'76 Dodge Aspen
#1
'76 Dodge Aspen
Hi all,
I currently have a 76 Aspen with the famous 318 2bbl in her. The change in weather has proven to be fatal with cold starts. She has always been tempermental to an extent, but now it has become me going out to start her before dressing for work hoping she is going to turn over for me to let her warm up some.
Any ideas on how to improve my tuff starts is appreciated!
Thanks
Brenda
I currently have a 76 Aspen with the famous 318 2bbl in her. The change in weather has proven to be fatal with cold starts. She has always been tempermental to an extent, but now it has become me going out to start her before dressing for work hoping she is going to turn over for me to let her warm up some.
Any ideas on how to improve my tuff starts is appreciated!
Thanks
Brenda
#2
Let's begin by defining some terms
You say "turn over" I suspect you mean "fire" or "fire and run"
"turn over" means the engine rotates with a twist of the key, whether it tries to start and run or not
If the engine cranks or turns over OK, that means the starter, cables, battery are in good shape.
Likely causes in no order
Engine condition, meaning worn rings or not, valve condition, engine compression, or oil fouling of the plugs caused by oil consumption
Ignition tune, including condition of parts, mostly plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor.
Carb condition, especially the choke. Cars in the era of about 71--whenever EFI came out were generally TERRIBLE for carbs and chokes, due to emissions laws. Start by making sure the choke linkage is free, and that a little vacuum diaphragm called the "pull off" is operational.
There is no substitute, here, for the factory shop manual.
HOW?
===================================
I would get, beg, borrow some test equipment and run a compression and leak down test to determine engine condition. Look at the plugs for oil use as you do so. If there is an unknown amount of miles on the plugs, replace them
Examine the interior of the cap and rotor for moisture, oil, debri, or "carbon tracking." Replace if necessary. Test the spark plug wires with an ohmeter. If they exhibit excessive resistance, replace.
Carb. I always save them for last. if the idle speed and mixture can be adjusted and it's responsive and gets decent mileage and driveability, I would concentrate on choke condition and adjustment. For THAT you need a factory service manual.
You say "turn over" I suspect you mean "fire" or "fire and run"
"turn over" means the engine rotates with a twist of the key, whether it tries to start and run or not
If the engine cranks or turns over OK, that means the starter, cables, battery are in good shape.
Likely causes in no order
Engine condition, meaning worn rings or not, valve condition, engine compression, or oil fouling of the plugs caused by oil consumption
Ignition tune, including condition of parts, mostly plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor.
Carb condition, especially the choke. Cars in the era of about 71--whenever EFI came out were generally TERRIBLE for carbs and chokes, due to emissions laws. Start by making sure the choke linkage is free, and that a little vacuum diaphragm called the "pull off" is operational.
There is no substitute, here, for the factory shop manual.
HOW?
===================================
I would get, beg, borrow some test equipment and run a compression and leak down test to determine engine condition. Look at the plugs for oil use as you do so. If there is an unknown amount of miles on the plugs, replace them
Examine the interior of the cap and rotor for moisture, oil, debri, or "carbon tracking." Replace if necessary. Test the spark plug wires with an ohmeter. If they exhibit excessive resistance, replace.
Carb. I always save them for last. if the idle speed and mixture can be adjusted and it's responsive and gets decent mileage and driveability, I would concentrate on choke condition and adjustment. For THAT you need a factory service manual.
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