I have a 1975 Dodge Power Wagon with a 318 engine and auto tranny. when you go to start it, you can crank it forever and it won't fire off till you release the key back to run position. I put a new ECU, ballist resister, ignition switch, and still the same problem. I even took a distributor out of another running truck and put it in. I have power going to the coil when the key is in foward position and run position. This is a problem because you can flood the engine. You never know how long to crank it before it will fire up. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stan

 

It sounds to me like the bypass circuit is not working, Check a wiring diagram and see if it still shows the brown "IGN2" circuit.

Traditional mopar igntion electrics work like this:

Your IGN switch is actually SEVERAL separate switches in one container.

The (traditionally) yellow comes directly from the IGN switch, goes through the bulkhead to the start relay, and if the trans is in park/ neutral, or if you have a stick with a clutch safety switch, the pedal must be depressed, the yellow then will fire the relay in "start."

The (traditionally) brown IGN2 "bypass" circuit comes from a SEPARATE contact in the ignition switch, goes directly to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor. It is hot ONLY in "start" and it's job is to provide hot 12V to the coil when cranking.

The (traditionally) dark blue IGN1 "ignition run" is hot ONLY in run, NOT start, so if the bypass circuit is not working, this circuit will not provide IGN voltage to the ignition system until you release the key.

THE OPPOSITE problem happens when you have a bad coil ballast. In this case, the "bypass" circuit fires the engine during "start" but when you release the key, the broken resistor cuts voltage to the system.

ALL these older Mopars are developing problems in the harnesses and ESPECIALLY the bulkhead connector. I'd advise you pull it apart at the least and inspect it, as well as the ammeter for damage.

Read this article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/

 

My diagram shows 440's "IGN 2 bypass" as a 14 gauge pink wire from the ballast resister through bulkhead (still pink) to the steering column connector up to ignition switch. Check voltage at coil or resister while cranking or check continuity through bulkhead to steering column connector, disconnected no current present.

 

AGREE I got to thinking, and found a rather poor diagram over at "My Mopar" The bypass on these is indeed pink.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/68t...uck_Wiring.zip

 

I had numerous problems with the wiring. The main one was the neutral switch in the transmission was bad. Thanks for all the help! It will live again.

 

the wires on the dual ballast resistor are on backwards, flip them 180 and swap sides they were on, or only one is reversed. Should fix it