440 headers glowing at idle
440 headers glowing at idle
Grettings,
I know this has been talked about 600 times but I am at a loss. I have a bone stock 440 motor home engine in a 66 charger with summit racing headers. Headers on the passenger side glow at idle. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws and messed with timing a million times with no luck. Compression is around 140 PSI in all cylinders. Timing is 15 degrees initial and it runs like garbage if I advance anymore than that. Headers will glow at idle after 5 minutes of running. It has a Carter Avs that is about to become a doorstop. Appreciate any help.
”forgot to mention that I did install summit racing Mopar electronic ignition orange box”” ground is good to it btw.
I know this has been talked about 600 times but I am at a loss. I have a bone stock 440 motor home engine in a 66 charger with summit racing headers. Headers on the passenger side glow at idle. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws and messed with timing a million times with no luck. Compression is around 140 PSI in all cylinders. Timing is 15 degrees initial and it runs like garbage if I advance anymore than that. Headers will glow at idle after 5 minutes of running. It has a Carter Avs that is about to become a doorstop. Appreciate any help.
”forgot to mention that I did install summit racing Mopar electronic ignition orange box”” ground is good to it btw.
Last edited by Jamessiegel; Aug 25, 2021 at 11:26 AM.
James -
You said only the passenger side was glowing.
Last test would be an IR thermometer to see how the left side compares to the right (at the exit port).
If the temps on each side are close, there's a problem with the headers, the the passenger side is way hotter, there's a flow problem somewhere.
*also is there a difference front to back?
Archer
You said only the passenger side was glowing.
Last test would be an IR thermometer to see how the left side compares to the right (at the exit port).
If the temps on each side are close, there's a problem with the headers, the the passenger side is way hotter, there's a flow problem somewhere.
*also is there a difference front to back?
Archer
James -
You said only the passenger side was glowing.
Last test would be an IR thermometer to see how the left side compares to the right (at the exit port).
If the temps on each side are close, there's a problem with the headers, the the passenger side is way hotter, there's a flow problem somewhere.
*also is there a difference front to back?
Archer
You said only the passenger side was glowing.
Last test would be an IR thermometer to see how the left side compares to the right (at the exit port).
If the temps on each side are close, there's a problem with the headers, the the passenger side is way hotter, there's a flow problem somewhere.
*also is there a difference front to back?
Archer
James -
Doubt detonation is happening in the headers.
How was the temp after 5 min, 10 mins? Did itr equalize?
Like I said, it's a flow problem, but flow could mean anything from air flow (anywhere from the intake to the tail pipe) to fuel, or a water / coolant problem in a water jacket.
Start with the easiest, is exhaust flow of equal strength on both sides? If not, run it open headers and see if that fixes anything.
Use the IT gun to follow the water jackets and look for an abrupt change. If there is, a tear down is in order.
See if you're your getting the same or different fuel flow from both sides of the carb (you probably are IF ALL the plugs looked the same).
Last resort.
One last thing to completely rule out the headers. When cold, tap them near the inlets and listen for differences in sound.
If you can weld, drilling a small hole on opposing tubes to check thickness might be in order.
Just curious, single or dual plane intake?
It's gonna take some detective work.
Archer
Doubt detonation is happening in the headers.
How was the temp after 5 min, 10 mins? Did itr equalize?
Like I said, it's a flow problem, but flow could mean anything from air flow (anywhere from the intake to the tail pipe) to fuel, or a water / coolant problem in a water jacket.
Start with the easiest, is exhaust flow of equal strength on both sides? If not, run it open headers and see if that fixes anything.
Use the IT gun to follow the water jackets and look for an abrupt change. If there is, a tear down is in order.
See if you're your getting the same or different fuel flow from both sides of the carb (you probably are IF ALL the plugs looked the same).
Last resort.
One last thing to completely rule out the headers. When cold, tap them near the inlets and listen for differences in sound.
If you can weld, drilling a small hole on opposing tubes to check thickness might be in order.
Just curious, single or dual plane intake?
It's gonna take some detective work.
Archer
SK -
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
SK -
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
James -
Possible, but what manifold and there would have to be vacuum leaks on one side of the manifold/valley tray.
If he screwed up the installation, that leak could cause one side to run lean.
Usually, there'll be a whistling sound sooner or later. (Benn there, done that...)
While running, spraying that side with water will give an rpm change.
DON"T TRY THAT WHEN THE HEADERS ARE RED HOT.
Archer
Possible, but what manifold and there would have to be vacuum leaks on one side of the manifold/valley tray.
If he screwed up the installation, that leak could cause one side to run lean.
Usually, there'll be a whistling sound sooner or later. (Benn there, done that...)
While running, spraying that side with water will give an rpm change.
DON"T TRY THAT WHEN THE HEADERS ARE RED HOT.
Archer
SK -
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
Those would be fine would be fine, except it's at idle and it's a one side only thing.
Bob -
Are you thinking a head conduction thing? That might happen but (I assume) to all four tubes on one side?
Still going with some sort of flow problem.
James -
Keep us posted, still scratching my head.
Archer
I have never heard a header drone.. I'm still trying to get my head around that. They normally leak or sound tinny. A drone is more of a muffler or oversize use of Exhaust tubing.
Last edited by RacerHog; Aug 27, 2021 at 01:39 PM.
Alright guys, still no success. So here is what I’m thinking. Headers are 18g. I think the original 600Cfm carb is not letting enough air in, causing a rich running condition. Plugs are darkish. The thinner headers need more air.
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