383 timing issue
07-17-2013, 05:00 AM
#1
383 timing issue
Finally got her to spark and kick over, But I'm having trouble timing her. I set it at TDC on compression stroke, Pulled the number 1 plug, Hand cranked til felt compression pushing my finger out, Checked the distrib, I put the number 1 plug to where the rotor was pointing, Looking down at the HB the timing marks are NO where near where it should be. I'm at a loss for words here. I've replaced the plugs,Wires,Cap,rotor, points, condensor. Yes It's getting spark and fuel, Just not wanting to start. She'll start to wamp wamp and that's it. Can ANYONE give me any advice? My uncles owned countless old mopars but hasn't worked on them in so long and my father hasn't worked on anything this old. It's a 1967 Plymouth Fury 3, 383 2bbl.
07-17-2013, 05:46 AM
#2
Mopar Lover
Try a straw down the plug hole and hand wrench the crank back and forth to get a bit more accurate TDC. At that point do your plug wires, check rotation and order. When you align number one point the rotor just AFTER not before in the direction of rotation and this will give some advance to start.
My son had a problem like this and for me it is always back to basics and double check. He got it started you will too.
My son had a problem like this and for me it is always back to basics and double check. He got it started you will too.
07-17-2013, 07:34 AM
#3
"use a straw." yeh.......why don't we do this RIGHT?
Because these girls are old, and because things like motorhomes, which have the timing marks are in different places, AND because occasionally because balancers "slip" the outer ring, the timing mark may not be accurate.
Easy to check, and only takes a few minutes.
Buy or make a piston stop.
Like this:
https://www.google.com/search?newwin...mg.C80bU_Cm1LM
Remove the no1 plug, and make sure the piston is "down a ways." Remove the battery ground for safety, and screw the device in. You may have to "play" with the length the first time you use it. You are NOT trying to stop the piston at TDC, but rather "at some point" as it comes up.
Rotate the engine with a socket until the piston stops on the device. Carefully make an accurate temporary mark under the TDC mark on the tab onto the balancer.
Repeat this rotating CCW. Now you'll have TWO temporary marks, and true TDC will be 1/2 way between, and if the original mark is accurate, that is where it will be
=================================================
So far as your distributor timing, remember that a BB/ RB distributor rotates LEFT, or CCW, so the rotor should be APPROACHING the corner of the plug tower as it rotates CCW.
Do NOT "static time" the engine at TDC, but rather "where you want" intitial timing to be. I always set for at least 10*, a hot cam can handle a lot more, 15-20 BTC
Bring the marks up, using your "finger in the hole" to feel compression, or if one valve cover is off, you can look at the no1 or no6 valves and see which pair is "both closed" (ready to fire) or "both open" (opposite cylinder firing)
If you have points, rotate the dist CCW (retard) a ways, then slowly BACK CW (advance) until the points JUST open with a voltmeter, lamp, or ohmeter. At this point, the rotor should be right at the plug tower, and IT SHOULD RUN
If you have breakerless, rotate retard, then slowly back advance until the reluctor is pretty much centered in the pickup coil. Should start and run with no fuss.
Because these girls are old, and because things like motorhomes, which have the timing marks are in different places, AND because occasionally because balancers "slip" the outer ring, the timing mark may not be accurate.
Easy to check, and only takes a few minutes.
Buy or make a piston stop.
Like this:
https://www.google.com/search?newwin...mg.C80bU_Cm1LM
Remove the no1 plug, and make sure the piston is "down a ways." Remove the battery ground for safety, and screw the device in. You may have to "play" with the length the first time you use it. You are NOT trying to stop the piston at TDC, but rather "at some point" as it comes up.
Rotate the engine with a socket until the piston stops on the device. Carefully make an accurate temporary mark under the TDC mark on the tab onto the balancer.
Repeat this rotating CCW. Now you'll have TWO temporary marks, and true TDC will be 1/2 way between, and if the original mark is accurate, that is where it will be
=================================================
So far as your distributor timing, remember that a BB/ RB distributor rotates LEFT, or CCW, so the rotor should be APPROACHING the corner of the plug tower as it rotates CCW.
Do NOT "static time" the engine at TDC, but rather "where you want" intitial timing to be. I always set for at least 10*, a hot cam can handle a lot more, 15-20 BTC
Bring the marks up, using your "finger in the hole" to feel compression, or if one valve cover is off, you can look at the no1 or no6 valves and see which pair is "both closed" (ready to fire) or "both open" (opposite cylinder firing)
If you have points, rotate the dist CCW (retard) a ways, then slowly BACK CW (advance) until the points JUST open with a voltmeter, lamp, or ohmeter. At this point, the rotor should be right at the plug tower, and IT SHOULD RUN
If you have breakerless, rotate retard, then slowly back advance until the reluctor is pretty much centered in the pickup coil. Should start and run with no fuss.
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