erll i bet thats the wrench you though you dropped in the pan, how many 13 mm wrenches did you use on the car? besides the 1 u dropped?

13mm? dont you own a 1/2" wrench?

 

that's the thing. there's no way i had 13mm just laying all over this car. i cant exactly remember what i used it for. i think it was for a battery clamp.

 

Pull the plugs and turn it over by hand.

 

well, i started the car today and bad news. i runs just as rough as before. so 3 things:
1) sucks it doesn't run
2) thank god a wrench didn't catch my crank
3) now i need to figure out whit is running like crap again!

i think my next diagnoses is the carburetor is junk. so tonight i will probably start taking the intake off. i guess ill be putting on that 4 barrel i have.

i think what i want to do is buy head gaskets, intake gaskets, carb gasket, carb studs, and a throttle assembly. then just know out those things at once.

 

what intake do you have? just askin cuz edel made a intake i think its a sp2? 4bbl and if thats what it is you will be better off with a stock 2bll, chances are you dont have that, but just throwing it out there,

 

it is a edelbrock performer.

i just put the car on craigs for $1300 Bo. lets see what happens. the way things are going for me, i really need my own daily driver car. i know im going to kick my self in the @$$ for selling this especially if i make a loss.

 

why are you selling the car?

 

x2 why? well it has its problems but problems can be fixed, you get it up and running and in no time you will know the ins and out of your car, id say keep it.
it like i tell my girl you can buy a new/used car and spend 300 a month on it, or put 300 a month into the car you own and before you know its new,
and you know everything was done correct cause you did it,

 

my parents each have a car now, but my dad is letting one go because having 2 is too expensive.

with only 1 car i would never have a car to drive. i cant really be driving this car in winter either. being in Massachusetts that's a problem.

 

Put the Polara on the side. Save up some money and buy a $300 honda car or something.

It's like I tell my buddy who has a 64 Fairlane, DONT EVER SELL THE CAR. You'll wish you hadn't. He'd have like 15 of his ricer buddys convincing him to sell it and buy a ricer, or a WRX, or something. I could be the only one who would talk him out of it.

All cars take money man.. just fix it and get it going.

Sounds like you need studded snow tires.

 

why not? what did they drive in 65? i bet alot drove a 64 polara, i have no problems with RWD in the winter and it can dump over a foot of snow overnite here,

 

Welcome to the forum. And be sure to post pics after you get the car. I am a huge fan of the 64 polara's. Unfortunately the links you posted above are not working... well they are working but when you get to photobucket it says the pictures have been moved or deleted.

 

my car coughs like this constantly when trying to start it then just dies. and that is flooring it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i723...eature=related

 

my car coughs like this constantly when trying to start it then just dies. and that is flooring it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i723...eature=related


EDIT: just checked, and i have spark in all the cylinders.

 

"When the going gets tough..."

I'm sorry you are having so many problems with your car. I remember when I first started working on my own car, I had more failures than successes. But in hindsight most of the problems that I had were not major ones, I just didn't know what I was doing.

That you are getting a little backfiring and such when you are trying to start the car isn't necessarily a bad thing, it means that your adjustments are almost in the ballpark. You need to step back, take a breath, and then get your hands dirty again.

Turn your engine and line up the timing mark on the crank pulley to top dead center. Remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to where the #1 spark plug wire would be on the cap. The rotor should be facing it, or exactly opposite of it. If the rotor is pointing opposite of #1, turn the engine one more turn until the rotor points to #1 and the crank timing marks are again at top dead center. If you can't get the rotor to line up with #1 when the crank is a TDC, then your timing might be too far out of adjustment for the engine to run.

Once you have the rotor lined up, try starting the engine. If the engine starts, but dies when you let off the gas, advance the timing a little bit. If the engine backfires through the carb, or is kicking back against the started, retard the timing a little bit.

Once you get the engine started and it idles without putting your foot on the gas pedal, you need to set the timing. I described the process in an earlier post.

 

Timing chain jumped?

 

hope not he just replaced it

 

i should be getting the car towed to my school soon.im in auto now and my teacher said i can leave the car there as long as i need to get it running.

thanks for that "how to" sangetsu. so i don't need to set cylinder #1 to TDC, just that crank pulley?

 

if the crank is tdc so will the pistion, or very close if the chain was put on right,

 

alright thanks. ill start that today. my throat sore so school just wasn't an option today

does autozone purposely hire the DUMBEST people they could find? i went on there website and found a rebuild kit for a holley 2280 and a base gasket. (what my car has). right after school yesterday i call and ask if they got the parts in yet. the guy says they have them, so i head down and when i get there the guy says they don't have them. $5 in gas gone. then i go back at 8pm. they said they hadn't even ordered my base gasket, but they have my rebuild kit. i get the kit come home and open it up. the instructions inside say carter 2 barrel right on it. WTF! i call them right away and the guy says "well we can get you the right one, but you'll have to come in and exchange the other one before we can order the new one" i feel like i should ask these guys for a reimbursement in gas money for all this back and forth BS.

 

i put the crank at timing mark "0". then took the distributor cap off, and it was pointing more near the cylinder before #1, then i went to the next crank timing score, and then the rotor was pointing right after #1. can i just loosen the distributor and move it to point at #1

also was looking at the intake manifold, a little electrical plug was not plugged into the front of the intake manifold like it was supposed to be? what is this for?

 

The little electrical plug on the front of the intake manifold is for the water temperature sensor, and the wire that attaches to it comes from the temperature gauge on your dashboard.

If the distributor is pointing just before the number one spark plug wire then you have the timing advanced a bit. You can adjust it by loosening the clamp bolt and turning the distributor.

A carburetor kit takes a little bit of skill to install. Make sure when you rebuild your carb that you have no parts left over. Be very careful where you set your float level. Make sure everything is tight, but don't over-tighten any screws, the body of the carb is aluminum and cast zinc, which is soft and can be easily deformed. Make sure that you clean the carb thoroughly with carb cleaner when you have it apart.

Double check and make sure you have the spark plug wires going where they belong. Even competent mechanics sometimes make mistakes with these. The correct order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, which is probably cast on the intake manifold as well.

Make sure you have your tuning tools ready when you get the carb put back on. You'll need a tachometer, vacuum gauge, and a timing light.