318 Idle issue
03-20-2013, 04:22 PM
#1
318 Idle issue
Hello everyone, Ive got a 89' D250 pickup 318/TBI. Truck does this all the time even after its warmed up, but when I rev it up then let off the gas the engine does not immediately idle down. It lingers for about 5-10 seconds then gradually idles down. I replaced the TPS and IAC valve and its still doing this. Ran seafoam in my gas in case something was clogged. Still nothing. And secondly anyone know how to properly adjust the IAC valve? is has a long bolt you can run in or out against the throttle arm. Couldnt find any info in the repair manual so I just ran it in to match the one I pulled out. Thanks for the help!
03-20-2013, 04:49 PM
#2
Do me a favor turn the key on and off three times and leave it in the on position on the third try. The engine light will blink 2 digit codes.
There will be a few codes 12 battery disconnect, 33 ac cutout relay(comes even if you don't have ac in truck) other codes and ends with 55 which is end of codes.
21 23 are oxygen sensor codes which I believe will come up. The o2 sensor is located on the drivers side manifold right at the bottom where it bolts to the y pipe. It's a royal bitch to change.
You will probably also get lean fuel and rich fuel condition codes which is why your trucks idle does not come down right away. With the truck in service mode it puts extra fuel into the engine.
There will be a few codes 12 battery disconnect, 33 ac cutout relay(comes even if you don't have ac in truck) other codes and ends with 55 which is end of codes.
21 23 are oxygen sensor codes which I believe will come up. The o2 sensor is located on the drivers side manifold right at the bottom where it bolts to the y pipe. It's a royal bitch to change.
You will probably also get lean fuel and rich fuel condition codes which is why your trucks idle does not come down right away. With the truck in service mode it puts extra fuel into the engine.
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BigInch (03-23-2013)
03-20-2013, 08:31 PM
#3
Yep Jacilynn, I also got 17-Engine stays cool too long, 22- Coolant sensor signal out of range, and (like you said) 52-Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position. Right after I picked the truck up I unhooked my water temp sensor to hookup my mechanical gauge, maybe I ought to "T" it and run both. Also I cut the cat out and straight piped to a flowmaster. I left the breather tube that runs to the cat hanging, do you think that would cause the issue with the 52 code? Thanks for your help. If I didnt have to pass smog every 2 years I'd cut all this emission stuff off in a heartbeat
Last edited by BigInch; 03-20-2013 at 08:38 PM.
03-20-2013, 11:04 PM
#4
no its mostly just your o2 sensor being shot change it. You have a choice in the matter you can go to chrysler and pay $128 for a new one after you measure how long the wires are from the manifold to the connector.
Go to a parts store and get a universal 4 wire unit and put that in.
Or go to a salvage/scrap yard take one off that looks new and change it with yours. There is some videos on the internet showing how to test one with a meter and a propane torch.
cat converters last about 2 years then empty themselves all over the road or people cut them off cars as the platinum in them sells for good money.
The tube that runs under the truck comes from the air pump system it really doesn't care if it's hooked in or not. Half of them rot off the cat converters and end up being welded into place. You can weld a pipe plug onto the pipe and put the tube into there if you wish wont really make a difference to the system it will sorta clean your exhaust up a bit if the pump is working. These early systems have one o2 sensor on the manifold and nothing later on. The 2 o2 sensors started later on trucks and most cars.
There is special sockets or tools just to remove the sensor and unfortunately you will need them as the darn thing is countersunk into the manifold making regular sockets or wrenches impossible.
If you go under the truck and look straight up on the drivers side right infront of the manifold next to the engine crossmember you will see the darn thing. Have fun changing it. Believe it or not the one on my 91 powerram is worse there is exactly 6 inches of room to get up there from underneath and no chance from the front. I have the socket and the sensor just have not really felt like crawling underneath in the middle of winter to change the darn thing.
17 and 22 may go away as well with the engine not running in a rich condition. Or you can change thermostats. Winter is a 195 summer is a 180. If you can get a cast iron thermostat housing. You may also have a broken wire going to the sensor a visual check of the harness will tell you quite a bit. Or it could be from when you tested it.
To clear the codes go on and off three times and on third time start the engine. The other choice is to leave the battery disconnected for a day.
Go to a parts store and get a universal 4 wire unit and put that in.
Or go to a salvage/scrap yard take one off that looks new and change it with yours. There is some videos on the internet showing how to test one with a meter and a propane torch.
cat converters last about 2 years then empty themselves all over the road or people cut them off cars as the platinum in them sells for good money.
The tube that runs under the truck comes from the air pump system it really doesn't care if it's hooked in or not. Half of them rot off the cat converters and end up being welded into place. You can weld a pipe plug onto the pipe and put the tube into there if you wish wont really make a difference to the system it will sorta clean your exhaust up a bit if the pump is working. These early systems have one o2 sensor on the manifold and nothing later on. The 2 o2 sensors started later on trucks and most cars.
There is special sockets or tools just to remove the sensor and unfortunately you will need them as the darn thing is countersunk into the manifold making regular sockets or wrenches impossible.
If you go under the truck and look straight up on the drivers side right infront of the manifold next to the engine crossmember you will see the darn thing. Have fun changing it. Believe it or not the one on my 91 powerram is worse there is exactly 6 inches of room to get up there from underneath and no chance from the front. I have the socket and the sensor just have not really felt like crawling underneath in the middle of winter to change the darn thing.
17 and 22 may go away as well with the engine not running in a rich condition. Or you can change thermostats. Winter is a 195 summer is a 180. If you can get a cast iron thermostat housing. You may also have a broken wire going to the sensor a visual check of the harness will tell you quite a bit. Or it could be from when you tested it.
To clear the codes go on and off three times and on third time start the engine. The other choice is to leave the battery disconnected for a day.
Last edited by jacilynn_s; 03-20-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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BigInch (03-23-2013)
03-21-2013, 05:37 AM
#5
Mopar Lover
those cat's only lasting two years is that a dodge thing or a big three thing?
the reason i asked is just the other day we removed my brothers cat on his Nissan truck thinking the same thing but it was in great condition...after 18 yrs and 150k+miles.
the reason i asked is just the other day we removed my brothers cat on his Nissan truck thinking the same thing but it was in great condition...after 18 yrs and 150k+miles.
03-21-2013, 04:17 PM
#7
no actually seems to be with everything from import to domestic. Doesn't seem to matter. BUT that might be climate related.
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