440 stalls at operating temp
#1
440 stalls at operating temp
Here's another one for you guys. I pulled my motor and detailed the engine compartment. My buddy re-built my Holley vacuum secondary dual feed 750
carb. I put a new cap, rotor,plugs and plug wires on it also.With just a few pumps of the accelerator the engine fires up first crank every time, idles nice ...revs nice ... no hesitation or bog. Here's my problem: when the engine reaches operating temp 185-190 degrees if the car is in gear it will stall. Once stalled it will not start again till it cools to 165-170 degrees.I've been thinking Vapor lock may be the culprit, but i checked all my fuel lines back to the gas tank and nowhere are the lines getting hot enough to cause vapor lock. I replaced the rubber lines from the hard lines to the fuel pump and from the fuel pump to the fuel inlet an installed a cheap inline filter in the middle. I'm still using the old block mounted mechanical pump. I didn't touch the hard lines during my detail project.Any ideas fellas??? I really don't think it's vapor lock.
carb. I put a new cap, rotor,plugs and plug wires on it also.With just a few pumps of the accelerator the engine fires up first crank every time, idles nice ...revs nice ... no hesitation or bog. Here's my problem: when the engine reaches operating temp 185-190 degrees if the car is in gear it will stall. Once stalled it will not start again till it cools to 165-170 degrees.I've been thinking Vapor lock may be the culprit, but i checked all my fuel lines back to the gas tank and nowhere are the lines getting hot enough to cause vapor lock. I replaced the rubber lines from the hard lines to the fuel pump and from the fuel pump to the fuel inlet an installed a cheap inline filter in the middle. I'm still using the old block mounted mechanical pump. I didn't touch the hard lines during my detail project.Any ideas fellas??? I really don't think it's vapor lock.
#2
Couple things I would try.
Place a plastic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. Especially if you are using cast iron intake.
Adjust the idle bleeds and rpm when the car is WARM with vacuum guage. Not by ear.
Place a plastic spacer between the carb and intake manifold. Especially if you are using cast iron intake.
Adjust the idle bleeds and rpm when the car is WARM with vacuum guage. Not by ear.
#3
I threw a vacuum gauge on the manifold. the max number i could coax out of her was between 14.5-15hg psi max at idle. Does this sound about right ?? I still have 'nt tried the carb spacer. The car still dies when it gets to about 185-190 degrees.I'm stumped.... and frustrated... do you think it could be a timing issue??? I have a feeling you'll laugh, but I never put a light on it, just adjusted it by ear. Like i said, starts easy, revs nice.... until it gets warm ???
#6
#10
i might try relocating my coil. I tucked it right in near my intake manifold...
it used to be mounted on my fender well. I'll give it a shot. thanks guys.
it used to be mounted on my fender well. I'll give it a shot. thanks guys.
Last edited by Mr. Belvedere II; 06-25-2012 at 07:41 PM.
#11
I relocated my coil, but it still wanted to die on me. I think my coil is bad period. After it died on me the last time; I checked and ..... low and behold no spark!! Do any of you know of a reason why my coil would fail ??? Just worn out ?? or could there be some kind of extra load put on it that caused it to fail prematurely ???
#13
Same problem
I had that same problem but mine was starting hard and when i finally got it running i drove it, and it quit on the road but mine died because i wasn't using a big enough coil and when mine died it had no spark at all. I was suggested to use a napa coil its 5500 volts or amps i believe hope this helps
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TimN8er
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06-20-2012 07:13 AM