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-   -   1970 FY4 Gold Plumouth /6 Duster (https://moparforums.com/forums/f66/1970-fy4-gold-plumouth-6-duster-2945/)

chlngr1970 May 3, 2009 01:30 PM

1970 FY4 Gold Plumouth /6 Duster
 
5 Attachment(s)
I thought I did this a LONG time ago :confused:

Anyway, I picked up this car in the mid 90s in a trade for a Lemon Twist 1971 Duster Twister 318 car I had, and $1500. When I got it, it was a friends race car. It had already had a 340/727/8.75 transplanted along with BBC disc brakes. All the hard work done :D A previous owner had also put in Pontiac bucket seats, patched the right rear floor pan, and a small hole under the brake peddle. The body is fairly straight. Someone was kind enough to slam their car door into the drivers door, and I got rear ended when I lived in Texas by an S10 ( they had to use a tow truck to get her out from under my car :eek: ) Aside from the floor pan/trunk pan rust, the quarters are actually in pretty good shape. I can probably get away with patches back there.

Current configuration:
  • 340
  • 727
  • 8.75 3.23 open
  • Hooker/no name headers ( long story )
  • MP electronic ignition
  • Holley 3310-2 750 CFM Vac Secondary carb
  • MP 284/484 cam
  • 2.5" Dual exhaust to a crossover pipe dumping in front of the rear axel
  • Centerline Autodrag 15X5 front, 15X8.5 rear

I pulled the Pontiac seats in favor of a set of bucket from a Chrysler Cirrus. I haven't installed them yet, I have to modify them to fit the floor pan, and my floor pan needs to be replaced. I want to get them mounted so when the new floor pan is installed, it's just a simple drill and bolt in deal. Mini tubs, and thinking about a cage. I'm on the lookout for a Dana 60 rear for the Stroker 400 I want to build this winter. I'm going to build a custom console to to house the Hurst Quarterstick, and Pioneer AVIC-D2 navigation deck. Front speakers will be Alpine SPS 600C component speakers, Alpine SPS609 rear deck speakers and an Alpine PDX 100.4 amp. Dunno about subs yet...probably keep it Alpine. I'd like to add power door locks so I can put an alarm with keyless entry :) I'd LOVE to do a remote start, but I'm not going to go computerized engine managament. A whole lot of "I wanna" and not near enough green to do it.

Plumb crazy paint, A-Body dual snorkel hood scoop, 71 340 Sharktooth grill, and a Go-Wing round out the looks. I figure probably 4 years once I start this winter. I already have the 400 and 727 ( I have extras :D ) so, now it's a matter of getting all the new parts, and installing them.

j

78D200 May 3, 2009 02:33 PM

Sounds like a great project and you have a great base to start with.

67 GTX May 3, 2009 04:00 PM

this will be a sick project

chlngr1970 May 4, 2009 01:34 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Some more pix...

and I replaced the AVIC D2 in my Volvo with a Z2...

I now have a Nav deck for my Duster! :D

I also made the brackets for the front seat front moutns...

scotts74birds May 4, 2009 01:45 PM

Forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know, but you are going use an original seat anchor point, or weld in a reinforcement for the seat anchor. Right? Just want you to be safe.

Crazy4Carz.Com May 4, 2009 02:18 PM

For best weight distribution, move the battery to the passenger side of the car rather than the drivers side. This will plant the weight over the correct tire when launching the car. For the same reason you want it in the trunk you need it on the right side. Also be sure to mount a battery disconnect in the rear of the car with the battery back there.

chlngr1970 May 4, 2009 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by scotts74birds (Post 18756)
Forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know, but you are going use an original seat anchor point, or weld in a reinforcement for the seat anchor. Right? Just want you to be safe.

Yeah, I'm getting some reinforcement welded on the new floor pans. I saw somewhere that welding four 3X3, or 4X4 steel plates to reinforce the attaching points should be exactly what is needed. So, I'm going to set the seats where they will be mounted, mark it off, weld in the plates, and drill through that. The bracket will bolt to the floor, and to the seat bracket. The rear bracket will bolt through the supported floor pan.

j

chlngr1970 May 4, 2009 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by Crazy4Carz.Com (Post 18758)
For best weight distribution, move the battery to the passenger side of the car rather than the drivers side. This will plant the weight over the correct tire when launching the car. For the same reason you want it in the trunk you need it on the right side. Also be sure to mount a battery disconnect in the rear of the car with the battery back there.

That was my understanding when it was installed that the left rear tire is the one that needs the weight, because if you watch a car launch, it's always the left front that lifts first. That is why I was always confused as to why it was over the passenger side :confused: Anyway, moving the battery to the other side isn't an issue. I also plan on putting in a box. Also, isn't there supposed to be a divider between the trunk compartment and the cockpit if the battery is mounted in the trunk? I was looking at having an 1/8" sheet of aluminum cut to divide take care of that.

Also, would running dual batteries help with the slow cranking that I get? I dunno, there is SO Much that I CAN do, and so much I want to do, it's going to be a long project.

j

Red Devil May 4, 2009 05:24 PM

sounds like you got another sweet project, can't wait to see it in progress

rr69half6bbl May 5, 2009 05:08 AM

dude, sounds like a street killer in the rough. awsome. I love big block a- bodies. good luck on the build, let us know if you need any help.

67 GTX May 5, 2009 01:54 PM

2x on that


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