Update on the Scout
Shackles
This is what I run... the rear are the noted D&C ones... the front are my own "Got Scout Monster Shackles"... which remain stock height... but are double thick and sleeved with welded grade 8 washers... and then I use the stock cross brace.
Oh... missed above... beef your steering box at the frame. Weld 1/4" plate between pump and frame.... clean frame with you remove pump... search hard for cracks (they are there!) ... weld them up... then weld on plate... rebolt box.
Oh... missed above... beef your steering box at the frame. Weld 1/4" plate between pump and frame.... clean frame with you remove pump... search hard for cracks (they are there!) ... weld them up... then weld on plate... rebolt box.
From pics above... and your usage... let me throw some things at you that scream inside my head:
Get RID of those hokey extended shackles. Replace all rubber with Poly (if not already done so)... and put in a 1.75 - 2.25" bodylift.
For the front shackles... go back to the original ones, and use the center brace plate. It kills the road wander, and your current caster nightmare. Also put a 3°-6° steel wedge in the front spring pack to make driving polite.
Rear can have extended shackles... but use (make) better ones! 6" bolt to bolt is max, with a center bolt as well. Make from 3/8" plate. D&C Extreme used to make the best ones... google those and copy.
For conditions you drive in... pull the rear wheels... stick a hose up and inside and over the hump and flush out... knock out all the corrosive build-up that you will discover.
While here... see that drain plug on the front inside of the well? Pull it... you need draining. Moving along... see the end of the rocker... with that partial cover?... cut it out. Now ream the rocker in and out extensively with the hose... Now get a drill with 1/2" drill bit... and underside of rocker... drill a hole every 12" or so (seriously)... now ream with hose a few more times.
Open doors... change to a 3/8" drill bit... on the inside ledge of the lip (into the rocker) ... drill a series of interior drain holes... again about every 8-12"... and at the rear end of the lower floor... push out the DRAIN PLUG. (If rollbar is covering it... drill a 1/2" drain hole here.)
Back to the rear hump.... you know that big hole you were able to stick hose up into?... THAT IS THE PROBLEM! Your tires flick EVERYTHING up in there too... that causes the rear fender lip and lower death you see in all Scouts. So... make a semi triangular splash guard to fit there.. and screw/weld in place.
Once all above is done... and clean... and dry... paint with Herculiner and be done with it. Inside the rocker... take some Herc. and thin it WAY DOWN with Xylene... get a long rod and wire wrap a rag on it... wear GLOVES!... now dip the rag in the thinned herculiner... and ream the rocker... effectively painting / coating it. Inside lip as well etc. Don't worry about the run through and drip out... the holes are now protected and coated, and rockers are safe from debris, sea and road salts, and easily cleaned out now from the rear.
Enjoy!
Oh... your brakes... upgrade to Hydro Boost. Google "Vanco Hydro Boost Scout"
-Big.
Get RID of those hokey extended shackles. Replace all rubber with Poly (if not already done so)... and put in a 1.75 - 2.25" bodylift.
For the front shackles... go back to the original ones, and use the center brace plate. It kills the road wander, and your current caster nightmare. Also put a 3°-6° steel wedge in the front spring pack to make driving polite.
Rear can have extended shackles... but use (make) better ones! 6" bolt to bolt is max, with a center bolt as well. Make from 3/8" plate. D&C Extreme used to make the best ones... google those and copy.
For conditions you drive in... pull the rear wheels... stick a hose up and inside and over the hump and flush out... knock out all the corrosive build-up that you will discover.
While here... see that drain plug on the front inside of the well? Pull it... you need draining. Moving along... see the end of the rocker... with that partial cover?... cut it out. Now ream the rocker in and out extensively with the hose... Now get a drill with 1/2" drill bit... and underside of rocker... drill a hole every 12" or so (seriously)... now ream with hose a few more times.
Open doors... change to a 3/8" drill bit... on the inside ledge of the lip (into the rocker) ... drill a series of interior drain holes... again about every 8-12"... and at the rear end of the lower floor... push out the DRAIN PLUG. (If rollbar is covering it... drill a 1/2" drain hole here.)
Back to the rear hump.... you know that big hole you were able to stick hose up into?... THAT IS THE PROBLEM! Your tires flick EVERYTHING up in there too... that causes the rear fender lip and lower death you see in all Scouts. So... make a semi triangular splash guard to fit there.. and screw/weld in place.
Once all above is done... and clean... and dry... paint with Herculiner and be done with it. Inside the rocker... take some Herc. and thin it WAY DOWN with Xylene... get a long rod and wire wrap a rag on it... wear GLOVES!... now dip the rag in the thinned herculiner... and ream the rocker... effectively painting / coating it. Inside lip as well etc. Don't worry about the run through and drip out... the holes are now protected and coated, and rockers are safe from debris, sea and road salts, and easily cleaned out now from the rear.
Enjoy!
Oh... your brakes... upgrade to Hydro Boost. Google "Vanco Hydro Boost Scout"
-Big.
Joe... new 440 Scout coming!!!
hey Joe... just a heads up if you are thinking Scouts again... I have a new personal Scout (74) I'm going to be building.. named "Next Year"...
Tote rust free mint body... no motor or trans...
Have a mopar BB bell already mated to an IH 727 and D-20...
Just returned from buying a 440-3 (improved cooling heads industrial block)
that is going in...
This will be fun... (of parts for a 440-3... fun like Scout parts!!!) Grrrrrr
-Big.
Tote rust free mint body... no motor or trans...
Have a mopar BB bell already mated to an IH 727 and D-20...
Just returned from buying a 440-3 (improved cooling heads industrial block)
that is going in...
This will be fun... (of parts for a 440-3... fun like Scout parts!!!) Grrrrrr
-Big.
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