had oil change befor storing my 77 aspen befor winter,and they said nothing to me ,but i was just messing around in the garage and checked the oil,and on the dipstick was a bit of thick whit goop,now the oil was clean and clear but what the hell is this white goop?water or anti-freeze,,Do i have a blown head gasket? it dosent sound like it when i fire her up,but i have a friend who is good with older cars and he said i have a blown head gasket,,IS THIS POSSIBLE or is there another reason for the mystery goop..btw theres not much just enough to nottice on the edge of the dipstick

 

Well I can't think of any reason why there would be a white goop on there. If you had water or antifreeze in the oil it would settle to the bottom of the pan. Pull the plug if water runs out first then you have problems. Don't totally remove the plug but enough to let some kind of fluid out.

 

Was the white goop on the bottom of the dipstick or the top of the measurement section

 

it was on the tip of the dipstick,,just a little bit ,i put it in and out 3 or 4 times and it seemed to go away after wiping it off but what the hell is it ,,mr aspen a friend of mine says its prob a blown head gasket ,but **** i dont want to tear down the motor to find out that it was nothing

 

If it is a blown head gasket I would think you have have a misfire, milky oil. When you have it running smell the exhaust if it smells sweet that is an indicator. Um. other than that I can not think of what it could be. All those things are what I know to indicate a blown head gasket.

 

If you have a compression tester you can check that way with out tearing it down. I think most parts stores loan them out.

 

i had the lub shop even flush the motor with some motor flush befor adding the new oil ,i wanted it as clean as could could be befor winterizing her,i would have thought they would have notticed something at that point if something was wrong,,i know i need to replace one header gasket but **** ,to tear down the motor for nothing would suck,,but the lube shop ,,they were busy just looking at the car wanting to buy it from me,lol so they may have missed it??

 

I don't think a tear down is necessary until you know for sure there is a blown gasket. I would check those things first and go from there. I also don't know what the process of winterizing is.

 

Chances are good it was just condensation

 

i soooooo hope so

 

anyone else have any thoughts on it?????

 

I would say condensation, but if you really want to be sure, pressure test the cooling system.

 

Condensation at the tip i don't think so [possibly picked it up as you removed it] i suppose you have never see it before? It's possible when they pressure flushed it they dislodged something or overpressureized it who knows. Check it again tomorrow see if it returns,do your compression check [dry then wet] check your rad. see if the water has oil in it,drain the oil check for water. If everything checks out ok it's up to you what you do next. I do my own maintance i don't trust them places i know of too many folks who have had their car messed up. Good luck hopefully your car is not A.F.Ued.

 

ok thanks,,if anyone has any othe ideas let me know

 

How is your antifreeze level? I had an 87 IROC that blew a head gasket. It ran and sounded fine. I noticed the car was heating up faster than normal and was getting a bit of a smell. Antifreeze was down and I knew I had a problem. Cost me $3400. The first step my mechanic did was to take off the oil pan. You might start there.

Marty

 

Scotty -

A very small water leak into the oil will show up as what you're calling white goop. Something like thin white grease.

It should disappear when the engine is run.

If it's just condensation (sorry, but unlikely) it should not come back. If it's a small water leak, it will reappear only to disappear again when the engine is run and the cycle continues.

Had a similar problem with my old small block many, many moons ago.

Archer

 

Is the oil level over full? Is the radiator still full? You said it only had the milky look once and the other times it was ok. I think you have no problem, only condensation from sitting. Can you drive it for 10 or 20 miles to get it up tp temp. and get oil and water circulating good? After driving it, check the oil and antifreeze and check the exhaust for water out the tailpipe. It may have water out the tailpipe when you first start it, don't worry about that because it is normal. Check it after driving it. Let us know what you find and we will help you with other things to check if it is not ok. Good luck, I think you are fine.

 

There's also a combustion leak tester. Napa sells them. You put a seal onto the mouth of your radiator, add some test fluid, and start the engine. If you have a blown head gasket, the gasses getting into your anti freeze changes color of the fluid. Works great, I just confirmed a blown head gasket with it early this summer. A little costy, but you might find someone who has one, or be able to rent it from Napa.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Co.../dp/B0007ZDRUI

 

all fluid levels are full,i just went and checked it again and nothing on the dipstick when i pulled it out ,but when i put it back in and pulled out again a small amount of wite goop was ther ,,verry small ,oil was clear ,im thinking im picking it up when i put the dipstick in ,,it dosent sit flush and clean in the tube so i have a piece of black tubing on there to make it fit snug maybe thats it/? i ran the car for 10 min saw no sighns of it at all..ill check again tomorow ,,i dont want to sit around all winter thinking is a blown head gasket and being worried over nothing,,,all fluid levels were the same after 10 min of running,and anti freeze is still just green with no oil in it

 

its real cold here now in the negative degree temp range-10 could that be it ,a little moisture from the summer time now so cold it cant evaporate? its my first mopar so im a really green when it comes to these things,ive only owned her 5 months and only have 5600$ invested so far so im not to deep but a head gasket aint part of the plans,new chrome n paint were,,if i have to get into the motor ,i might as well tear it down and put new gaskets all around while im in there and check out the cam

 

it goes fast as snot now ,and was told the motor was re-built 10,000 km ago but that could be a fairy tale,i have no idea the cam or whats been done but mr aspen a friend of mine who has seen her run say somthing is deffinatly going on in there cause it shouldent be putting out the amount of hp it is,someone has done something,still cant find the 318 mark on the block ,but it has 318 heads ,,now its a super pack so i would assume it would have came with a 360 so maybe its a 360 block with 318 heads on it ???i have no idea other than it goes like quick silver wont hardly grab in 1st or second gear,just screams and lays rubber,dosent really make sence to me ,,i did just buy a sure grip for the rear so hopfully that will alow me to put power to the road ,,i even put ladder bars on it with little results,,,it just goes squirley,and im not into the pedal much,and the rubber is brand new herculese 4000 series,,225/60/15on the front and 275/60/15s on the back

 

is your air breathers clean and i would not just start it if your storing it for the winter as you will get condensation from it going from cold to hot then shutting it down , I change my oil at the end Valvoline 10w30 and the begining of the season 20w50 for it as i heat my shop up during the winter months and yes i do get condensation in it from that as i tend to start it about 15 ta 20 times in the 4 months we are cold here and you will get the dampness in the motor but also make sure you have good breathers on it as it will help alot <<<>>> trust me been doing this for a long long time as im sure mr340 will agree ( also safe side do a pressure check ) /rad check

 

got k/n filters all around,,i hear there good

 

Scotty, this sounds very similar to my Ram 5.2 story. Started after the radiator leak and an overheat. I was getting the foam at the top of my dipstick. I thought about condensation, but my commute is 44 miles, so that would burn any random condensation. This was at about 140k miles. Oil light also started flashing at 180k. Dropped the pan and saw antifreeze slowly dripping from one of the cylinders. I have 265k on it now. But bearings are knocking and rings are shot. Before you get to this point, I recommend an engine-oil analysis. They are about $25. Other than a report on the various heavy-metals floating around your motor, this will tell you if it is just water from condensation, or ethylene glycol. Cheap price compared to all the lost sleep!. And compared to wiping out some bearings. Here's one place I found. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Good-luck, Scott

 

u guys will luugh but i have no idea what my motor temp is the guaGE THat READS IT DOSent read ive been working on the guages and the oil pressure guage is the omly one hooked up so far my counsil is pretty much dead ,lights and signals work but no amps?no temp?major bugs in her

 

so wher do get one of these tests?????????????????????????????????

 

Um, follow the link I posted. Or "google" "engine oil analysis".

 

sorry to many beers that night ,,lol,,got ya ,,no white gunk today though,,good sign

 

It's just normal condensation. Got on the tip of the dip stick when you checked your oil.

 

I've NEVER had normal condensation on a motor that wasn't sick. Every time I saw that, it turned out that I DID have an issue. If his drives are over 5 miles, then that condensation would be burned. $25 for an engine oil analysis is starting to sound like a bargain now compared to all the wondering!