Cat? you mean the neighbor's 4 legged one? That car was made 11 years before the 1st cars were equipped with them and it is NOT required to add them to a car that never had them; you might wanna lose the 3" exhaust though.

On the trans linkage I believe this car still had teh adjustable kind where it's threaded like a turnbuckle; if so the "4 barrel" linkage may not be so important.

and on teh subj of valveguide seals they are like $15 for the set. those and a set of valve cover gaskets will be all you need to change them. Oh and access to both an air compressor and a spring compressor the type for pulling springs while the heads are still on. Shouldnt btake more than a couple hours to do. I had to in my 78 Fury. (also a 318)

 

also looking at the style of valve covers that is definitely a 67-or nwere 318 NOT a "poly"; that carb is at least a 78 as thats when they started putting Holley 2 bbls on 318s (they mix matched Carters and Holleys at the time either will interchange)
just be sure that one has a port for vacuum advance if its a Lean Burn version it won't and vac advance wont work, your power and mileage may be down.
Look on the passenger side of the block you will see a date cast in. This is when the block was cast giving you a better idea what year engine you have.

as for the suggestion to "mill .0XX off the heads"; this is not a new car. someone may have already done so. meaning that if someone else milled 0.040 and you have 0.040 milled off then the heads will be 0.080 thinner than stock which could cayse intake manifold fitup problems and "to high" compression for the gas that is available today. Best bet is to look at head casting number take it and do an online search as to original CC size of chambers; have them measured which will help tell of past work; so you don't go "too far"; usually they are a lil larger than "published" specs.

on the valveguide seals I feel confident (but can't "guarantee" from several states away) that from what you say so far that your smoking issue will stop with the new seals installed on teh other head. Get it running the best you can as-is (those burnt wires are not helping any) make sure the plug wires are seated fully in the cap (I see too many taht are not meaning the spark has to jump 2 gaps) and look at the distributor; 1 wire coming out or 2? If 2 thats good; that means someone has done you a huge favor by converting to electronic ignition. No points to burn up.
If you have a points dist., youre gonna want to do teh conversion. Its not hard and helps with reliability.

 

milling and head and stuff, isn't going to happen for a long time. on a small budget. and before i do any expensive extra power stuff, i want the car to at least be presentable (carpet, head liner ect.)

hank really doesn't want me to put the 4 barrel on. he says i would lose my license. he wants us to just rebuild the 2 barrel on it and for me to use that. how much would are build kit cost? in summit, im getting around $50.

would the 4 barrel really help that much anyways? the way im thinking, since there's no valve work done, the 4 barrel wouldn't really help a lot. if the car cant get any more gas, it doesn't matter how much you dump on it. i have put the 4 barrel carb and intake on craigs for $200. is that a fair price?

i figure that with $200 i could get new plug wires/boots, carb rebuild kit, and the other sides valve seals. so selling it would get the car mechanically almost road ready.

what are your guys/gals thoughts?

 

When I bought my car I also only had one wiper. Not fun....trust me hahaha.

If one works, you probably just need to check out the linkage under the dash, its a long metal bar that connects to the motor, and the wiper arm. Both wipers are moved by one motor. That's an easy fix!

 

ya, i think just from rust on one side, it was stopping them both. it wont be long until i get that all done. where would i find wiper blades to fit though?

i found these plugs. there 8.5MM. will that work with my car/distributor? Right now i have 7MM.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TA...SLER|Liter|5.2

 

any parts store should have wiper blades and plug wires for ya.

On my car the bushings at the end of the wiper linkage were rotted, so the linkage kept falling off. The bushings were like two bucks though.

 

bushings? the side i took off didn't have any. haha. it was just a little metal rod that went up and the wiper had a tightening screw on it to hold it on.

 

8.5 mm wires will work but are a bit of an overkill. I always just use to run the 7 mm accel superstock wires.(the yellow ones), they work good and are reasonably priced. ( I like them cause they have that "80's street-racer look").[yeah I'm an old fart].

 

i think i saw those. the only reason i picked those ones was because they were blue. they go with the engine.

 

is there anyway to clean fuse connections? on my fuse box most of the fuse box contacts are really rusty. what can i do to clean them? could the this rust be making stuff not work?

 

ok, well now i have bigger problems. my brakes don't work at all. i go into my car, and am looking underneath it at electrical and stuff. then i notice my brake pedal is sagging a little. so i go to shake it a little to see if it would springs back up or something. and it just swings down. there is zero pressure on the pedal at all. WTF! any ideas on what happened?

EDIT: well i checked the brake fluid level. it is about 3/4 to an 1 inch form the top of the cylinder. also the cap on it was a little loose. could this have let air or something in?

 

ok, well im assuming that because the top of the master cylinder was loose that air got into the lines. so i have to bleed them. this will be my first time doing this.

is there a thread to step me through this? i tried to do a search on here, but it didnt work it said im missing a token or something? i tried doing a search on google but i don't know if it is different for cars with ABS, or for master cylinders with 2 lines.

thanks

EDIT: how full should my master cylinder be? my dad is saying to the top, but since cars nowadays have full lines that arnt to the top, i dont think that is right.

 

fluid should be up to the top. check around for other leaks though.

bleeding brakes is a two person job. this is a pretty good article: http://www.wikihow.com/Bleed-Brakes

Yeah! **** might not work if the contacts on the fuse box are corroded. Clean them off with a little piece of fine sand paper until they're shiny.

 

thanks samuelcosmo! that article is perfect.

ill get onto those fuses tomorrow to. thanks

 

well, my dads friend came over a little before i was going to do bleed the brakes. he says i don't need to. he got in. started the car, and started pumping the brakes. then the pedal lifted right back up.

now back to the endless list of other problems haha. thanks for the help.

 

worth the money?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65990

 

this may be stupid, and feel free to tell me if you think it is. i never made the connection, but in my living room i have a 1964 fire extinguisher. i was thinking maybe to mount the 64' fire extinguisher in the trunk my 64' Polara.

is this a stupid idea? i just thought it would be funny, and in-different my car from others at the car show this summer.

i couldn't really think of any way to mount it to the trunk very securely with out have to weld. ideas?

here's a pic of the extinguisher:

 

that would be cool hot rodders and new cars have always been putting new extinguishers in the cars and trunks just make sure it dosent go off it would be a nice mess to clean up

 

ya, that would suck pretty bad. Ive researched how they work, and i don't think it would go off.

i guess your supposed to flip them over and drop them on the top, and that little metal thing sticking out the top pushing inside on a glass canister with a chemical in it that mixes with another chemical already floating around in the extinguisher.

i hope it wont go off haha.

 

well, Ive decided that im going to start sanding. since i just have a palm sander, im going to use 180 grit. i just thought that since the palm can make flat spots easier starting with 180 would be safer. this sound right? i did research a couple weeks ago, and i might have worded that wrong or something.

im just going to start with the main spots keeping a little distance from the chrome at first. i think i need new clips for most chrome pieces, where would find them? i cant find them anywhere.

 

well change in plans. i was told that the paint on it now serves as somewhat of a protective barrier and that might as well leave it on until almost paint time.

i was going to take the plastic front dash pieces off my car and sand those and paint them. i got off the radio, tranny, and AC/heat covers. then i went to take of the one with all the gauges. i thought the plastic would just come off and leave the gauges, but the gauges are connected? i didnt want to mess anything up, so i put it back together.

 

do you have a haynes repair manual for the car? they're about 15 bucks, and really helpful.

 

i went to autozone to get one, but they didn't have one. i asked if i could order one and the guy said he wasnt sure how and i would have to come back another time. the autozone near me has there thumbs up there a**s. they have no idea what there doing. unless the main manager is there, he is the only one that knows anything.

i tried to get my valve seals there. the guy askes what engine. i say a 1970 318. he looks it up in the computer and he says to me
"they didn't make a 318 in 1970."
i said they did, and it turned onto a couple minute argument. he started to get mad saying
"pal, there is a list right here of the Chrysler engines in 1970. there is no 318!"
so i said that's funny because there's one in my car in my garage. after alittle bitmore the guy gets another worker. the other worker gets on the computer, it took him 10 seconds to find it. then he tells me they don't have the stock valve stem size, and that i need to find that out my self. that store is a joke.

 

what should i do about this?

 

it might be hard to find a repair manual for that car, i just did a google search....no dice.

auto zone sucks.....find a local parts store with some old timers that can help you out!

i guess you mean the empty space on the fuse block? there was probably never a fuse there. maybe it would have been used for a different model, or an extra factory option.

 

that is one of the most hilarious things I have read on here in a while (the auto zone deal) can you believe that a guy at an auto parts store wouldnt know about 318's. I think I would have reminded him that they are basically all the same up til they came out with the magnum 318's.
Oh, by the way, 318's have the same size valve stem size as a small block chevy. Does anybody at A-Z have any kind of a clue?

Hey, 64polara, it;s alright. This is one of my "top ten" items on the list.
It goes like this: Top ten indications that you might be a MOPAR addict.

1. If you've ever been escourted out of Auto-Zone by the
manager for starting a fight with the parts person behind the
computer, you might be a MOPAR addict.

{I've got others}

 

If you look on E-Bay you might be able to find a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.
Make sure you use those words in your search. There are also mopar manuals on cd.
{google}

 

hahahahaha start a "you might be a mopar addict if..." thread

 

haha. funniest thing Ive read all day.

im pretty sure that there was a fuse there before. i cant imagine that i wouldn't have noticed that before when i looked at it.

 

ok, so today i tried my best to tackle electrical.

what i did was find the coupler thing where wires all connect. i found on the wire diagram, that the red wire distributes power to the head lights. (i think).

i took the coupler thing off the fire wall plug in thing, and tested where the red wire goes in for power. i had the multimeter set to ohms, and it beeps and says short until it touches something electrical and then it stops beeping and says open (i think that howit works). when i tested the wire, it said it had power. so i plugged it in the thing on the firewall then i tested where the bottom coupler plugs in to see if power was there now. the multimeter started flashing form short to open quickly.

why? i have been thinking about it, and searching online, i just cant find out a reason why. at firsti thought it might be something with the blinker but im only working with red wires and those go to headlights.

thanks