Starting problem! Help :/
#1
Starting problem! Help :/
My 70' Charger has been giving me a heck of a time. It wont start with the key. I can cross it over on the starter relay. I have also changed the starter relay. I have checked the starter leads and they too are in great condition.
What should i do ???
What should i do ???
#2
If you can start it buy shorting across the starter relay then I would start looking at the ignition switch wiring. With you key turned on to the start position the relay is not getting the signal to turn on.
#4
How is the problem? Basically 1) Ignition switch to 2) Bulkhead Connector (square rubber plug in the firewall, always a problem area) to 3) Relay to 4) Trans Switch (through this switch to ground).
If you can jump it to start pull the Bulkead Connector apart first and have a look. It may be very obvious corrosion you can clean up. To test the ground use a wire from the center wire of the trans switch plug to a good ground and try to start, if it starts the switch is bad or the shift mechanism needs adjusting. To test the switch you will need an electrical meter.
If you can jump it to start pull the Bulkead Connector apart first and have a look. It may be very obvious corrosion you can clean up. To test the ground use a wire from the center wire of the trans switch plug to a good ground and try to start, if it starts the switch is bad or the shift mechanism needs adjusting. To test the switch you will need an electrical meter.
#5
How is the problem? Basically 1) Ignition switch to 2) Bulkhead Connector (square rubber plug in the firewall, always a problem area) to 3) Relay to 4) Trans Switch (through this switch to ground).
If you can jump it to start pull the Bulkead Connector apart first and have a look. It may be very obvious corrosion you can clean up. To test the ground use a wire from the center wire of the trans switch plug to a good ground and try to start, if it starts the switch is bad or the shift mechanism needs adjusting. To test the switch you will need an electrical meter.
If you can jump it to start pull the Bulkead Connector apart first and have a look. It may be very obvious corrosion you can clean up. To test the ground use a wire from the center wire of the trans switch plug to a good ground and try to start, if it starts the switch is bad or the shift mechanism needs adjusting. To test the switch you will need an electrical meter.
Older stick cars had only one "push on" terminal on the relay, the second one was permanently tied to the relay case, which means the relay on those cars MUST be grounded
Newer stick cars with a clutch safety switch work exactly like described above for auto matics, except the wire on automatics, connected to the neutral safety switch, instead goes through the bulkhead through a separate grommet and connects to the clutch switch, which grounds when depressed
#9
Sorry Guys.. Im a full time college student and haven't had a weekend free to try any of the above responses. I appreciate all the above solution tries above. And Guess who is gonna be under his dash Christmas weekend after the family gathering. ( This Guy ) lol. I have jiggled the shifter being an automatic it is in park so its not the neutral safety switch i do know that. Im guessing its in the wiring, i did drop the starter in the spring to do my brake lines so maybe something came lose in doing so. Again thanks guys for all the help with my Charger
#10
Instead of running off, and guessing, do some actual testing.
"Wiggling" the lever DOES NOT ELIMINATE the neutral safety switch. It could be the wiring, power to the start relay, the neutral switch bad, bad/ loose connector at the switch, or even a problem with the "comb" inside the transmission
DO THIS
Look at your relay. You should have two "push on connectors, a big stud, and a "square" connection.
The two "push on" connections are the coil of the relay
ONE of them gets power from the key, through the bulkhead connector. The relay will not fire, unless the OTHER "push on" connector sees a ground from the neutral safety switch, or in the case of older stick cars, the relay is already grounded, OR on 70/ later cars, has a "clutch safety switch" which must ground that second terminal
SO Take a test light or meter
Pull either wire off either push on. See if you can see the color. "yellowish" usually goes to the bulkhead connector (coming from the key.)
If you cannot ID the wires, stick your test light on EITHER wire, twist the key, see if you have a light.
Install the wire which is hot with "key in start" onto EITHER push on connector, and use a clip lead to ground the OTHER relay push-on terminal. The car should crank with the key CAREFUL will crank "in any gear" so make sure it's in neutral.
If you get this far, Check the wiring from the OTHER "push on" connector down to the trans, and check the neutral switch. THE MIDDLE terminal of the three should be GROUND when in park neutral.
We cannot help you if you aren't here.
"Wiggling" the lever DOES NOT ELIMINATE the neutral safety switch. It could be the wiring, power to the start relay, the neutral switch bad, bad/ loose connector at the switch, or even a problem with the "comb" inside the transmission
DO THIS
Look at your relay. You should have two "push on connectors, a big stud, and a "square" connection.
The two "push on" connections are the coil of the relay
ONE of them gets power from the key, through the bulkhead connector. The relay will not fire, unless the OTHER "push on" connector sees a ground from the neutral safety switch, or in the case of older stick cars, the relay is already grounded, OR on 70/ later cars, has a "clutch safety switch" which must ground that second terminal
SO Take a test light or meter
Pull either wire off either push on. See if you can see the color. "yellowish" usually goes to the bulkhead connector (coming from the key.)
If you cannot ID the wires, stick your test light on EITHER wire, twist the key, see if you have a light.
Install the wire which is hot with "key in start" onto EITHER push on connector, and use a clip lead to ground the OTHER relay push-on terminal. The car should crank with the key CAREFUL will crank "in any gear" so make sure it's in neutral.
If you get this far, Check the wiring from the OTHER "push on" connector down to the trans, and check the neutral switch. THE MIDDLE terminal of the three should be GROUND when in park neutral.
We cannot help you if you aren't here.
#11
Like I said 440RR Im gonna try and start at the top of the list.. Like i said Im gonna try the suggestions given when i get the chance this weekend. I have other things that have been suggested too that I'm gonna try as well. Thanks though for all the help.
#12
70 b body does have a fusible link going to the bulk head but it's not that nor anything under the dash or in the steering column where the key switch is.
put the car into neutral not park to test if the neutral switch is working. If your linkage is out of adjustment it will still generally start in neutral.
if putting the car into neutral still does not start the car with key the yellow wire with the black connector on the starter relay goes to the neutral switch. remove put a jumper wire from that tab to ground go inside turn key. If engine starts then your neutral switch may be bad.
THe switch itself on the transmission has three prongs one of these touches the inside of the transmission for ground. The other two are the switch for the reverse lights.
put the car into neutral not park to test if the neutral switch is working. If your linkage is out of adjustment it will still generally start in neutral.
if putting the car into neutral still does not start the car with key the yellow wire with the black connector on the starter relay goes to the neutral switch. remove put a jumper wire from that tab to ground go inside turn key. If engine starts then your neutral switch may be bad.
THe switch itself on the transmission has three prongs one of these touches the inside of the transmission for ground. The other two are the switch for the reverse lights.
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speedtriple
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05-30-2008 03:45 AM