70Coronet

I know this has been covered and I have read several articles already but cant get it right-so here the story-- had kickdown installed backwards-I do not have the correct bracket for the edelbrock carb-I realized it was wrong and swapped it around so when at full throttle the linkage was being pushed towards the fire wall, I can see the arm on the trans gets pushed backwards when the arm connected to the carb is pushed but it is not shifting right-seemed to stay in second gear-shifted actually better when I had it hooked up backwards-I have a show/cruise this weekend I really wanna get the car on and I am wondering if someone has a quick fix or somehting I'm missing here otherwise can I run it this weekend without it hooked up? Any ideas/comments

koondawg_74 roadrunner

I finally got my kick down figured out. It was set so that when it shifted from 2 to 3 you couldn't even tell because it was shifting early. The problem was that my carb wasn't able to reach wot because the kickdown was set too long and holding the carb back. The linkage was only off about two turns on the adjustable linkage by the carb.
Take the linkage off and hold it all the way back so the lever on the tranny is towards the rearend of the car. Then hold the carb at WOT and make sure the kickdown isnt forwards past the carb stud at wot. You want the stud on the carb to always be touching the kickdown though.
Also have someone under the car and someone in the car and have them push the gas all the way to the floor. Then make sure the lever on the tranny is all the way back. Your throttle linkage could be not letting it go all the way to WOT too. Also make sure there is a return spring.

70Coronet

I do have it set like your saying and I did make sure I have full open throttle before putting the linkage on the carb, I think its the piece bolted to the intake that is causing the problem-what way should the return spring be holding tension-pulling the linkage forward toward the front of the car or pulling the arm toward the fire wall????

70Coronet

Anyone have any input on driving it without the linkage hooked up for this weekend??? Thanks!

MrOldart2U

I am not for sure but I have heard that leaving it unhooked is harmful as it is on some of the late model GM trans, but dont take it as gospel... Maybe someone else will chime in on the matter and maybe give some hints on adj. You never said if it eventually goes into third or not.....

70Coronet

I didnt push it but it did not go into third-I ran it to about 4,000rpm and then let off

bremereric

You will damage your tranny by not running the correct throttle presure. At WOT it needs to be pushed all the way back.

70Coronet

I think I new that just needed someone else to actually say it to keep me from driving it.

TVLynn

Quickest way to burn up your trans is to drive without the throttle pressure - kick down disconnected.
I know Holly, Carter and other carb mfg make a special throttle linkage arm for the Mopars

Gorts 5th

i jst finished adjusting my kick down
the lever an the trans should jst be touching the resistance in the trany pressure spring. on my car 5th ave the adjustment is on the linkage at the trany i was having shift troubles with 2-3 run up problems my brother suggested that i hook the return spring at the carb kick down linkage to pull the linkage to the fire wall the original factory with lean burn setup was pullin it forward this was fine with that stock carb 2bl, engine set up but with the edelbrock avs it wasnt working, since we made the change the 2-3 shift is solid and the off idle run up was fixed (when hot in stop and go traffic)

70Coronet

I did order it I should have it in the morning gonna give the stock setup one more try before dumping the money on the cable setup. Thanks

Coronet 500

The correct bracket should have the same radius as the OEM this is important as the "rate" of motion will change with radius change. This can affect the mid throttle shifting points.

usedknobby

you can disconnect the kickdown linkage at the trans and move the trans lever about half of it's travel and wire it there and drive it without damage. Just make sure you move it enough that when you drive it it shifts at reasonable shift points.the kickdown won't work but you can at least drive it. as far as the kickdown, on my roadrunner i took it out in the country and just started tweaking the linkage. first i turned the adjustment at the carb end in about 4 turns drove it of course the shift points were way off so started moving it out about a 1/4 turn at a time until it shifted about where i wanted it to still didn't have kickdown so started adjusting the rod that goes down to the trans swivel turning it out a little at a time lengthening the rod so that it pushed the trans lever farther back after a few trys i had kickdown.

70Coronet

Thanks for the info gonna try to get it figured out with the new throttle bracket for my edelbrock but atleast if I cant get it I will be able to wire the arm back and take it to the cruise/show this weekend-you just made my day Oh and by the way love your runner! New it was a ringer for Mopar of the Month!

70Coronet

Just wanted to finish this thread out for anyone looking in the future-I did get the kickdown working, the problem was the linkage that the vertical rod connects to before the trans, it was binding up due to the angle of the bracket on the intake, bent the bracket to line up with where the vertical rod moved smoothly and where it was still close to lined up for throttle cable. Thanks to everyone for your help! I do have one more question-It downshifts good but I noticed at WOT it shifts from 1st to 2nd at 4500 rpm and 2nd to 3rd at about 4800rpm my small block is just coming alive at 4,500 rpm, I can hold it in gear with the shifter but its iffy shifting it at WOT on the column is there a way to get higher rpm?