So im re-installing my valve covers on my 318 poly and need to know how much to torque the bolts down, thanks

 

3-5 ft/lbs. but seriously, just snug em with a 1/4 ratchet.

 

Wouldn't hurt to throw them up-side-down on the bench and check them with a straight-edge before you re-install them. Just saying that gaskets are made to work with STRAIGHT valve covers! More torque is NOT a substitute for an even sealing surface! Plus, a de-greased valve cover surface, with a spritz of Permatex gasket adhesive, can go a long way to fixing small deviations.

 

What has worked for me:

With a metal core gasket snug them good and tight. With a molded rubber or cork I snug the center bolt or accessible one as to not compress the material so I don't distort the bolt whole circle and or squash the gasket and cause weeping. Then get the TWrench out and see where I am at. Do the rest at that rate. Using "inch pound" wrench.

My mentor showed me back in the day how to take the bolts, place them in your hand with a couple squirts or "Orange Pumice" and work them clean under running warm water. It gets the grit, old silicone, etc ... out of the threads and prevents false readings or "feel" when tightening. Rinse well and install. Done when fixing a poor previous attempt at repair. We've have a parts washer now but the old way works just as well. And is cheaper....

As said above. MUST be straight. Over torquing could distort and warp them.

 

I like the pumice trick! PK1, did you read about my ghetto parts washer with an electric roasting pan and a Simple-Green and water mix? Thing works great! Heat is the key. At he factory we dont even use any solvent-based tanks. They are are all citrus based soaps and heat.

 

You serious with the heat trick?? Or just busting my chops for my poor mans wash
If that heat thing works post some details.... That sounds like a very easy and safe alternative to flammable solvents. Temp needed ? do you need to agitate it or let it sit?