larj

I was woundering what others may use for paint in doing a restoration. I mean the origional type enamel or acryl/enamel or base coat clear coat. Numbers matching car like a hemi cuda-rt charger etc. A car that will not be driven on the roads just a show car. Thanks

challenger

i would use alot of laqaur and clear it or just the basic enamel just i like the shine more from the laqaur then the new base/clear , its alot more work but in the long run i like it better.... go between 6 and 7 mills of paint and sand all imperfections out but get it back to around 3 to 4 mills then clear then buff to a high shine IMO

Archer

Challenger -

I'm with ya on a lacquer, but most "professional" shops around these parts can't touch it any more due to OSHA regs.

So I'm in the same boat as larj. The paint on my car is lacquer and still looks good, but has a few small problem spots. The body guys I spoke to (who were honest about it) said, if you're used to lacquer, you won't be happy with the newer paints and some went as far as to say, LEAVE IT ALONE!!!

Archer

1966sportfury

Archer

66 -

Most "hobbyists" don't have employees who could be put at "risk", aren't trying to us it day after day and you really can't shut down a business that doesn't exist.

Not saying it makes sense, just the way it is.

Archer

larj

So you guys would use lacquer and then clear or not, and not the factory synthol? What does/would this do to the value of the finished car?

1966sportfury

archer
i know i wasnt bad mouthing you i was just sayn the average joe can buy lacquer but pros cannot,
im not a big fan of lacquer my self it shines better yes, but it oxidizes fast and is prone to cracks,
then again lacquer really isnt a "paint"

Archer

66 -

No problem buddy and I'm not sure the OSHA regs are that valid either. just is what it is.

A lot of people told me the same thing about lacquer only lasting about 7 years on average, due to oxidation etc. Now, I'll admit that the Charger spends most of it's time in a garage, but the paint is over 25 years old. The only "damage" is from road rash and a klutzy owner ....

larj -

I don't think a clear coat is necessary over lacquer, IMHO it sorta "dulls it".

What I usually tell people is that when I look at my car in the garage, all I can see is the ceiling! OK, a good coat of wax helps!!!

Album

Archer

challenger

the base coat clear coat is the easiest way to go and it wont hurt the value of the car as far as i no, and the reason laqaur cracks most of the time is the way its put on and the thickness of how much you put on and leave as laqaur does crack most time with over 3 to 4 mills put on ,and if for some reason you have a bad day and it gets dinged and it takes body work they will not usually touch it so i guess you might just want to base and clear it as every one does it now anyways and it will look good as any other if done right

rcknrolfender79

I would say base coat clear coat because it is easier. Just make sure you get plenty of clear on to ensure that you will have plenty to went sand off, that is where you will get it to look wet. And start with around 1100 grit and work your way up to around 3000 grit. And soak your sand paper prior to sanding and keep a rag in your bucket and make sure you keep it plenty wet as you sand. If you go this way and do it right you will end up with an amazing paint job, beyond show quality. Just make sure you have plenty of clear coat. I didn't put enough on my hood and was getting down to the base coat before I got it to shine like I was wanting. I put 7 coats on it, but I was spraying it very lightly because I was worried about runs.