Ok guys/gals,
I've had this car for 12 years! 1972 satellite sebring plus 400. first run 400 beefy block. Slapstick, buckets, dual sport mirrors, winchester grey with black interior. Had no kids when i bought it. Now I have three. Barely have time to write this thread. I have done most of the work myself and the paint should be done any minute. Should have been done 6 months ago!All that is left is brakes and suspension then asseble the car.
I have an easy question, I think. I repaced the original rear with one from a 66 fury because the fury rear was about 1 inch narrower. It is a 8 3/4 3.23. But it is open. What do you, that have done the swap to a sure grip recommend. I believe this is pretty easy but have never done it before. I have a little extra so I was planning on buying a New/rebuilt suregrip if it just swaps right in place of the open unit.
Thanks for any response.

72Sebring+

 

The easiest is to get the suregrip that is clutch type. It bolts right in HOWEVER you do have to align the teeth properly. Ideally you use blue ink however grease can be used as well. What you want is to have there be no grease or ink in the middle of the crown gear as it rotates. The hex washer on either side is to adjust that. Once that is correct you can install the carrier back into the rear axle and then the axles themselves into the housing.

If you havent taken apart an 8 3/4 axle before the passenger side has the adjuster and keeper is at the bottom. You do not want more than 1/8 side to side play and no less than 1/16. I prefer to set it to 1/16 myself.

If you cannot get the axles adjusted remove them both as it means you need the buttons installed on the ends of the axle.

Auburn type clutches are also available however it is touch and go to how good they are used. They can be rebuilt if a good machinist knows what they are doing but I only know of one machinist that does this so far.

 

IF the third member was properly set up to begin with, that is, the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload was properly set, the only thing(s) you need to worry about is the ring to pinion clearance and the side bearing preload.

I've heard good things about the Auburn gear but never used one. Frankly, if you have no experience, I'd be tempted to find a reputable shop to set this up. That in itself, IE, finding a good shop, may be a project in and of itself.

 

I use the Auburn cone type in my Dart with no problems. The only problem I found was trying to locate new 323 gears. I had to settle with 355 gears.

 

If you buy one used or already rebuilt It is just a straight swap other than the axle preload.
You can use your existing 3.23 gear set Check the ring gear back lash before removal. Remove the ring gear carrier and replace it with a sure grip one and adjust the gear back lash to what you measured before removal

 

Thanks guys! Dont hesitate to add more if u think of anything else. I am sure that i can do it. It has been 20 years since i rebuilt a rear. And i wasnt sure if you could just swap a mopar suregrip for an open.
Also the 66 fury 8 3/4 3.23 that i have is completely rebuilt by a guy with 40 yrs experience! So it is good to go.
Thanks again!!

 

If you check the ring gear IT IS left hand thread as I remember

 

Maybe this will help:

http://jholst.net/64-service-manual/rear-axle.pdf

 

I will print that out and refer to it as I install the siregrip. Thanks again.

 

Old video available online if you want to watch. This so brings back memories!