I am on the process of building a 30x50 building for a shop,,it will house the Coronet and my other son a 69 Chevelle he is wanting to buy and rebuild....with this being said for those of you who have a shop what is it that (IF YOU COULD DO IT AGAIN) you would do or not do...I am planning on insulated with a car lift....But what are some other things that you could have to make life easy when working on the cars?

 

if it is on the same ground as your house. be sure the front is so you can see it from the house. and no windows on the side you cant see. the shop my dad built was not like that. and it doesnt feel good to not see the front of the shop. he all so had the electiron put in just one switch and light. then after it was inspected, dad redid the elec wiring him self, the way he wanted. he put one outlet on every other stud.

 

What I did in my 40X100 garage was installed cameras and DVR for security.. Also you want to see the overhead doors,, I have door openers in the house. one thing I wish I did was to have the ability to turn on the lights from the house.. I used Metal Halide lighting in the work bays they are 5000k lighting.. They Run on 220V but are so bright you don't need lead lights. I did alternating circuits 5 ft. apart on my walls 20 amp breakers with 20 amp. plugs/outlets..(most people buy 15 amp plugs/outlets) and 12/2 wiring wont work well on them... Another thing you need to do is insulate heavy I put R48 in the ceiling and R30 in the walls.. The doors you don't want to cheap out on. Mine are R19 insulated doors . (the best that were available at the time.) You also want ceiling fans (commercial) continuous run for air circulation and damp conditions. If you have classic cars it is a must.. Heat is important but if you don't insulate don't heat it because it will condensate badly and will rust everything in site.. That is just a few things to get you started...Bill

 

Don't be too concerned with the number of electrical outlets and where they are, most electrical tools you'll use have a '5 or shorter cord, meaning you'll almost always need an extention cord either way. Take my word for it, I'm an electrician by trade. Save your money for a good compressor.

 

An insulated room for the air compressor, mine and everyone I know has it in the work space and it's just annoying working with someone and yelling then talking normal.

If I could I would somehow have separation or a partitioned area for welding and grinding, I do quite a bit of it and it makes a mess of everything.

There are probably more, I'll think about it.

 

My neighbor would wish THIS^^ LOL

 

Wow I am glad I asked....Lots to think about....Thanks for the advice...

 

Another thing, "if I ever get the money....."

Whether you plan on using it or not, get hydronic heating tube installed in the slab, ready for heat. In fact, even if you have a simple home-made barrel wood heater, etc, you can put "coils" in there to convection heat or add a pump, and heat the floor. You will of course have to use what amounts to anti freeze

There are a number of ways to come up with a "boiler" including as simply as using a hot water heater and added pump. Since the system is enclosed, IE no further liquid in / out, even a cheap home water tank will last a LONG time. These can be oil, gas, LP depending.

Also, IF you use some sort of boiler, you can use an overhead coil..........these look like a hanging unit heater except they amount to a heat exchanger and fan. You pump hot anti-freeze through it for a "quick" boost.

Make sure you "spring" for "winter" insulation, pun intended. Even if you never heat it it MUST have some insulation to prevent sweating and rusting of equipment........and vehicles inside.

Never EVER allow anyone to talk you into, or to convince your self.......to use any form of "directly heated" appliance. These include but not limited to torpedo heaters, LP catalytic, and Kerosene wick heaters. There is a NUMBER of problems

1....Any combustion unvented heater introduces LOTS of water into the air............rust, corrosion

2....Any unvented heater produces vapors and at worst these can be CO (monoxide) and toxic, from mixing with garage vapors. This includes but is not limited to cleaners such as brake clean, paint thinner, .................and.........

3....Explosion hazard for the above same reasons.

"Code" in almost any jurisdiction requires any electrical or combustion equipment (burners) to be (I think) 18" above the floor. 2 feet is not too much. This includes electrical outlets

 

Hang electrical wind up rolls from the ceiling

 

This is a great suggestion, not enough people go for this. I keep telling customers they're going to need extension cords no matter what, this is a great way to accomplish that.

 

When I asked my mechanic son about this he said an overhead beam and trolley that goes across 3 bays like he has at his work.

At first I thought no but now, at my age, having that not just to pull an engine but to move heavier items across the shop to the bench sounds appealing.

 

I was thinking an air hose...

 

that too..

 

I agree on several ideas above... The insulation is a must I my area it's not for heat... Its to keep in the cool.... Yes, mine has air.... I don't want it much below 77 but to take the 98% humidity out.... Also I love my roll up extension cord and air hose... A must for every shop.... Even though I'm getting more and more battery operated tools you will still need the extension cords... Also make sure you have a circuit large enough there at your work bench... You will charge all your battery powered tools and run a grinder, drill or who know what... Much easier while you are building.. Also after all the inspections I put in a restroom.... Used a 250 gal tote for my tank and ran the commode and sink to it.... In the sandy soil of Florida no problem with much of a drain field.... With 99% being liquid no problems... I've been in my shop for over 6 years... Also listen about the windows... Insurance will like the fact of no windows.... Make sure you can secure your outside doors... Mine are roll-up and have a slide lock on each end... Plus the chain can be wrapped and b another lock.... I have 200 amp service in mine... I can weld and do what ever all at once... I do plan on a shower and that will require a hot water heater. I'm looking at a on demand gas one... Still thinking about this one... My wife says if I do this all I need is a cot and I can live in it!!!!!!!! I spend almost as much time in the shop as in the house now... She may be right.....

 

A lot of good ideas here, I to have a bathroom and a shower in my shop.. And don't forget the man cave with a kitchen, so when the guys come over you can watch the game and keep the mess out of the house. I did not put radiant heat in my floor the reason being: you have to plan the whole shop out before you pour the cement.. You cant drill into the floor for lifts, tire machines etc... I heat mine with waste oil and fuel oil.(Hot Air) it will heat with a candle it is so insulated. Last year I use only 200 gallons of fuel with the heat on from Oct.- April. and I live in upstate NY where the wind is blowing 24/7.. It cools the same way I cant give you a figure on the A/C because it is electric and the bill is the same year round.. One thing that I did and I am glad I did was the floor was power troweled and sealed so it has a real shine and can be slippery, But it cleans real easy and sweeps up nicely. You can wash and squeegee it with ease. As Mack said I spend a ton of time in the shop and could easily live in the man cave.. Not that I want to but could if I had to... Bill