hoping you alls input might save me some of the pitfalls that can be avoided,
Thanks for your time guys, looking forward to getting some replies.
). And grinding like hell on this thing till the wee hours of the morning. However.... Im thinking im going about it all wrong.I seem to be getting a smooth finish that really allows me to see what body work may need done, however at the same time doesn't the car need to me somewhat rough (like with sand paper) before sealer and primer get sprayed? Im coming out with a nice smooth surface.Im new to body work period, and im just hoping you alls input might save me some of the pitfalls that can be avoided,
Thanks for your time guys, looking forward to getting some replies.
05-16-2009 | 11:55 AM
#3
Mopar Lover
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 514
Likes: 7
From: South Point OH
Lots of different ways to strip a car, DA with 80 grit, some of the black nylon looking wheels that kinda look like a funnel cake (they actually work pretty good) and like you mentioned, chemicals. There's even a grinding wheel that looks like a lot of flaps of paper overlapping in a circle, if it's a fine enough grit (like 80-100) it works great to strip with as well, while leaving a good surface to let the paint adhere. I always try to make the stripper the last resort, less mess to clean up, and less chance of any residue being left to mess up your new paint.
You should have some sort of a surface to let the new paint adhere to, just as a rule of thumb, take a piece of 400 grit sand paper, sand some of the area you've already stripped, and the way the surface looks after that, aim for the whole car to look that way when it's stripped.
You should have some sort of a surface to let the new paint adhere to, just as a rule of thumb, take a piece of 400 grit sand paper, sand some of the area you've already stripped, and the way the surface looks after that, aim for the whole car to look that way when it's stripped.
05-17-2009 | 10:17 AM
#4
Mopar Fan
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Fleetwood, PA
I am actually trying to do the same thing. However, i am not planning on having the car painted until next year (until i have the money). The car is stored in my driveway under a cover and i am afraid of having the car in primer until next year because i am afraid that water will get through the primer. Is there a certain kind of primer or sealer that can be used that will block out water that anyone knows of?
05-20-2009 | 08:25 AM
#7
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 1
Nah!!!! Stop!!! Why so much trouble? Almost everytown USA has a media blaster that will do this job. I have had it done on three cars so far, and it is awesome. No sand blasting, these guys know what to use. they use a concotion of soda, plastic beads, walnut shells... the body never gets distorted from heat (a problem you could have from aggressive sanding or wire wheeling) this doesnt show up until after paint and there enough waves to paint fish on! Every car I had blasted cost between $200-$300. Add up the chemicals, sand paper, wire wheels and time, not to mention potential damage to the body. going to the stripper makes the most sense. Ask around at body shops and get referals, you will be surprised how easy and fast it is and how clean and nice it comes home.
05-20-2009 | 02:38 PM
#11
Mopar Lover
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 4
From: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
I got some stripper from Napa, but I cant get the car to run, and I dont want to use it in the garage. once outside the garage door the driveway goes down FAST! Cant push it back in.
Last edited by scotts74birds; 05-20-2009 at 02:40 PM.
07-04-2009 | 02:29 PM
#14
Admin
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,173
Likes: 200
From: Goffstown, NH
I used aircraft striper on the wheels for the j10 and all I can say is HOLY CR@P! That stuff worked great. As for usig it on hte body of a car though....... maybe just the underside and lower body panels.
07-05-2009 | 11:53 AM
#15
Mopar Lover
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 837
Likes: 2
From: Springfield NE
Yeah a wire wheel works if the paint aint too stubborn. Ya gotta be cautios with it, it'll try and bite you [especially when you remove the saftey gaurd].If you got a DA that works too on the outside body paint {use 40 grit to start then switch to 80}.You can "lock out" the orbiting part so it just spins. Media blasting is the best if you can do that. Also if you have a buffer/polisher {sander} you can get a large foam backed sanding attachment wich you can than attach large sanding discs. I think maybe all the way diwn to 24 grit. [Dont grind the metal with the 24 grit, just the initial top coat.] For the buffer/sander try a pawn shop or Harbor freight. ($29 at harbor freight)
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