No start
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern California
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No start
Hello everyone, I have a 1972 Plymouth Satillite Custom 4 door, 318 2 barrel, all original, I replaced the points and the dwell is at .33, which is within spec, i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires, my firing order is correct, 18436572, wires are correct and correct on the cap, the plugs are gapped at .035, and the points are gapped at .018, which is in spec, I have a no start condition, cranks over fine, but will not fire, could I have done something wrong or over looked it? Or should I start looking at other things electrical? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#2
Mopar Lover
Hello everyone, I have a 1972 Plymouth Satillite Custom 4 door, 318 2 barrel, all original, I replaced the points and the dwell is at .33, which is within spec, i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires, my firing order is correct, 18436572, wires are correct and correct on the cap, the plugs are gapped at .035, and the points are gapped at .018, which is in spec, I have a no start condition, cranks over fine, but will not fire, could I have done something wrong or over looked it? Or should I start looking at other things electrical? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#7
Start with a test lamp on the neg. side of the coil. See if it "blinks" when you crank it over, or look in the dist. for sparking at the points. You MAY have a bad condenser----new does NOT equal "good"---or may have shorted the connection, etc.
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern California
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I started out with source voltage from the battery (12.50v), with ignition on at the coil positive lead of voltmeter on hot side of coil and negative lead on negative side of coil, I got nothing, so now ignition off, I disconnected the negative side of my coil, with ignition on I put my red lead back on hot side of coil and my negative lead to the ground terminal of the battery, I got 12.43v, bad coil? Thank you all for all your help.
#9
I started out with source voltage from the battery (12.50v), with ignition on at the coil positive lead of voltmeter on hot side of coil and negative lead on negative side of coil, I got nothing, so now ignition off, I disconnected the negative side of my coil, with ignition on I put my red lead back on hot side of coil and my negative lead to the ground terminal of the battery, I got 12.43v, bad coil? Thank you all for all your help.
the points not closing
the points are closing but are defective, dirty, and not carrying current
the dist. low voltage "primary" wire is damaged and open
or the coil is open, unlikely if all you did was change points.
You need to find out if the points are switching.
Put your meter on the coil pos, and GROUND (the block) and key in "run." If you get "same as battery" (about 12V) at least you have voltage
Now with no other changes put your meter on coil neg. If you get 12V there, the points are open. ONCE AGAIN the best way to "see" this is use a TEST LAMP from the neg. coil terminal to ground.
If the lamp lights, points are open. Now crank engine and light should "blink." If it does not, look over the points gap, dist. low voltage wire, etc.
Do you understand how to gap points? You must "bump" the engine until the points are on the "high" point of the cam.
I never gap points very carefully, I just "rough" them in, and then use a dwell meter "on the starter." You can get them close with practice, then check them when running.
#10
Mopar Lover
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Good advice 440. Alot of folks dont realize the coil circuit is negatively switched. It is actually kind of hard to explain how it works, even if you know how it works.
#11
Mopar Lover
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern California
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great info fellas, I replaced the points in class at Whyotech, and I drove the car out of the shop and commuted to school for two days before doing the plugs, wires, and cap, It was my grandpa's car and he gave it to me to commute with, it gets 18 to 20 mpg! My Dodge truck gets 8 mpg, The points were gapped by my instructor he watched me install them and I watched him gap the points and he showed me how to find the dwell, well the wife said thats enough with the car tonite so I'll get at it in the morning, Thanx again everyone you all have been helpfull.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jbda
Engines, Exhaust and Fuel systems
8
04-01-2013 10:22 AM
MoparSon
E-Body
0
03-27-2008 04:10 PM